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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/99345-ugly-betch-new-episode-cfl-rehab-new-ish-build-thread.html)

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 04:04 PM

Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread.
 
So, since I am bored as hell waiting on Hot Dog to paint my CFL, I found this;

I got it for under $10K, its an Ugly Betch and needs some help but I think I can get it to where it needs to be with a little love and less ca$h, because I have no money after my other CFL build, bwaa hahaha....

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1102.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1103.jpg

Ooooh... what's that sexy V-twin in the background, hmmmm?

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 04:33 PM

Ok, I'll give you the pro's before the cons;
It has PM Controls and brakes, nice.
80" Evo crate motor, blue-print build (I'll post the build sheet when I scan it). Solid, runs, no worries. 6K miles.
The tank is not the small P-nut, its just like the one Greg Westbury tunneled and Frisco'd for my other CFL, just over 3 gallons. However, see cons below...
I guess the best part is it is already Titled and Registered so I got now worries or hassles on that end.

Ok, here's the cons;
The front end has zero degrees on the trees. A shame too because they are the really sweet Death Dealer style trees with Torpedo sliders, 4" over tubes. If it was 5 degrees and 8 over I'd leave it that way.
The tank has issues, look at the petcock... ugly. Big flat spot in the top of the tank (expected), the weld around the gas cap is horrible. Worst of all, the bottom is a mess. The mounts are too far forward which makes the tank sit about 2 inches too far back than what I'd like. The welds on the bottom are dog vomit.
The rear fender is really interesting for what is right and for what is wrong. I think the front side should go all the way down to the lower tube. You can't fix that because of the way the struts are mounted. The struts are really solid, look at how they are molded in, sweet. I'm on the fence about ditching this fender all together and going with a B'Cool.
I was going to change the oil bag/batt box to the regular straight oil bag set up, but I think I like it the way it is. All the electronics are in there, etc. I was going to use a seat suspension set up on this bike the same as my other CFL, the air-shock linkage... but I'm thinking regular seat springs now. BTW, the seat isn't even mounted.

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 04:34 PM

More pics...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1104.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1105.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1106.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1108.jpg

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 04:36 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1109.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1110.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1112.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...B/IMG_1113.jpg

300build 11-19-2012 04:41 PM

ur right...that is one ugly ass motorcycle

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 04:42 PM

I'm on the fence about the rear fender... replace it or keep it? Not so sure yet.

What I know right now is this;

I'll ditch the front fender and go with 6 over springer from Chassis Design.
The tank needs a flat bottom and adjusted mounts with a proper Frisco and petcock.
The battery box is a mess, a new one is coming from Chassis Design.

New paint at the end of the day, but more stuff will have to be sorted out. For now I'm just going to mob around on it as is until I finish my other CFL, then I can get to work on this one.

Stay tuned.

06 pitbull 11-19-2012 05:08 PM

I think its cool... finnish the tank & ride it....

flysocal77 11-19-2012 06:24 PM

I would paint the tank, mount the seat and ride the shit out of it. I like the paint color a lot, it would be a shame to chop the fender and ruin the paint. Although you may have no choice if you have to weld tabs for the seat. Maybe get a danny gray seat and avoid any welding? I'm pretty sure they have CFL pan molds and could do it all for around $500 If you live in socal just drop off the bike for a perfect molded fit.

Ride the bike before you change the front end, you might be happy and the stance looks good as is. I know there is a lot on this bike you wouldn't have done if you built it but you bought it so obviously you like it and if you start changing everything you might as well have started with a project that wasn't so far along. Whatever you decide to do, I'm tuned in.

Lots of cool bits on this bike, I'm running a pulley on my sporty build.

jsp 11-19-2012 06:45 PM

The seat area has been changed

METAL SHOP 11-19-2012 07:24 PM

Wow that tank is bad!!!!!

250CFL 11-19-2012 07:52 PM

It is all good and it can/will be a nice bike however, you should have made me a cash $$ offer on mine bro. I think you would have come out WAY ahead....

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 250CFL (Post 1204808)
It is all good and it can/will be a nice bike however, you should have made me a cash $$ offer on mine bro. I think you would have come out WAY ahead....

Didn't know you were selling yours... You would have taken less than 10K for it?

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1204800)
I would paint the tank, mount the seat and ride the shit out of it. I like the paint color a lot, it would be a shame to chop the fender and ruin the paint. Although you may have no choice if you have to weld tabs for the seat. Maybe get a danny gray seat and avoid any welding? I'm pretty sure they have CFL pan molds and could do it all for around $500 If you live in socal just drop off the bike for a perfect molded fit.

Ride the bike before you change the front end, you might be happy and the stance looks good as is. I know there is a lot on this bike you wouldn't have done if you built it but you bought it so obviously you like it and if you start changing everything you might as well have started with a project that wasn't so far along. Whatever you decide to do, I'm tuned in.

Lots of cool bits on this bike, I'm running a pulley on my sporty build.

Welding is unavoidable for more reasons than just the seat... That battery box is garbage and you should see the mash of contaminated mig welds on the bottom brackets... total garbage that needs to be gutted and a proper battery box mounting plate put in. The particular battery in this one is obviously too tall, the box is mounted 3/4 inch or so lower than if it had a WCC battery plate. Otherwise the paint is already trashed in many places, the pictures don't pick it up. The rear fender has a bunch of deep scratches, plus rubbing and other flaking all over the frame.
But yes, for the moment I'm going to use bolt-on seat spring bungs and weld a Biltwell seat pivot mount on, and just ride the shit out of it the way it is.

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by METAL SHOP (Post 1204804)
Wow that tank is bad!!!!!

Yes it is... But I don't have $700 right now for the Death Dealer Clone Tank... unless you think you could take this tank in on trade plus cash?

CloudDiver 11-19-2012 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsp (Post 1204802)
The seat area has been changed

Yup, they did... Precision did the work, I have a copy of the invoice. $5200 of work from the fender struts to changing the seat area as you noticed. The bike originally had a molded type seat pan which is why there is still velcro on the fender. I'm not sure what happened to that seat and the tank on the bike now is not the one PMFR had originally made.
I was pretty suspicious of any changes that were made, but I am familiar with PMFR parts and drag racing frames. If you can trust anyone to change up a CFL frame outside of the LBC, its these guys. Story is it all got started because the oil tank/battery box didn't fit right and the pulley wouldn't clear the frame rail, although we all know it is supposed to clear a pulley on a 180 tire... Well, thats not always true especially when I think back to how jacked up my own oil bag was on my CFL.

HellionsMC 11-19-2012 11:27 PM

The bike does have potential, but I think it would need a lot of work to get it to that point and you'll probably end up spending as much as you would have on a frame-up budget build. Regardless, will be interesting to see what direction you go with it.

Aussiechop 11-20-2012 04:04 AM

I'd love to have that sitting in my garage, I'd love to fuck with it!

250CFL 11-20-2012 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1204814)
Didn't know you were selling yours... You would have taken less than 10K for it?

Not less than $10k but I bet when you get done it would have been a wash. Sometimes it is the process of getting there and the challenge any way. Have fun with the bike and ride the crap out of it. Nothing like having one as a beater and one to pamper.

CloudDiver 11-20-2012 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellionsMC (Post 1204827)
The bike does have potential, but I think it would need a lot of work to get it to that point and you'll probably end up spending as much as you would have on a frame-up budget build. Regardless, will be interesting to see what direction you go with it.

Hellions & CFL; points well said. Exactly what I had in mind when I decided to buy the bike. I want to keep the bells and whistles cost as low as possible. Trying to modify things like the rear fender and tank could be more frustration than they are worth vs. just buying a new parts. I think I can get a few bucks back on selling the front end and the fenders.

I'm pretty firm in my plan to go with the Chassis Design Springer in 6 over. If you haven't seen it check it out on eBay, its not on his web site yet.

The tank would cost me at least 500 to modify, so I think I'd be better off just buying a new one. I'm going to check with my local guys here in AZ, Evolution Customs, see what they will ask for to do a flat bottom and mounts. Otherwise, I'll get with Metal Shop.

I'm willing to see what I can do with the rear fender, but going with a B'Cool would be $400 and much less hassle. I can sell the fenders off the bike as is and not end up with too much out of pocket.

Most of the the things on the frame that need welding or re-work is just my sweat equity, and I have plenty of spare bungs and mounting tabs hanging around. now I'm really happy I got that Miller TIG last spring, it will come in very handy.

When I get the Springer front end I'll have to also get a PM springer brake which are not cheap, but I can sell the PM 4 piston on the front. I won't get much for it but its in good shape.

I want to put a 6 speed gear set in and so far the best deal I can find is the PRIMO Rivera gear set. Quality and reliability for around $900. Also a BDL 2 inch belt drive, but these two things are lowest on the list until I get the overall look of the bike right.

I was going to ditch the mini-apes and go with Chassis Design Super Bars, but after riding it a bit I kind of like the mini apes... I'll ride it a bunch more and see how much my arms hurt before I make up my mind.

I thought about going with a hydraulic clutch master which would also require a hydraulic clutch cylinder on the tranny, both pricey PM parts. I'll stick with the manual pull set up for now and shop around for killer deals... If I can't get close-out prices I won't bother. Plus I'd have to buy a new clutch cable too.

I know many people look at these projects as gain vs. loss issue over the purchase investment... That is forefront in my mind and plans, but you also have to remember the fun factor. I like doing the work and investing my sweat in the process, to me that's the point of wrenching on choppers.

So, after what I might be able to sell some of the parts for I'm hoping I can get this done for less than $2500 out of pocket (not including paint or the 6 speed). Let's see how close I can get to that over the next year. For now I'll ride the piss out of it the way it is and I have another CFL to finish once the paint is done.

CloudDiver 11-20-2012 09:19 AM

Oh yeah, 3 inch black springs for $15 from ebay and bolt-on spring mounts are on the way from Speed Dealer... I have a Biltwell seat pivot and their new-style cast mount on hand to weld on next week. I want to wait until the springs and mounts get here to set the seat position just right. The paint around the weld will get get ground off and more paint will get toasted near the bead, but who gives a shit? I see a small can of Rustoleum fire-engine red in the near future... haha!

CloudDiver 11-20-2012 09:37 AM

Nice and Cheap possiblity for Springer front brake...
 
I found this on eBay just now;

Custom Springer Front Brake Caliper Bracket Left Right 11 5" Rotor Polished | eBay

If this works I can use my existing 4 piston front PM caliper with this bracket... Not bad for $120 and not having to buy a new caliper. Best news is this shop is right down the road from my house in AZ so I can swing by on the bike and make sure it will work before I buy it.

Miamio96 11-20-2012 12:18 PM

What is their ebay name?

CloudDiver 11-20-2012 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miamio96 (Post 1204877)
What is their ebay name?

Click on the link, the seller ID is on the left. It's Bob's Cycle Supply in Phoenix, AZ... not to be confused with Bob's Used Cycles, they get mad when you call looking for the other shop!

Miamio96 11-20-2012 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1204890)
Click on the link, the seller ID is on the left. It's Bob's Cycle Supply in Phoenix, AZ... not to be confused with Bob's Used Cycles, they get mad when you call looking for the other shop!

Not seeing the chasis design company springer....

CloudDiver 11-20-2012 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Miamio96 (Post 1204913)
Not seeing the chasis design company springer....

Oh! I thought you were asking about the springer brake bracket from the previous post... Here is a link to the Chassis Design Springer front end;
Harley Chopper Bobber Mid Glide Springer Front End USA Made | eBay

Miamio96 11-21-2012 08:44 PM

That is sweet looking! thanks for sharing!

WTCHOP 11-21-2012 09:37 PM

great score man. gonna be cool.

CloudDiver 11-25-2012 12:49 PM

Looking for Engine hop-up suggestions
 
I want to get some more power out of the HD 80.
Seems like I can go two ways;
Full re-build involving bore to 96, or keep it at 80 and get some more power out of 42mm Mikuni and a better Cam profile...

I'm leaning toward the 2nd option to keep costs down and retain the reliability of the 80" displacement.
I've been told the 80 won't handle a 6 speed gear set so I would need a pulley with fewer teeth and some more power from the mill.

I'll post the build sheet on the motor when I can scan it into a jpeg image at work, but I am looking for any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:20 PM

Update.. I've been neglecting this for awhile, so here are some pics from mounting the seat and springs. I did this over a month ago, then I had to get on the road for work traveling to 3 different power plants in California and I was gone all the way up the Christmas.

I had a Biltwell seat hinge handy with their new cast cro-moly pivot bung. I ordered a pair of black 3 inch seat springs ($16) and a pair of bolt-through spring seat from Speed Dealer Customs, 1-1/4” Frame Bolt on Seat Spring Mounts | Speed Dealer Customs
Speed Dealer seems a little more expensive for many things compared to other sources (for example compare the bung prices with Bung King), but for things like this I'm pretty happy, the quality is top notch.

Anyway, below are the pics... pretty simple job but remember I'm going through paint and welding on a finished(ish) bike.

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:21 PM

After dry fitting the seat position I marked where I had to sand away paint...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1136.jpg

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:23 PM

Holding everything square I tacked the pivot into place. Notice how I tacked a nail set to the the top corner of the bare metal as my ground. This was vital since there was no other bare metal on the frame to ground to.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1137.jpg

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:27 PM

And welding the pivot all the way around... BTW, I had to flatten the bottom of the mount which is normally set up for tubes. You'll notice how the back end of my back-bone over the seat post is flattened out. This was done (among other frame mods) by Precision Metal Fab, probably because this bike once had a molded seat pan.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1139.jpg

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:30 PM

And here with springs and spring mounts bolted in... I didn't take any pictures of that part, but you get the idea. When I blast this old paint off the frame I will weld the top part of the spring mounts and close up the hole on the bottom of the tube.

See the electrical mess under the seat? I'm going to clean that up later by moving the ignition coils out to the motor mount which will leave way more room, then fab a cover plate for the battery box, an idea that came from flysocal77's build. Check out his Living Room build thread and see the finished oil tank painted by Hot Dog, killer.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1140.jpg

CloudDiver 12-31-2012 12:42 PM

Before I mentioned I was going to use the new Chassis Designs springer front end. Unfortunately he only makes that in a mid-glide, and my front wheel is a wide glide. I have no intention of changing wheels, not a justifiable cost for this bike so I decided to go with a Twisted Choppers Wide Wishbone Springer; https://twistedchoppers.com/shop/twi...one-springer/#

I really like Chassis Design stuff, but after looking at the Twisted Choppers Springer many times I actually like it a little better for this bike. I ordered it last week and should have it about mid-January. I got the front caliper mount from Bob's in Phoenix, AZ. I discovered there was a little misleading info in the product details... he claims it works with any aftermarket 4 piston brake caliper with 3.5 inch mounts. Yes, it will... as long as it is a REAR caliper with the dog ears at the bottom. A left front PM caliper will NOT work. So now I gotta buy a rear caliper... Anyone want a chrome PM front left caliper?

CloudDiver 01-02-2013 11:08 AM

2 into 1 Exhaust
 
To get the power I want out of the 80" Evo I really need to go with a 2-1 Exhaust. I've been looking all over the place for the right set and I'm not happy with most on the market because they are all low-mount. An RSD tracker is an option but I'm not lot looking to spend a grip.

After the last WCC 2 into 1 ended this weekend on eBay for $790 I decided I might try to modify my existing pipes since they are high mount to start with. I checked Megs Exhaust Warehouse-Exhaust Systems, Exhaust Collectors, Components, Exhaust Conical, Mufflers, Exhaust Tips ; I knew about this website before but forgot they had motorcycle mufflers and collectors.

So all I need is a muffler and 2-1 collector and Shazam, 2-1 pipes. Question is, if I weld the components together I will a one piece exhaust. Will that still be able to mount/dismount to the Evo motor? Does the CFl frame get in the way?

I'm trying to see if I can weld the collector to the muffler and have the headers slip fit into the collector, then use SS clamps. That would keep it a 3 piece set up but I'm not sure the O.D. and I.D. of the muffler/collector/headers will all match up to do that.

Aussiechop 01-03-2013 03:55 AM

looking good man.

CloudDiver 01-03-2013 12:00 PM

OK, it's settled... I am building my own 2 into 1 high mount exhaust for this bike by using the orginal headers. I just ordered a 12 inch reverse cone muffler, 2.25 inch inlet from Cone Engineering. Then I'll have a 2-1 merge collector made by either Tube Bending & Fabrication - Columbia River Mandrel Bending or SPD :: Exhaust Collectors.

A 'stock' 2-1 collector (about $70) might have center-line that is too tight, so I'll probably have a custom center-line made for my 1.75" O.D. headers with .5 inch gap between making my merge collector center-line 2.25". The inlets will be slip-fit for the headers and if I send the muffler to them they can weld it onto the collector for $10. The muffler and collector will be 304 stainless, my headers are mild steel.

Also, I'm going to try to bring the front cylinder pipe in closer by adding 2 bends. the black that is on the pipes now is just high-temp paint, no big loss to blast that off. I also got brackets for the collector & head pipes that will go on the back to bolt them together. I'll probably use round bar to make a custom support bracket off the back of the collector.

If this works out I'll probably make a 2-1 for the 113 S&S on my other CFL too, probably a 2.5 inch inlet/outlet on that muffler. I just picked up a very well used and blued set of Hell-Bents yesterday from CL for $200... Blashphemy or not, if I can get the curves right I may modify those into the 2 into 1... crazy!

CloudDiver 01-06-2013 11:59 AM

Fitting up new(ish) gas tank
 
I got this gas tank from my local custom shop in Phoenix, Evolution Customs. It had been damaged, a dent on the right side that they repaired. It has been modified some, the last two or o inches has been bobbed off, and there are two fangs or notches (for lack of a better term on the front bottom corners. I liked it because it is a little shorter than a standard Villain tank and it has correct flat bottom with recessed mounts. Best of all, it was $150!
Anyway, I wasn't sure if I would like it on this bike because I was trying to keep it an old school look to go along with the spoke wheels. I was really wanting to stick with the Sporty King tank style, but don't want to pay $500 for a new one since the existing one is garbage.

I took the sporty tank off for a minute just to see how this tank will look;

It isn't sitting right because the old tank tabs don't line up, but you get the idea.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1183.jpg

This is what seals the deal, I like this view...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1184.jpg

CloudDiver 01-06-2013 12:06 PM

I wanted to stay old school with the sporty tank, but I think with the Springer I have coming from Twisted Choppers and the 2 into 1 exhaust I am making it will still have that sort of 'New Old School' feel that is WCC to me, or at least the way I see it. I'm happy with using this tank, especially since I wanted to avoid high $$$ parts.
Tom at Evolution suggested Nickel plating the tank inside and out, and told me about a local plater who will do it for a fair price. This isn't a finish, obviously because of the dent, but helps ensure that any micro pinholes or other things inside the tank won't lead to leaks, plus corrosion resistance from the inside out.
I'll take some more pics of the tank and post below so you can better see the mods I mentioned above.

CloudDiver 01-06-2013 12:18 PM

Some detail shots of the mods to the tank;

The bobbed tail...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1186.jpg

Notches on bottom front corners...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1187.jpg

The bottom mounts...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1189.jpg

Front profile...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_1188.jpg


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