Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread.

[beastlightnbs]

Looks fantastic Cloud, nice fuckin work man.

[CloudDiver]

Originally Posted by pop 28

looks great!! just not sure on the tire and fender space...for me i like seeing more tighter to the tire...all and all good work

Yeah, I hear ya on that. The 530 chain I'm using for spacing gives 5/8 of space between the fender and tire. For some people that's too much. I've seen as little as 1/4" on many chops, but that scares me because Metzler tires grow when they get warm, I have heard up to .20", so if you are at .25" to start you run the risk of rubbing.
I made a 1.5" lip that will line the iside of the fender on the back, 1" lip down front and also around the belt cut-out. I decided to add those in after the fender is mounted so it will visually close up that gap a little. When I get there I'll show before and after shots.

[TWOWHLSIRVIVR]

I like it man!

[CloudDiver]

Got a few things done Wednesday after work... I thought I would skip all the 'How To' posts on this build, but I figure why not in case people are wondering for their own build.

So a lot of pics will follow; but just to sum up I only did a few things...

I mounted the two bungs on the right side, the left will be later because I just got the longer 2 inch bung today. I'll show my method of coping and a new trick for getting the drill bit dead on.

I also tack welded the seat springs bungs to the cross bar, but I wanted to cope them because I thought they were too tall.

[CloudDiver]

Here is how I cope the bungs.

I mark the line on the bung exactly where it will sit on the peak of the tube... notice it is off center.


Then I score a line with the hack saw. This helps guide the file straight.


I start with a small round file first.


Then I finish with the round back file. The cope does not have to be super deep. This is enough to give me much better contact area and I don't have to pull the tungsten way out on the torch to get into the recess. The bung sits steady on the tube when clamped. The bung with the hole in the end is my drill guide. That bung got a little messed up on the last build, so I coped it the same as the others and drilled through with a 5/16th bit.

[CloudDiver]

First thing I do when setting up the final position of the fender and tacking on bungs is make sure the bike is sitting level. I use 4x6 blocks screwed to small pieces of 1/2" plywood, this sets the bike up just enough for the rear wheel to be 1/2" off the table lift. Makes it easy to get the rear wheel in and out. I use regular hardware store wood shims to tweak the level bubble.

[CloudDiver]

Here is the drill guide bung set in place with the Stronghand Tools Pipe Clamp.



Leaves me with a perfect drill start point dead center in the skirt. the idea is after I take the fender off and drill the 3/8 hole I can bolt the bung on and set it back in the frame and the bungs should land right where they are supposed to go and rest on the coped side.

[CloudDiver]

Before I weld these bungs in I clean the the tube with a strip of 80 grit, and I clean the bungs with a Scotch-Brite pad and a Phosphate Degreaser/De-scaler/Rust remover from Industrial Metal Supply. You can see the difference from flash rusted and dirty to clean and ready to weld. In the pic it looks like there is still some rust in the pitting, but I sprayed and cleaned 2 more times after I took this pic.

[CloudDiver]

I'm doing all my tack welds with TIG now, not fucking around with the MIG anymore. It takes more time to set up but I have way more control over the arc and no mess to clean up.

[CloudDiver]

Finished the outside weld of the strut tabs so I don't risk breaking a tack if I put too much stress on one by accident.

[CloudDiver]

Here is the seat spring bung before... over 1/2" tall.



So I coped the shit out of them to get then both down to about .20". I had them both gently squeezed by the post in the vice and ran the coarse round back file in the pre-set cope... took fucking forever. I thought I had a pic of them both welded in-line but I guess I don't. This pic shows how short I got the base.

[CloudDiver]

That's it... a whole lotta pics for welding on 4 bungs, haha!

Well, I got my Chassis Design Co. kick-stand in the mail today along with a 2 inch 3/8 bullet bung to go on the right side. So this weekend I'll finish up the fender mounting and weld on the kick stand mount.
When that stuff is done I'll be ready to pull the engine so it can go in for a top-end rebuild. I just need new gaskets but since it has to come apart it will go for a refresher polish. I might have the cylinders honed and new rings put in if it's needed.
The only welding left after this weekend will be re-mounting the gas tank tabs and setting the bung for the front brake bracket arm. i'll probably have the frame at chrome a week from Monday!

So with all that said, AZ Bike Week starts in about 7 weeks. I'm not going to set that as a deadline but its looking like a possibility...

[HellionsMC]

Nice fabrication pics, love those pipe pliers. Putting that one on my shopping list.

[flysocal77]

Originally Posted by CloudDiver

That's it... a whole lotta pics for welding on 4 bungs, haha!

Well, I got my Chassis Design Co. kick-stand in the mail today along with a 2 inch 3/8 bullet bung to go on the right side. So this weekend I'll finish up the fender mounting and weld on the kick stand mount.
When that stuff is done I'll be ready to pull the engine so it can go in for a top-end rebuild. I just need new gaskets but since it has to come apart it will go for a refresher polish. I might have the cylinders honed and new rings put in if it's needed.
The only welding left after this weekend will be re-mounting the gas tank tabs and setting the bung for the front brake bracket arm. i'll probably have the frame at chrome a week from Monday!

So with all that said, AZ Bike Week starts in about 7 weeks. I'm not going to set that as a deadline but its looking like a possibility...

Did you notice your Chassis Design kickstand had a stainless steal insert. With the stainless ball rubbing against aluminum after a while the aluminum wears a bit and the ball is loose and will fall out. The fix was this stainless insert to so the ball rubs against a much harder material. Another flaw that Jesse knows about but won't fix. Just stamp a Maltese cross on it and sell it for 400.

[flysocal77]

This is the new design with a stainless insert. Hope you got this one.