Club Chopper Forums

Club Chopper Forums (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/)
-   West Coast Chopper Builds (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/)
-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/99345-ugly-betch-new-episode-cfl-rehab-new-ish-build-thread.html)

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:25 PM

A little peek at the mill...

Polished the bottom end by hand (what a bee-otch!) Jugs and heads went to a polishing shop.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6ae316b1.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:27 PM

Intake Valves were Diiiirrrttty... running too rich.

I soaked them in CLR over night and got all that crap off, then forgot to take a pic after it was clean, doh!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psf09995bc.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:30 PM

Engine will be back together mid next week, about the same time the frame and small parts are back from Nickel... I put the second coat of Red-Kote in the tank tonight and it goes to body with the fender tomorrow. Some very light filler in a few places and epoxy primer is all they need.

Looks like this weekend will be pretty low-activity. Good, I need the rest!

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:37 PM

Oh, and one more thing...

Just because I fucking love this... but where oh where is it gonna go?

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psa120aa2f.jpg

1badHD 03-22-2013 06:49 AM

Sweet!! I really like the direction you are going with this build.

Aussiechop 03-25-2013 04:32 AM

Damn cool man, love your progress.

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 06:30 PM

Over the last week I've gotten some parts back from finishing; take a look.

Some of the Powder Coat, found a way better guy who does awesome work, very tough powder.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psbfa83b32.jpg

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 06:32 PM

Machine shop came back with the do-over on the rear brake lever and also did up the top motor mount. These are the last two things that will go to Powder Coat in the morning;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps45cfd91a.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88ff1042.jpg

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 06:35 PM

I also got all the small parts back from Nickel, the frame will be ready wednesday or maybe tomorrow. I have the rocker arms and the top tree back for the Springer and I should be putting it back together but I took everything out to the shop in Buckeye this weekend and I really don't feel like making the drive right now, its grid lock going west on the 10 at this hour... Doh!

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 10:28 PM

I'm a little fucking disturbed right now... As far as I can tell from azbikeweek.com there is no 'general' bike show/competition, all they are doing is 'Baddest Bagger in the West'.... Well fuck, if that's the case I'm going to slap a saddle bag on the left side and show them what the fuck is up!

Fuckin baggers!... I had a nice ass Road King from 07 to the spring of 12... I'm fucking over it. Shit, maybe I should have kept that bitch and entered two bikes!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88de62cb.jpg

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 10:28 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pse0762234.jpg

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 10:29 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psd633ccc7.jpg

CloudDiver 03-25-2013 10:30 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps94af1ae9.jpg

CloudDiver 03-26-2013 10:43 AM

Looking at things seriously...
 
I'm taking a good hard look at my work schedule over the next few weeks along with cash I have available for the build and bills I have to pay...

I really wanted to have this done for AZ Bike Week, to hell with the bike show, just to be able to ride it.
Its going to cost me at least $500 to register this thing, and thats only if the DMV does not screw me over and make me do the full 3 ring circus even if this is already a titled bike. I have to keep in mind that my Truck and other bikes come up for renewal in May and that usually runs me about $500 per year.
The only I have left to buy parts wise is the Brembo hand controls and Banjo fittings, I already have 12 ft of brake line but might need 3 ft more for the rear brake. I also have to pay $300 for the body work/primer on the tank and fender when they are ready, probably tomorrow.

So, all that taken into consideration, I don't think Bike Week is worth killing myself over time wise, and even worse spending money I don't have and risking going broke. Better off taking my time on the assembly, going to DMV late next month with cash in hand and not worries about a schedule to keep.

Fuck... maybe I'm just feeling shitty because I'm tired as hell and trying to assemble, test fire, dyno, and ride a bike in 8 days is pretty unrealistic at this point. I think recognizing that if you are biting off more than you can chew before it happens will keep you from choking :LOL:

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 03-28-2013 08:16 PM

Do the body work prep yourself!

CloudDiver 03-29-2013 10:11 AM

Game On mother-fuckers... Game On...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7291ac8b.jpg

CloudDiver 03-30-2013 12:44 PM

Transmission studs too short...
 
Trying to decide what to do in the next few hours.

When they moved the transmission mounts over 3/4 inch to the left they welded the old slots shut and made new ones, but they are not counter-bored. The problem with that is that the transmission studs aren't long enough to grab enough thread.

I went down to the hardware store and the only thing I could get are 7/16 coarse thread automotive grade 8 studs. The trans studs are 7/16-14 x .5" and step to 3/8-24 x .75"

I already know the 7/16 studs will still slip through the trans plate slots. All I have to do is trim both ends to the right length and should be good to go.

I can order ARP studs that are the correct 7/16-14 to 3/8-24 for about $40, probably have them Tuesday. I guess I just need to decide if the 7/16 studs will cause any kind of alignment issues or not. I'm pretty certain my shims wouldn't fit...

I have a lot of work to do before i lock down the transmission... So I guess i can think about it. In the long run if I have enough other stuff to do between now and Tuesday (or Wednesday) I think I can hold off and order what is 'stock correct', only that the 3/8-24 side will be just .25 longer.

pop 28 03-30-2013 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1217340)
Trying to decide what to do in the next few hours.

When they moved the transmission mounts over 3/4 inch to the left they welded the old slots shut and made new ones, but they are not counter-bored. The problem with that is that the transmission studs aren't long enough to grab enough thread.

I went down to the hardware store and the only thing I could get are 7/16 coarse thread automotive grade 8 studs. The trans studs are 7/16-14 x .5" and step to 3/8-24 x .75"

I already know the 7/16 studs will still slip through the trans plate slots. All I have to do is trim both ends to the right length and should be good to go.

I can order ARP studs that are the correct 7/16-14 to 3/8-24 for about $40, probably have them Tuesday. I guess I just need to decide if the 7/16 studs will cause any kind of alignment issues or not. I'm pretty certain my shims wouldn't fit...

I have a lot of work to do before i lock down the transmission... So I guess i can think about it. In the long run if I have enough other stuff to do between now and Tuesday (or Wednesday) I think I can hold off and order what is 'stock correct', only that the 3/8-24 side will be just .25 longer.

go ahead and finish other areas of the bike... good move on ordering the longer studs. if you didn't it would just haunt you when its time to line things up...

CloudDiver 03-30-2013 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pop 28 (Post 1217351)
go ahead and finish other areas of the bike... good move on ordering the longer studs. if you didn't it would just haunt you when its time to line things up...

Yup... the day is winding down and I am still messing with electrical stuff (that I hope to finish tonight). i have so many other things to do that replacing the trans studs can wait until I get the new ones Tuesday or even Wednesday.

CloudDiver 03-31-2013 01:02 AM

Well, to hell with Bike week... I still need a few parts, short on cash, and now I'm having real problems threading the last electrical run through the back-bone. Even if I had every day to work over the next week and half I don't think it'll happen.

I need to step back, take a breath, and re-think this... I'm just gonna take take my time, there will be other bike events. Fuck.

CloudDiver 03-31-2013 10:28 AM

Need some electrical info...
 
Ok, before I can go any further I have to get one last run of 4 wires from the hole at the rear of the backbone up to and out the middle hole just behind the motor mount, but I have no room!

The wires coming up the seat tube have the white ignition signal, brown for the tach (but going to an hour meter), black for the oil pressure, and green for VOES. Even with those the Volt Reg wire won't fit and I have to re-route that.

The 4 wires that need to go still where I have no room I mentioned first, the VOES wire needs to continue to Motor Mount, and then the Green Ignition, Red Accessory Power, and 2 other wires to the Pollack Marine Ignition switch.
I'm using some of the wiring from the Scooters Wire Harness kit, and some existing wire from the bikes components.

I need to to 2 things if I can;
- Back the harness down the seat tube and reduce the gauge of some of the wires to help make more room. I can do this by finding out what the minimum gauge I can use is on the Oil Pressure Switch wire and VOES signal wire?
- Also, when I run the last wire group to the ignition switch I need to use the minimum gauge allowable to make room. The green wire in the Scooters Wire kit for Ignition Switch to Starter if like 12 or 14 gauge. How far down in size can I go on that? Does that wire carry a lot of current or is just sending a signal to Starter Solenoid?

If I can reduce the wire sizes to make the wire runs tighter this won't work and I'll have to find alternate wire routing runs... Not happy abut that idea.

CloudDiver 03-31-2013 12:26 PM

Ok, reduced the ignition module loom that goes up the seat tube (took VOES wire out and smaller gauge on the oil pressure switch signal wire) and ran it back through, that gives me more room to run the set of wires to the ignition switch.
I only need the bare minimum gauge I can get away with and they should fit, so if anyone knows and can say for sure let me know and I might get these wires done!

pop 28 03-31-2013 04:04 PM

i can't help you on the starter wire gauge. i use a key on key off and a push button solenoid cover.. it simplifies the starter wiring, ever thing else is 18 gauge wire

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:50 AM

The story so far... in pictures.
 
Long weekend... Tackled the wiring issue; dominated that bitch. My happiness was short lived, the PM hydraulic clutch cover won't fit the Primo 6 Speed Trans, long story, more on that later...

I've done a lot of shit but neglected posting many pictures, so here is a re-cap from Friday through Sunday;

The frame in all it's Nickel Glory;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psc9b54fd4.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:51 AM

The plating makes my welds look damn good... It also makes any mistakes stick out like a sore thumb!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psebe26338.jpg

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psbac4d2e8.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:53 AM

Who ever said "All that Glitters is Not Gold" doesen't fucking have any...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psc6c04188.jpg

Yes, the Neck Badge is gold plated!

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:54 AM

The ignition module loom below the trans plate before I ran it up the seat tube, most of the terminations are complete. I'll add quick disconnects for the stop light pressure switch and a few other details later.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps472eeaa8.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:59 AM

This is where I got stuck, but figured it out using the 12 gauge wire for the ignition switch and what not... Anyway, the Ignition module loom comes up the seat tube and out, the ignition Switch loom goes in the back bone and out behind the motor mount, the headlight wires come all the way down the backbone and the the thick tube on the right is the hidden hydraulic clutch line... Tighter than a virgin's honey-pot, but it all fits and have just enough space to pull things back and fourth a little if I need slack.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3128bb55.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:01 AM

Throttle and headlight wires hidden in frame on left side. Throttle cable comes out right behind the motor mount straight to carb throttle body.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30890d80.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:01 AM

Same with the clutch line on the right;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pse3f36aae.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:02 AM

I'll put all the pics of this in the rust paint thread, but the tank and fender are cooking, this is a few hours after the patina reaction was started;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ab4c9f5.jpg

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:06 AM

This is how I left her; front end is on, motor and trans are in, wiring is about half done. Most of what is left is doing the terminations in the battery box, etc.

Before I go any further I need the new transmission studs... can't do anything else with the oil tank/battery box until the trans goes back into place. Also have to figure out the clutch slave problem.
To hell with bike week, I guess I'll be riding the Duc.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pscba4ae49.jpg

Aussiechop 04-01-2013 05:18 AM

Fuckin cool man, love your work, the tubes in the neck are a cool idea.

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussiechop (Post 1217541)
Fuckin cool man, love your work, the tubes in the neck are a cool idea.

I can't take credit for those, the bike came to me that way. My buddy Luke (another CFL owner) asked if I could run the throttle and brake lines in there. I wan't sure when he asked, so I looked into it. I knew that the banjo fittings would not pass through, but then I found Magnum Build Your Own Brake Line kits, they make it possible.

Magnum Shielding - Custom Harley Davidson Cables and Braided Brake Lines

Any bike I do in the future will probably use this method. Only draw back is that you cannot remove the clutch line once it is in place, but how often does the line itself fail? You can still replace the banjo fittings if anything goes wrong. Worst case, a whole new line plus fittings is about $75.

flysocal77 04-01-2013 10:56 AM

Looks like your gonna beat me on at least 1/2 bikes. The rust will look damn good on this bike since all the other parts are top quality and finish. Some hotdog stripes and clear coat and we have a winner. Shoot some close of pics of wire connectors, I need some ideas for my builds. Want to make everything easy to disconnect and not sure what to go with.

1badHD 04-01-2013 02:11 PM

Damn I love that frame!!! Lookin good man. Paint would look killer with some stripes and clear coat.

WCCrider 04-01-2013 05:05 PM

Beautiful!!!!!!!


Mark



.

ezriders66 04-02-2013 01:03 PM

Looking good!

CloudDiver 04-04-2013 11:32 AM

Rear axle clearance issues...
 
As expected the nickle plating added some thickness to the rear axle area, but maybe more than I anticipated.

We all would expect to have to remove paint but I didn't think I'd have to sand back the plating because it is thinner. So right now my rear brake bracket will not fit. My new Pulley spacer is on the way, it is 1 & 1/8" thick, which is .056" or 1.425 mm thinner than 30mm spacer I used in mock up.

I don't want to sand back the nickle but I may have to. The 1 & 1/8 spacer will move the wheel to the left 1.425 mm, which is needed, but won't change the pulley position. My belt is lightly rubbing the transmission, however I'm confident that when I replace the trans studs and get the drive line re-centered it will shift a little right and bring back the clearance I had during mock up. I'm about 80% confident right now it will all work out. My biggest worry is actually the belt clearing the fender cut-out. In mock up it cleared perfectly with a little more space than I needed, even considering paint. I was going to shave it another .15 but opted not to... now I wish I had. I'd hate to have to shave that fender cut-out after it has been nickle plated and painted, but I may have no choice.

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 04-07-2013 05:45 PM

When is HotDog sending back the tins?


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:52 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubchopper.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners or moderators. clubchopper.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you or have been given the expressed written consent to post. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). For full policy, please click the "CC policy" link. Thank you for visiting the clubchopper.com