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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/99345-ugly-betch-new-episode-cfl-rehab-new-ish-build-thread.html)

CloudDiver 03-01-2013 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pop 28 (Post 1214557)
black chrome.. a really a cool look

I really like black chrome... I asked around all the plating shops in Phoenix last year, but nobody wants to do it. Reason is they don't get enough work to have a tank dedicated for it.

pop 28 03-02-2013 04:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1214622)
I really like black chrome... I asked around all the plating shops in Phoenix last year, but nobody wants to do it. Reason is they don't get enough work to have a tank dedicated for it.

get a hold of these guys. Ive seen there chrome and its beautiful.. hope there close to you

Black Chrome Plating | Black Chrome Rims | Black Chrome Wheels | Classic Components:

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:41 PM

It was a hell of a busy weekend for me. I was hoping to be done with fabrication but I came up a little short. Still just a couple things left to do so they'll have to wait till next weekend. No big thing, I was pretty happy with what I got accomplished since Friday night.

Starting to set up the stop light/tag mount; The tag bracket came from Bung King. I had a few of the 'bullets' turned at a local machine shop from 1.25" round bar. Then two counter bore 3/8" bungs and two 3/8" bullet bungs also from Bung King.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0b73bd9e.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:43 PM

I made sure the frame was level again and used these magnet clamps from Strong Hand Tools to keep everything in place.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psce4212ae.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:47 PM

I used illustration board to make templates of the arms. Easier to figure out the angles and copes before cutting the steel. I didn't take enough pictures showing the paper board arms in place, but trust me, this took a long time to get right. After cutting the steel it was even longer trimming the arm just right with the flap disc and files...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8a66a0a6.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:47 PM

It was a real bitch getting my torch in there... time for a WP9 with a flex head!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9f708816.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:49 PM

Everything went into place pretty well...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3756c5f4.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:51 PM

When I was tack welding I made sure everything was braced and clamped into place, and I spread my tacks diagonally to disperse heat. With a little technique and a little luck the tag mount didn't twist out of level!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd3b6987.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:54 PM

Then I cut out the 'War Bird' (for lack of a better term) shape... by hand, with grinder/cutting wheel, dremel tool, hack saw, and files... what I wouldn't give for a band saw!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3b829ba.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 08:55 PM

Used a paper template to match the two sides... pretty dang close. The pictures don't do it justice... This took 6 hours and whole pack of Camels. I was pretty happy with the final product. Still have to cut an aluminum backing plate, but maybe by then I'll have access to a band saw... I'm sick of my angle grinder!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psd73de2b2.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:00 PM

On to the next... Set up the spacing while the drive line was still in the bike, then took out the drive-line to tack in the battery tray. This bike didn't have a WCC one, but instead it had a hack job of angle iron. I got a new laser-cut WCC style battery tray from Two Wheel Survivor. BTW, it was a bitch getting that scale off!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps549ec0a4.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:03 PM

If anyone is wondering what the proper spacing is, FlySoCal said his CFL battery tray was 3/8" from the rear trans support. After using my battery to check spacing to the starter and all that jazz, mine ended up at exactly 3/8" behind the rear trans support... what da ya know?

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0323045c.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:07 PM

I was going to use motor mount coil brackets on this bike but looked at it long and hard and said "Fuck It, I'm going with my Secret Weapon mount from my last build."
I've never seen this on a WCC bike or any other bike, I came up with this totally on my own. So I guess its my signature thing. "STBC... Soon to be Copied, FUCKERS!"

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psff87ad20.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:11 PM

I decided I didn't need the massive bullet bungs that stuck out 1/2 inch to make up for the spacing, that was over-kill on my last bike and the welds were really bad. This time I used the 1/4" x 1 bungs that I was originally going to use last time. The spacing between the coil arm and the bung will be cushioned by 1/4" well nuts for a nice rubber mount effect. I didn't want them on there when I was tack welding because a garage full of burnt rubber in the air smells like shit!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psfd8a8535.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:12 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps234e0f98.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:21 PM

I worked on the tank mounts last. The original position of the old tank was almost correct, but the risers hit the new tank. I had already cut off the rear mounts long ago and it was a damn shame I had to cut off the fronts too... They were straight and level and the welds beautiful. Anyway, the whole tank had to come back about 3/8" to 1/2" from that position to get full handle bar turn.

I got the rear tabs tacked in but I fucked up the fronts by cutting them too short. They were the original tabs I had cut off the frame but I still wanted to re-use them. Now I have to order new tabs because the fronts are about 1.5" long where the rears are a good .6" shorter. I was more pissed that I couldn't finish the fab; I wanted to take the frame home and do the finish welding and have it to the plating shop by the end of the week.

With the rear tabs set I rolled her off the lift to check the full turn arc... Perfect, with about 1/4" spacing between the riser and the tank on the steering stop.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3d2bde69.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:23 PM

After I cleaned up my disaster area of a work bay I poked around and fit up the Todd's Cycle Martini Headlight... bitchin

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps67517a35.jpg

CloudDiver 03-04-2013 09:27 PM

One last look at the roller on the lift. Some time this week or this coming weekend I just have to get the tank mounts done and then it all comes apart for finish welding, cleaning, and off to plating.

Earlier this evening I dropped my engine off at Mark's place. He will be taking the top end down so it can get new gaskets (there was a leak) and I can also get the heads and jugs polished. I'll be polishing up the crank case by hand since it will all still be together. Hopefully in about 2 weeks the shiny, freshened up motor will go back into the freshly nickel plated frame!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87634e5b.jpg

longnlow 03-05-2013 05:50 AM

Looking good!

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 03-05-2013 06:32 PM

Cool man, but as far as mill scale, a little heat and a wire wheel take that stuff right off, in no time.

Aussiechop 03-06-2013 05:56 AM

Very nice work man, love it.

CloudDiver 03-10-2013 11:14 AM

Well, this weekend has had its highs and lows...

On the low side, I ran into more than one part issues; mostly easy to overcome but the most painful is that I ordered the wrong PM hydraulic clutch slave. Totally my own fault for not paying attention to part numbers, I got the fluted chrome which is only for 07 and up HD 6 speed transmissions. I can't return it because I opened the package!

Anyway, the bike is completely taken apart for finish welding and while I had the frame on the welding table I ran out of Argon! On a Saturday in Phoenix you only have until noon to get to Vern Lewis for a bottle exchange. So at about 4pm I ran dry and I guess I'm done until I get a new bottle Monday.

The engine is already with my motor guy who has taken the top end down and I'm going Monday to pick up stuff for polishing. Good news is that he said it cleans up real easy and going to a polishing shop may not be needed. I'll give it a try by hand and see if I can get it shiny again.

I finished the tank mounts and did one final fit on the fender to check clearances. A little clean up work on both and they will be ready to go to electroless nickel.

I wish I had been able to finish the frame so I could drop it off to the plating shop on Monday but that won't happen until later in the week. Looks like next weekend will be a BYE week!

CloudDiver 03-11-2013 11:57 PM

Picked up the disassembled motor today, taking the jugs and heads into polish tomorrow morning. So far it has cleaned up pretty nice. A spin on the polishing wheel will have them looking pretty bling.

Have a new bottle of argon but realized I left all my welding rod in my friend's garage 40 miles out of town. Burn up $40 in gas and two hours round trip to get $16 worth of welding rod? Well, I need some other things anyway so I guess I'll head out there soon.

To make everything just so nice and peachy, I was finishing up the new holes for the WCC badge on the neck (the original ones had been welded closed) and broke the tap in the first one... Fucking shit IRWIN tap from Lowes... didn't even feel any resistance, I was 3/4 through and it seemed to be threading fine and it just popped off. FML.

CloudDiver 03-12-2013 09:40 AM

I'm losing sleep over this broken tap in my neck. Plan is to blow it out with a Plasma cutter, drill 5/16 and then weld in a 5/16 slug, grind smooth, punch and re-drill for #8-32 tap... Sounds like the best plan but it still worries me. I know the Plasma is the best option to blow a small, clean hole that will clear the hardened steel of the #6 tap, but my concern is that if the edges of the hole aren't clean then I risk braeking the tip of the 5/16 drill bit if catches a nasty edge.
If I hadn't ran out Argon, remembered to grap my welding rod tubes, and not broken that tap the frame would be getting dipped in the Nickle bath right now... FML!!!

flysocal77 03-12-2013 09:57 AM

I know the feeling. Broke off a tap when I was mounting coil. Lube the hole good with WD40. Place a nut on top and weld the nut to the tap. If its lubed good the filler won't bond to anything but the tap.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/998e51bd.jpg

CloudDiver 03-12-2013 12:30 PM

Tap is broken off flush, nothing to grab... I'm heading out to my buddy's garage this afternoon. Need to pick up some things and I'll do some practice holes on 3/8 plate with the Plasma and see how it goes.

flysocal77 03-12-2013 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1215879)
Tap is broken off flush, nothing to grab... I'm heading out to my buddy's garage this afternoon. Need to pick up some things and I'll do some practice holes on 3/8 plate with the Plasma and see how it goes.

Same here. Broken flush. Try welding the nut on first. Worked for me.

HellionsMC 03-13-2013 04:54 AM

One of the neck badge screws on my build sheared off flush with the neck from age in the process of removing it. Still need to figure out how I can get it out of there. :mad:

Aussiechop 03-14-2013 03:48 AM

Can you not get a straight pick into one of the 4 gaps on the tap? maybe get 2 straight picks and put them in, then try undo it that way?

Barefoot Choppa 03-14-2013 07:09 AM

If its not a blind hole you can chisel/punch that tap. They are brittle and will break into small pieces and just fall through the neck. If its a blind hole your best option would be to use a carbide drill....which is also brittle.

CloudDiver 03-14-2013 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barefoot Choppa (Post 1215980)
If its not a blind hole you can chisel/punch that tap. They are brittle and will break into small pieces and just fall through the neck. If its a blind hole your best option would be to use a carbide drill....which is also brittle.

It wasn't blind, just #6-32 tap into the neck. I tried the punch, but ended up breaking the punch, leaving the tip covering the tap.

Anyway, I ended up using a Plasma Cutter to blow it through. The hole wasn't as neat as my practice holes, but it was about 3/16. It worked out, I was able to drill it out clean to 5/16 and weld in a slug, smoothed it out and then re-drilled and tapped to #8-32.

Now I'm shopping for my own Plasma Cutter :LOL: Great tool to have in the shop.

I'll post pics later... been super busy with the bike.

CloudDiver 03-14-2013 10:17 AM

I haven't gotten around to down-loading all my pics from my phone... sorry.

Story so far; I got done with the finish welding last night, frame is pretty much ready to go to plating. The shop is closed on Friday so I wanted to get it there today and was trying real hard to do so. In the end I decided to wait till Monday because I don't think the weekend will make a difference and gives me the chance to look over the frame in the daylight and really see if everything id good to go. Also, I want to plan out some electrical runs and mock up my fwd controls if I finally get those Fab Kevin adapter plates. I think its best I take my time.

I need to do some small finishing details on the tank and fender and then those will go to electroless nickel tomorrow. Also taking apart the Springer to go to Powder-coat. My Motor parts will come back from Polish Friday and I will take it all back to Mark for assymbly with fresh top-end gaskets Monday. If all goes well I should have everything back late next week and begin final assymbly.

On a sad note, half way through my finish welding my new TIG torch fell off welding table while I was moving the frame and the Pyrex cup craked. Damn, that thing was fantastic... and at $20 not cheap for a small piece of glass. So I had to about half the finish welding without it, but damn... while I was using it I can say they are worth every penny!

CloudDiver 03-18-2013 09:49 AM

Well, being ready for Bike Wekk in AZ may be off the table. I dropped off the frame for nickel plating this morning and there is about a snowball's chance in the Phoenix Summer Sun that it will be ready by the end of the week. Shit, I really needed this weekend to get everything back together. Motor is polished and will be ready Friday. Tank and fender should be back from Electroless Nickel Wednesday and body/primer by Saturday... My plan was to truck it back to San Diego on the 29th for registration. It WAS my plan anyway, haha.
Well, back to the calendar... it might be possible. The Duacti may have to give up her plate for a weekend in April!

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:13 PM

Checked on the Nickel plating today, going smoothly but still wont be done till next week. Powder coating on springer and small parts is done, picking up tomorrow.

Here are some pics I have neglected to post over the past few weeks, teasers i guess;

Parts of my 2-into-1 exhaust, Ledbetter Choppers is working on my headers right now;
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps05a859ff.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:17 PM

Sneak peek at my fwd controls... Chango Blanco style stock Softail forwards with my own twist, a Brembo rear master (off a Ducati no less).
Don't mind the speed holes on this brake arm, the machine shop screwed the pooch on this and they are doing another one for me correctly this time...
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pseb4d81c7.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:19 PM

This where I blasted that broken tap through with a plasma cutter,

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pscda69890.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:19 PM

Then drilled it out clean...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps39ac8966.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:21 PM

Welded in a 5/16" plug,

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3efc2e65.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:22 PM

Like it never fuckin happened...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psb28237f5.jpg

CloudDiver 03-21-2013 10:23 PM

Re-drilled, and re-tapped... carefully this time.

Pure Fucking Magic

I think the #8-32 look better than the #6-32... stronger, and I can get replacements at the hardware store!

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0aaedbf7.jpg


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