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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/99345-ugly-betch-new-episode-cfl-rehab-new-ish-build-thread.html)

beastlightnbs 02-18-2013 06:57 AM

Looks fantastic Cloud, nice fuckin work man.

CloudDiver 02-18-2013 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pop 28 (Post 1213602)
looks great!! just not sure on the tire and fender space...for me i like seeing more tighter to the tire...all and all good work

Yeah, I hear ya on that. The 530 chain I'm using for spacing gives 5/8 of space between the fender and tire. For some people that's too much. I've seen as little as 1/4" on many chops, but that scares me because Metzler tires grow when they get warm, I have heard up to .20", so if you are at .25" to start you run the risk of rubbing.
I made a 1.5" lip that will line the iside of the fender on the back, 1" lip down front and also around the belt cut-out. I decided to add those in after the fender is mounted so it will visually close up that gap a little. When I get there I'll show before and after shots.

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 02-18-2013 04:37 PM

I like it man!

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:14 PM

Got a few things done Wednesday after work... I thought I would skip all the 'How To' posts on this build, but I figure why not in case people are wondering for their own build.

So a lot of pics will follow; but just to sum up I only did a few things...

I mounted the two bungs on the right side, the left will be later because I just got the longer 2 inch bung today. I'll show my method of coping and a new trick for getting the drill bit dead on.

I also tack welded the seat springs bungs to the cross bar, but I wanted to cope them because I thought they were too tall.

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:21 PM

Here is how I cope the bungs.

I mark the line on the bung exactly where it will sit on the peak of the tube... notice it is off center.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3aa43619.jpg

Then I score a line with the hack saw. This helps guide the file straight.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4e16d6e5.jpg

I start with a small round file first.
http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psf0bfdbf1.jpg

Then I finish with the round back file. The cope does not have to be super deep. This is enough to give me much better contact area and I don't have to pull the tungsten way out on the torch to get into the recess. The bung sits steady on the tube when clamped. The bung with the hole in the end is my drill guide. That bung got a little messed up on the last build, so I coped it the same as the others and drilled through with a 5/16th bit.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psdf08e9a8.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:25 PM

First thing I do when setting up the final position of the fender and tacking on bungs is make sure the bike is sitting level. I use 4x6 blocks screwed to small pieces of 1/2" plywood, this sets the bike up just enough for the rear wheel to be 1/2" off the table lift. Makes it easy to get the rear wheel in and out. I use regular hardware store wood shims to tweak the level bubble.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52e42afe.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:29 PM

Here is the drill guide bung set in place with the Stronghand Tools Pipe Clamp.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbc8adaa.jpg

Leaves me with a perfect drill start point dead center in the skirt. the idea is after I take the fender off and drill the 3/8 hole I can bolt the bung on and set it back in the frame and the bungs should land right where they are supposed to go and rest on the coped side.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps854dda96.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:32 PM

Before I weld these bungs in I clean the the tube with a strip of 80 grit, and I clean the bungs with a Scotch-Brite pad and a Phosphate Degreaser/De-scaler/Rust remover from Industrial Metal Supply. You can see the difference from flash rusted and dirty to clean and ready to weld. In the pic it looks like there is still some rust in the pitting, but I sprayed and cleaned 2 more times after I took this pic.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7ee408a3.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:36 PM

I'm doing all my tack welds with TIG now, not fucking around with the MIG anymore. It takes more time to set up but I have way more control over the arc and no mess to clean up.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps709c64f5.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:38 PM

Finished the outside weld of the strut tabs so I don't risk breaking a tack if I put too much stress on one by accident.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b11935f.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:46 PM

Here is the seat spring bung before... over 1/2" tall.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8a1f819d.jpg

So I coped the shit out of them to get then both down to about .20". I had them both gently squeezed by the post in the vice and ran the coarse round back file in the pre-set cope... took fucking forever. I thought I had a pic of them both welded in-line but I guess I don't. This pic shows how short I got the base.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps766cec7c.jpg

CloudDiver 02-21-2013 10:55 PM

That's it... a whole lotta pics for welding on 4 bungs, haha!

Well, I got my Chassis Design Co. kick-stand in the mail today along with a 2 inch 3/8 bullet bung to go on the right side. So this weekend I'll finish up the fender mounting and weld on the kick stand mount.
When that stuff is done I'll be ready to pull the engine so it can go in for a top-end rebuild. I just need new gaskets but since it has to come apart it will go for a refresher polish. I might have the cylinders honed and new rings put in if it's needed.
The only welding left after this weekend will be re-mounting the gas tank tabs and setting the bung for the front brake bracket arm. i'll probably have the frame at chrome a week from Monday!

So with all that said, AZ Bike Week starts in about 7 weeks. I'm not going to set that as a deadline but its looking like a possibility... :D

HellionsMC 02-22-2013 04:38 AM

Nice fabrication pics, love those pipe pliers. Putting that one on my shopping list.

flysocal77 02-22-2013 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1213970)
That's it... a whole lotta pics for welding on 4 bungs, haha!

Well, I got my Chassis Design Co. kick-stand in the mail today along with a 2 inch 3/8 bullet bung to go on the right side. So this weekend I'll finish up the fender mounting and weld on the kick stand mount.
When that stuff is done I'll be ready to pull the engine so it can go in for a top-end rebuild. I just need new gaskets but since it has to come apart it will go for a refresher polish. I might have the cylinders honed and new rings put in if it's needed.
The only welding left after this weekend will be re-mounting the gas tank tabs and setting the bung for the front brake bracket arm. i'll probably have the frame at chrome a week from Monday!

So with all that said, AZ Bike Week starts in about 7 weeks. I'm not going to set that as a deadline but its looking like a possibility... :D

Did you notice your Chassis Design kickstand had a stainless steal insert. With the stainless ball rubbing against aluminum after a while the aluminum wears a bit and the ball is loose and will fall out. The fix was this stainless insert to so the ball rubs against a much harder material. Another flaw that Jesse knows about but won't fix. Just stamp a Maltese cross on it and sell it for 400.

flysocal77 02-22-2013 03:12 PM

This is the new design with a stainless insert. Hope you got this one.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0ab0e1d1.jpg

250CFL 02-22-2013 03:18 PM

Cloud, I gotta say, you are one busy mofo and you do nice work! My hat's off to ya bro, looking forward to seeing how this bitch turns out.

Oh and to "flysocal" it isn't that Jesse will not fix the known issue. It is just that he wants to be able to easily recognize who has a used WCC kickstand that is still in working order. That way he knows the posers and dumb asses from the real fockers. See if someone’s "balls fall out" he doesn’t want to associate with them :LOL:

CloudDiver 02-23-2013 09:54 AM

Yup, both my Chassis Design Co. Kickstands have that feature. Thanks for the heads up. Another reason to stick with these kick stands vs WCC, besides the whole half the price part!

Quote:

Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1214002)
This is the new design with a stainless insert. Hope you got this one.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0ab0e1d1.jpg


CloudDiver 02-23-2013 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 250CFL (Post 1214003)
Cloud, I gotta say, you are one busy mofo and you do nice work! My hat's off to ya bro, looking forward to seeing how this bitch turns out.

Thanks dude... I'm pretty happy with how this build is going. I have to thank everyone here that I have learned from and I also learned so much from my first build that this one is going way better.

I've become a perfectionist on how everything is done, especially since the frame will be chrome any flaws will stand out more. I finished all the fender mounting bungs last night. I took over 6 hours doing it. I didn't have to cut any bungs off but I did break one of the tacks on 3 of them because they weren't level or square on the frame... heat was moving them a little. Lesson learned, and I should have known this... after the first tack check it again! Far easier to twist the bung a little on one tack than have to cut the 2nd tack to reposition!

CloudDiver 02-23-2013 10:05 AM

So like I said above I finished the fender mounting last night. Today I'll mount the kick stand and then weld on the bung for the front springer brake bracket heim joint to the rear tube of the fork. Hopefully I'll get to the tank mounts as well. That should be it for fabrication.
My goal is to pull the engine, primary, and trans from the frame by Sunday night. The motor can go to my engine tuner Mark. He is an independent V-Twin guru here in Phoenix and comes highly recommended. He'll tear down the top end for new gaskets and I'll take the opportunity to get everything polished.
With the frame empty I can do the finish welding, clean up, and go to chrome by next week!

CloudDiver 02-25-2013 11:25 PM

I didn't get too much done this past weekend... motor and driveline are still in the frame. I should get my Chassis Design Co battery box this week and once I get the battery tray welded in then I can remove the drive line. I did get the kick stand mounted and fiddled around with the fender some more. I was pretty beat this weekend and had too many distractions and delays... Anyway, I rolled her outside to check the kickstand lean and get some pictures in the sun.

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psc2c8d4ff.jpg

CloudDiver 02-25-2013 11:25 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a7ec996.jpg

CloudDiver 02-25-2013 11:26 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psf9a53edf.jpg

CloudDiver 02-25-2013 11:26 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90179a36.jpg

Aussiechop 02-26-2013 03:28 AM

looks great.

caymanchris 02-26-2013 04:02 AM

Nice transformation from page one!

CloudDiver 02-26-2013 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymanchris (Post 1214284)
Nice transformation from page one!

Thanks! I think the before and after pics are going to be pretty intense!

As far as 'secret weapon' parts on this bike, I do have a few in the skunk works.
I can't take credit for this because this particular feature that was already on the frame, but remember the two welded tube ends on the front of the backbone where the wires came out? Well, as you can see in the pic above the throttle cable goes down in there perfectly. With the use of a Magnum BYO brake line kit my hydraulic clutch line will also go down the back bone, out into the battery box and follow the oil lines to the front of trans, or back if I get a rear feed. The only wires through the back bone will be the headlight and will share space on the throttle cable side.

caymanchris 02-26-2013 01:24 PM

Cool ! are those the 3 or 4 inch seatsprings?

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 02-26-2013 04:53 PM

Looks pretty cool man! Need some SS heatshields?

CloudDiver 02-27-2013 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caymanchris (Post 1214333)
Cool ! are those the 3 or 4 inch seatsprings?

3 inch, but I almost wish I had 2 inch... easy to swap out if I want to.

flysocal77 02-27-2013 09:42 AM

I like everything. Springer is perfect, like the stretch. Looks like a chopper. Wheels are perfect. Seat springs are risky (can make a bike look like shit) but you pulled it off. Tank fit the bike and will give you some capacity for 100+ legs. The pipes are a good compromise between old and new school. 2/1 makes a bike look modern and doesn't suit an old school springer IMO, not sure if you're still chopping these pipes for a 2/1. I like the belt final drive, makes setup more difficult as I found out but makes for a more thoughtful custom. Decided on paint scheme yet?

Any word from Hot Dog? Can't wait to see the paint job on your other build.

CloudDiver 02-27-2013 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TWOWHLSIRVIVR (Post 1214364)
Looks pretty cool man! Need some SS heatshields?

I might... Not using those SS style pipes, but my 2-1 will have the same style headers, so the same heat shield should work.

CloudDiver 02-27-2013 10:58 PM

Which Air Cleaner???
 
I'm not using a WCC air cleaner on this build... they just don't breath enough and i'm not paying $900.

So, having a hard time deciding between these 3;

Wrath to match the wheels;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps15339654.jpg

PM MERC Black ops because one is on sale, and I need as much black as I can to off-set the chrome frame and polished motor;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...psc751182f.jpg

Or Alloy Art, because it looks good, has black, and I'm using the Todd's Cycle (Alloy Art) Martini Head Light and Tail Light;

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps645ff037.jpg

beastlightnbs 02-28-2013 04:39 AM

One vote for black ops.

Miamio96 02-28-2013 07:36 AM

i like Todd's best. Also he's a good guy and helped me out a bunch in the past.

ezriders66 02-28-2013 09:09 AM

I like the black ops. I am planning to use the PM black ops brake components when I get to that point.

caymanchris 02-28-2013 08:28 PM

Todd's gets my vote, if that's what we are doing lol!

CloudDiver 02-28-2013 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1214477)
I'm not using a WCC air cleaner on this build... they just don't breath enough and i'm not paying $900.

I went with the Alloy Art... PM came out with a new design this year called the Max HP, which is pretty much a copy of this one. And since PM won't make the Max HP for Super E carbs, well it makes it easy...

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps645ff037.jpg


***************

CloudDiver 02-28-2013 10:56 PM

Since we are on a roll with votes, let me know what you think of this;

I was at my plating shop today talking about this bike. I'm dead set on plating this frame but I've been having second thoughts on chrome... With the wheels chrome, polished motor, oil tank, trans and all there is a bunch of shiny brite stuff and I'm trying to off set as much as I can with black.

I think the chrome frame might be TOO much shiny brite stuff, so maybe brushed nickel on the frame? Anybody have experience with a plated frame in brushed nickel? I know a bright nickel finish will oxidize over time like a new shiny coin fresh from the mint will look a few years later... not really down with that. With brushed nickel you can just freshen it up with a scotch brite pad right? I guess you could do that with brite nickel too but you are just changing it to brushed nickel that way...

Do you put a matte finish clear on brushed nickel or no? I need to make my mind by next week, frame is almost ready for plating. The work list for this weekend is long but I'm sure I will knock it out.

pop 28 03-01-2013 04:14 AM

black chrome.. a really a cool look

caymanchris 03-01-2013 05:34 AM

Black chrome sounds interesting, never seen a frame done , but black chrome wheels looks awesome!


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