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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (

CloudDiver 01-07-2013 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1209978)
Your gonna have 20 grand into this thing. So much for the budget build. Don't feel bad I'm on the same boat.

Oh Hell No!!! Even with the motor work I'm still keeping this as low as possible. I decided to skip the dyno run on the front side. Why risk bowing the gasket just to get base-line numbers? I doubt I even need to port the heads, they actually should already be done since there are Wiesco 10:1 pistons in there. Anyway, I'm planning to do a bunch of this work myself.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:07 PM

Some good news... finally...
So I talked to the original owner today... As I suspected the bike was very molested from the time he sold it to the time it got to me; i don't know if I am the 3rd, 4th, or what ever number down the line. Anyway, the tank, wheels, pipes, and seat he had put on were all pulled off and sold off... he had a WCC tank (it was red like the bike), a Danny grey seat on a molded pan (evidence from the velcro on the rear fender), billet PM wheels, and a Thunder Header 2 into 1 (there is a mounting tab for it on the frame and the motor runs like shit without it). That's what happens when you sell your custom build to your 20 something nephew...

Anyway, the good news is I was able to talk to him about the motor work. he's 100% sure the heads were ported and 5 angle valve job. He wouldn't have put the Weisco 10:1 pistons in there and not have done the head work. There is also an Andrews cam in there, but he's not sure which one. He gave me the name of the shop, Lee's Speed Shop, so I'll call Monday and see if they have more records than the build sheet.
So I've just saved $500 because I don't have to do head work... I need to know what Cam grind is in there, and if has roller rocker arms, adjustable push-rods... etc. Once I get all the details I can make my plan...
Might go with a higher lift cam grind, bore out 88" at 10.5:1, blah, blah, blah... Hopefully all that will fall into place with a basic top-end over-haul to put in the new gaskets and get the everything show polished again.
Once Cylinders, heads and cases are show polished from raw its cheaper to have them 'freshened up' right? = not as much time on the buffing wheel?

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:09 PM

Let the tear down begin...
Started Friday after work, breaking her down to parade rest;

One last look at the Ugly Betch before I make her pretty again.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:12 PM

The Rat's Nest under the seat in the batt box... I didn't try to figure out what was what. I disconnected what could be unclipped or unbolted, everything else I cut, but I cut things close to the terminations so I can actually salvage most of the wiring harness.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:14 PM

A little grease on the on the iphone lens, ha ha... They used to smear grease on movie cameras in the 70's to give things a softer look. Oil bag finally pulled out after I yanked all that nasty wire.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:17 PM

This was as far as I got Friday evening. A few scary things I noticed;
- The rear exhaust bolt, bottom one wasn't even tight.
- Only two of the four motor mount bolts were tight.
- There were a few other 'danger' bolts that were not very tight, but I can't remember em all.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:20 PM

On Saturday morning I cut off the rear gas tank mounts so I could set down the new tank on the front mounts and get a cleaner look at how it fits... much better.

I was really hoping I could leave the front mounts where they are which would make tank mounting real easy, but the fronts still have to come down 1/4 inch or so if I want the tank bottom flush with the backbone bottom. I think I'll be able to tack in the new rear mounts in their new position and then cut off an re-position the fronts.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:29 PM

I had it down to bare frame by early Saturday afternoon... forgot to take more pics.

Here is a fun fact I didn't know.
When you take the nuts off the trans mount studs and they are rusted on, you will back the stud out of the trans case... You should put new studs in when you re-install, so no harm no foul right? Well, unlike my JIM's case on my other CFL where the trans studs stop in a block of the case bottom, stock H-D cases have pass-through studs, so if you take it all the way out then your trans oil comes out right behind it.... messy!

This something I found across many parts of the bike; in several places where the paint should be sanded for metal-to metal contact... well, they didn't. So here is the flaked off paint on the neck where the dust shield was. They did sand the paint off the front motor mount foot print, but not the rear or several other places where there is metal to metal...

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:35 PM

The Fab for my 2 into 1 exhaust will come later after I get the motor work sorted out and mocked back up in the frame, but for now feast your eyes on this bitchin SS muffler;
2.25 inlet to 3 inch megaphone and then reverse cone to 2.25 outlet, stainless mesh inside with stainless wool wrap... $100, fuck me running... Next thing to do is get the SS collector made and welded to the muffler.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:44 PM

So, the frame is in the back of my truck and will go to the soda blaster this week. When its all clean I can get to sorting out the welding fixes.
- The old plate bracket mount is history and in with a new Fab Kevin horizontal mount.
- A few other misc tabs will go bye-bye, like the old fender strut tabs.
- A new battery box tray will go in to replace the cave-man welded angle iron that supported the too-large battery BELOW the fuckin frame rails.
- I'll sort out the tank and weld on the new brackets in the rear and lower the fronts.
- Fit up the new(ish) OG WCC fender I got, Rigid Two-Eight same as my other bike but this time I don't have to re-radius the fucker!!!!
- Fab up simple round bar fender struts with counter bore bungs.

That about covers the welding and Fab for the most part. I've got a ton of ideas bouncing around for motor mods, might be changing wheels... etc. My Twisted Choppers springer won't be here till the end of the month, they are still waiting on a new bender to arrive. No worries, I have plenty to keep me busy for at least three weeks.

BTW, the fenders, front end, and other things are already up on eBay!

Aussiechop 01-14-2013 02:56 AM

Great work man, I'm jealous you get to do this!

Choppa 01-16-2013 07:43 PM

Please cut that rear fender and get rid of the "dog dick red "..... :LOL:

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by Choppa (Post 1210815)
Please cut that rear fender and get rid of the "dog dick red "..... :LOL:

One step ahead of ya Choppa... see Soda Blasted pics below :D

I'm not a big fan of 'dog dick red', but don't think I'll be painting this bike vagina pink either! :LOL:

The tank didn't get blasted, its just sitting there looking good...

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:18 PM

Here are some close up shots of welds and other details... gives you a good idea how great the soda cleans off paint, bondo and other shit without damaging the base metal.

And without the flash...

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:22 PM

Here are the pipes after soda blast... turns out they are stainless for sure. Jon from Ledbetter Choppers told me he did no make them... all of his and the WCC pipes are stepped. These are 1.75 OD all the way. So I still have no idea who made them, but the bends are identical to WCC SS pipes and the TIG welds are tight... I'd say its a shame to cut them but since it is really a knock off I don't feel bad, not yet anyway ;-)

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