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12-31-2012, 11:23 AM
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Holding everything square I tacked the pivot into place. Notice how I tacked a nail set to the the top corner of the bare metal as my ground. This was vital since there was no other bare metal on the frame to ground to.
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12-31-2012, 11:27 AM
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And welding the pivot all the way around... BTW, I had to flatten the bottom of the mount which is normally set up for tubes. You'll notice how the back end of my back-bone over the seat post is flattened out. This was done (among other frame mods) by Precision Metal Fab, probably because this bike once had a molded seat pan.
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12-31-2012, 11:30 AM
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And here with springs and spring mounts bolted in... I didn't take any pictures of that part, but you get the idea. When I blast this old paint off the frame I will weld the top part of the spring mounts and close up the hole on the bottom of the tube.
See the electrical mess under the seat? I'm going to clean that up later by moving the ignition coils out to the motor mount which will leave way more room, then fab a cover plate for the battery box, an idea that came from flysocal77's build. Check out his Living Room build thread and see the finished oil tank painted by Hot Dog, killer.
Last edited by CloudDiver; 12-31-2012 at 11:35 AM..
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12-31-2012, 11:42 AM
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Before I mentioned I was going to use the new Chassis Designs springer front end. Unfortunately he only makes that in a mid-glide, and my front wheel is a wide glide. I have no intention of changing wheels, not a justifiable cost for this bike so I decided to go with a Twisted Choppers Wide Wishbone Springer; https://twistedchoppers.com/shop/twi...one-springer/#
I really like Chassis Design stuff, but after looking at the Twisted Choppers Springer many times I actually like it a little better for this bike. I ordered it last week and should have it about mid-January. I got the front caliper mount from Bob's in Phoenix, AZ. I discovered there was a little misleading info in the product details... he claims it works with any aftermarket 4 piston brake caliper with 3.5 inch mounts. Yes, it will... as long as it is a REAR caliper with the dog ears at the bottom. A left front PM caliper will NOT work. So now I gotta buy a rear caliper... Anyone want a chrome PM front left caliper?
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01-02-2013, 10:08 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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2 into 1 Exhaust
To get the power I want out of the 80" Evo I really need to go with a 2-1 Exhaust. I've been looking all over the place for the right set and I'm not happy with most on the market because they are all low-mount. An RSD tracker is an option but I'm not lot looking to spend a grip.
After the last WCC 2 into 1 ended this weekend on eBay for $790 I decided I might try to modify my existing pipes since they are high mount to start with. I checked Megs Exhaust Warehouse-Exhaust Systems, Exhaust Collectors, Components, Exhaust Conical, Mufflers, Exhaust Tips ; I knew about this website before but forgot they had motorcycle mufflers and collectors.
So all I need is a muffler and 2-1 collector and Shazam, 2-1 pipes. Question is, if I weld the components together I will a one piece exhaust. Will that still be able to mount/dismount to the Evo motor? Does the CFl frame get in the way?
I'm trying to see if I can weld the collector to the muffler and have the headers slip fit into the collector, then use SS clamps. That would keep it a 3 piece set up but I'm not sure the O.D. and I.D. of the muffler/collector/headers will all match up to do that.
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01-03-2013, 02:55 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Perth,
WA
Bike Year, Make, Engine: CFL, 113" Ultima
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looking good man.
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01-03-2013, 11:00 AM
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OK, it's settled... I am building my own 2 into 1 high mount exhaust for this bike by using the orginal headers. I just ordered a 12 inch reverse cone muffler, 2.25 inch inlet from Cone Engineering. Then I'll have a 2-1 merge collector made by either Tube Bending & Fabrication - Columbia River Mandrel Bending or SPD :: Exhaust Collectors.
A 'stock' 2-1 collector (about $70) might have center-line that is too tight, so I'll probably have a custom center-line made for my 1.75" O.D. headers with .5 inch gap between making my merge collector center-line 2.25". The inlets will be slip-fit for the headers and if I send the muffler to them they can weld it onto the collector for $10. The muffler and collector will be 304 stainless, my headers are mild steel.
Also, I'm going to try to bring the front cylinder pipe in closer by adding 2 bends. the black that is on the pipes now is just high-temp paint, no big loss to blast that off. I also got brackets for the collector & head pipes that will go on the back to bolt them together. I'll probably use round bar to make a custom support bracket off the back of the collector.
If this works out I'll probably make a 2-1 for the 113 S&S on my other CFL too, probably a 2.5 inch inlet/outlet on that muffler. I just picked up a very well used and blued set of Hell-Bents yesterday from CL for $200... Blashphemy or not, if I can get the curves right I may modify those into the 2 into 1... crazy!
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01-06-2013, 10:59 AM
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Fitting up new(ish) gas tank
I got this gas tank from my local custom shop in Phoenix, Evolution Customs. It had been damaged, a dent on the right side that they repaired. It has been modified some, the last two or o inches has been bobbed off, and there are two fangs or notches (for lack of a better term on the front bottom corners. I liked it because it is a little shorter than a standard Villain tank and it has correct flat bottom with recessed mounts. Best of all, it was $150!
Anyway, I wasn't sure if I would like it on this bike because I was trying to keep it an old school look to go along with the spoke wheels. I was really wanting to stick with the Sporty King tank style, but don't want to pay $500 for a new one since the existing one is garbage.
I took the sporty tank off for a minute just to see how this tank will look;
It isn't sitting right because the old tank tabs don't line up, but you get the idea.
This is what seals the deal, I like this view...
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01-06-2013, 11:06 AM
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I wanted to stay old school with the sporty tank, but I think with the Springer I have coming from Twisted Choppers and the 2 into 1 exhaust I am making it will still have that sort of 'New Old School' feel that is WCC to me, or at least the way I see it. I'm happy with using this tank, especially since I wanted to avoid high $$$ parts.
Tom at Evolution suggested Nickel plating the tank inside and out, and told me about a local plater who will do it for a fair price. This isn't a finish, obviously because of the dent, but helps ensure that any micro pinholes or other things inside the tank won't lead to leaks, plus corrosion resistance from the inside out.
I'll take some more pics of the tank and post below so you can better see the mods I mentioned above.
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01-06-2013, 11:18 AM
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Some detail shots of the mods to the tank;
The bobbed tail...
Notches on bottom front corners...
The bottom mounts...
Front profile...
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01-06-2013, 11:36 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Diego,
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Since I'm going for more of WCC feel now (without all the high $$$ WCC parts from eGay) I think I'll ditch the 14 inch apes for Super Bars from Chassis Design Co. I also wanted a hydraulic clutch so I looked into the PM clutch... $302 for the hand control and another $315 for a fluted chrome Clutch slave for the tranny... Hmmmm, well it will cost a little more but I might ditch the PM hand controls all together and get the Brembos, that way I can sell off the PM ones as a set and get the look I want.
Het Pushrod 243, you think the Brembo hand controls will mount up with no issues while keeping the PM switches on the bars? Those single buttons on each side are my ignition button right and hi/lo headlight on the left, then PM single throttle and grips.
That brings up the next thing I could do, go with knurled foot pegs and grips? After that I'll do an open belt primary, a 2 inch BDL or another Primo Slimline. I'm cutting off that god awful plate/light bracket and getting another Fab Kevin horizontal mount, this time with a Boosted Brad tear drop stop light. I think that pretty much covers new parts, almost everything else will stay the same. The only engine mods will be a new cam on top of the new 2 into 1 and a better air cleaner. After the dyno runs I should post up some fair gains on that 80 inch EVO.
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01-07-2013, 02:26 AM
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Club Chopper Member
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Perth,
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Bike Year, Make, Engine: CFL, 113" Ultima
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Hell yeah, that all sounds good. Can't wait to see it. You going to re paint it?
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01-07-2013, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiechop
Hell yeah, that all sounds good. Can't wait to see it. You going to re paint it?
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Oh yes, it will be repainted for sure. Probably doing a simple gloss or satin black on the frame and springer.
For the Gas Tank and Rear Fender (no front fender) I'm bouncing between doing a metal flake paint with pinstripes or doing the Rust finish. I've read the threads on CC about the rust and I think I can pull it off. The Modern Masters paints have the rust metal reactive paint as well as the acid resitant primer, rust activator, and matte sealer. I don't need as much texture as Chango Blanco had because I want to pinstripe it before sealing. I'm hoping I can do the rust part myself but i have concerns since it is a water based paint system. I will nickle plate my tank before the redkote sealer.
I have an email in to Tom Prewitt to see what he'd charge me for his shop to do the job and also what it would be to do a metal flake instead. I'll see what he says.
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01-07-2013, 01:13 PM
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Almost Blown head gasket?
It looks like I am working on blowing the front cylinder head gasket. I started the bike up yesterday and noticed tiny (and I mean almost too small to see) drops of oil spitting on my leg. Craning my neck on the left side of the bike to see the micro drops in the sunlight I could tell they were coming from the back corner of the head gasket, and sure enough the there was the tell tale black oil gob on top of the fin too.
I'm not exactly sure how long this has been going on but I imagine it has been since before I got the bike. There isn't a ton of drippy burned oil on the fin, maybe the size of a nickel.
The engine is going to have some work done anyway, out of the bike and on a stand. Problem is I wanted to have a dyno pull this weekend for my base-line numbers, but now I don't think it's safe to rev up that high to do a dyno pull.
I'll snap some pics tonight to show the leak, but i think I will start a new thread in the tech forum anyway because i want to cover the whole topic of H-D 80" Evo tuning.
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01-07-2013, 02:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glendale,
CA
Bike Year, Make, Engine: Big Dollar CFL
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Your gonna have 20 grand into this thing. So much for the budget build. Don't feel bad I'm on the same boat.
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