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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (

CloudDiver 01-06-2013 12:36 PM

Since I'm going for more of WCC feel now (without all the high $$$ WCC parts from eGay) I think I'll ditch the 14 inch apes for Super Bars from Chassis Design Co. I also wanted a hydraulic clutch so I looked into the PM clutch... $302 for the hand control and another $315 for a fluted chrome Clutch slave for the tranny... Hmmmm, well it will cost a little more but I might ditch the PM hand controls all together and get the Brembos, that way I can sell off the PM ones as a set and get the look I want.

Het Pushrod 243, you think the Brembo hand controls will mount up with no issues while keeping the PM switches on the bars? Those single buttons on each side are my ignition button right and hi/lo headlight on the left, then PM single throttle and grips.

That brings up the next thing I could do, go with knurled foot pegs and grips? After that I'll do an open belt primary, a 2 inch BDL or another Primo Slimline. I'm cutting off that god awful plate/light bracket and getting another Fab Kevin horizontal mount, this time with a Boosted Brad tear drop stop light. I think that pretty much covers new parts, almost everything else will stay the same. The only engine mods will be a new cam on top of the new 2 into 1 and a better air cleaner. After the dyno runs I should post up some fair gains on that 80 inch EVO.

Aussiechop 01-07-2013 03:26 AM

Hell yeah, that all sounds good. Can't wait to see it. You going to re paint it?

CloudDiver 01-07-2013 10:29 AM


Originally Posted by Aussiechop (Post 1209877)
Hell yeah, that all sounds good. Can't wait to see it. You going to re paint it?

Oh yes, it will be repainted for sure. Probably doing a simple gloss or satin black on the frame and springer.

For the Gas Tank and Rear Fender (no front fender) I'm bouncing between doing a metal flake paint with pinstripes or doing the Rust finish. I've read the threads on CC about the rust and I think I can pull it off. The Modern Masters paints have the rust metal reactive paint as well as the acid resitant primer, rust activator, and matte sealer. I don't need as much texture as Chango Blanco had because I want to pinstripe it before sealing. I'm hoping I can do the rust part myself but i have concerns since it is a water based paint system. I will nickle plate my tank before the redkote sealer.

I have an email in to Tom Prewitt to see what he'd charge me for his shop to do the job and also what it would be to do a metal flake instead. I'll see what he says.

CloudDiver 01-07-2013 02:13 PM

Almost Blown head gasket?
It looks like I am working on blowing the front cylinder head gasket. I started the bike up yesterday and noticed tiny (and I mean almost too small to see) drops of oil spitting on my leg. Craning my neck on the left side of the bike to see the micro drops in the sunlight I could tell they were coming from the back corner of the head gasket, and sure enough the there was the tell tale black oil gob on top of the fin too.
I'm not exactly sure how long this has been going on but I imagine it has been since before I got the bike. There isn't a ton of drippy burned oil on the fin, maybe the size of a nickel.
The engine is going to have some work done anyway, out of the bike and on a stand. Problem is I wanted to have a dyno pull this weekend for my base-line numbers, but now I don't think it's safe to rev up that high to do a dyno pull.

I'll snap some pics tonight to show the leak, but i think I will start a new thread in the tech forum anyway because i want to cover the whole topic of H-D 80" Evo tuning.

flysocal77 01-07-2013 03:36 PM

Your gonna have 20 grand into this thing. So much for the budget build. Don't feel bad I'm on the same boat.

CloudDiver 01-07-2013 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1209978)
Your gonna have 20 grand into this thing. So much for the budget build. Don't feel bad I'm on the same boat.

Oh Hell No!!! Even with the motor work I'm still keeping this as low as possible. I decided to skip the dyno run on the front side. Why risk bowing the gasket just to get base-line numbers? I doubt I even need to port the heads, they actually should already be done since there are Wiesco 10:1 pistons in there. Anyway, I'm planning to do a bunch of this work myself.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:07 PM

Some good news... finally...
So I talked to the original owner today... As I suspected the bike was very molested from the time he sold it to the time it got to me; i don't know if I am the 3rd, 4th, or what ever number down the line. Anyway, the tank, wheels, pipes, and seat he had put on were all pulled off and sold off... he had a WCC tank (it was red like the bike), a Danny grey seat on a molded pan (evidence from the velcro on the rear fender), billet PM wheels, and a Thunder Header 2 into 1 (there is a mounting tab for it on the frame and the motor runs like shit without it). That's what happens when you sell your custom build to your 20 something nephew...

Anyway, the good news is I was able to talk to him about the motor work. he's 100% sure the heads were ported and 5 angle valve job. He wouldn't have put the Weisco 10:1 pistons in there and not have done the head work. There is also an Andrews cam in there, but he's not sure which one. He gave me the name of the shop, Lee's Speed Shop, so I'll call Monday and see if they have more records than the build sheet.
So I've just saved $500 because I don't have to do head work... I need to know what Cam grind is in there, and if has roller rocker arms, adjustable push-rods... etc. Once I get all the details I can make my plan...
Might go with a higher lift cam grind, bore out 88" at 10.5:1, blah, blah, blah... Hopefully all that will fall into place with a basic top-end over-haul to put in the new gaskets and get the everything show polished again.
Once Cylinders, heads and cases are show polished from raw its cheaper to have them 'freshened up' right? = not as much time on the buffing wheel?

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:09 PM

Let the tear down begin...
Started Friday after work, breaking her down to parade rest;

One last look at the Ugly Betch before I make her pretty again.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:12 PM

The Rat's Nest under the seat in the batt box... I didn't try to figure out what was what. I disconnected what could be unclipped or unbolted, everything else I cut, but I cut things close to the terminations so I can actually salvage most of the wiring harness.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:14 PM

A little grease on the on the iphone lens, ha ha... They used to smear grease on movie cameras in the 70's to give things a softer look. Oil bag finally pulled out after I yanked all that nasty wire.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:17 PM

This was as far as I got Friday evening. A few scary things I noticed;
- The rear exhaust bolt, bottom one wasn't even tight.
- Only two of the four motor mount bolts were tight.
- There were a few other 'danger' bolts that were not very tight, but I can't remember em all.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:20 PM

On Saturday morning I cut off the rear gas tank mounts so I could set down the new tank on the front mounts and get a cleaner look at how it fits... much better.

I was really hoping I could leave the front mounts where they are which would make tank mounting real easy, but the fronts still have to come down 1/4 inch or so if I want the tank bottom flush with the backbone bottom. I think I'll be able to tack in the new rear mounts in their new position and then cut off an re-position the fronts.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:29 PM

I had it down to bare frame by early Saturday afternoon... forgot to take more pics.

Here is a fun fact I didn't know.
When you take the nuts off the trans mount studs and they are rusted on, you will back the stud out of the trans case... You should put new studs in when you re-install, so no harm no foul right? Well, unlike my JIM's case on my other CFL where the trans studs stop in a block of the case bottom, stock H-D cases have pass-through studs, so if you take it all the way out then your trans oil comes out right behind it.... messy!

This something I found across many parts of the bike; in several places where the paint should be sanded for metal-to metal contact... well, they didn't. So here is the flaked off paint on the neck where the dust shield was. They did sand the paint off the front motor mount foot print, but not the rear or several other places where there is metal to metal...

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:35 PM

The Fab for my 2 into 1 exhaust will come later after I get the motor work sorted out and mocked back up in the frame, but for now feast your eyes on this bitchin SS muffler;
2.25 inlet to 3 inch megaphone and then reverse cone to 2.25 outlet, stainless mesh inside with stainless wool wrap... $100, fuck me running... Next thing to do is get the SS collector made and welded to the muffler.

CloudDiver 01-13-2013 10:44 PM

So, the frame is in the back of my truck and will go to the soda blaster this week. When its all clean I can get to sorting out the welding fixes.
- The old plate bracket mount is history and in with a new Fab Kevin horizontal mount.
- A few other misc tabs will go bye-bye, like the old fender strut tabs.
- A new battery box tray will go in to replace the cave-man welded angle iron that supported the too-large battery BELOW the fuckin frame rails.
- I'll sort out the tank and weld on the new brackets in the rear and lower the fronts.
- Fit up the new(ish) OG WCC fender I got, Rigid Two-Eight same as my other bike but this time I don't have to re-radius the fucker!!!!
- Fab up simple round bar fender struts with counter bore bungs.

That about covers the welding and Fab for the most part. I've got a ton of ideas bouncing around for motor mods, might be changing wheels... etc. My Twisted Choppers springer won't be here till the end of the month, they are still waiting on a new bender to arrive. No worries, I have plenty to keep me busy for at least three weeks.

BTW, the fenders, front end, and other things are already up on eBay!

Aussiechop 01-14-2013 02:56 AM

Great work man, I'm jealous you get to do this!

Choppa 01-16-2013 07:43 PM

Please cut that rear fender and get rid of the "dog dick red "..... :LOL:

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by Choppa (Post 1210815)
Please cut that rear fender and get rid of the "dog dick red "..... :LOL:

One step ahead of ya Choppa... see Soda Blasted pics below :D

I'm not a big fan of 'dog dick red', but don't think I'll be painting this bike vagina pink either! :LOL:

The tank didn't get blasted, its just sitting there looking good...

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:18 PM

Here are some close up shots of welds and other details... gives you a good idea how great the soda cleans off paint, bondo and other shit without damaging the base metal.

And without the flash...

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:22 PM

Here are the pipes after soda blast... turns out they are stainless for sure. Jon from Ledbetter Choppers told me he did no make them... all of his and the WCC pipes are stepped. These are 1.75 OD all the way. So I still have no idea who made them, but the bends are identical to WCC SS pipes and the TIG welds are tight... I'd say its a shame to cut them but since it is really a knock off I don't feel bad, not yet anyway ;-)

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:25 PM

This is a SPUTHE trans case I picked up cheap. I was going to have it polished and maybe put a 6 speed into it, but I discovered a small issue. My stock Harley starter wont fit, nor will my Spyke... The hole in the dog ear is too small, and notice how its is stepped too. Am I going crazy? I'm pretty darn sure this is a 5 speed case... I called Sputhe, no answer or call back...

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:31 PM

In case any equipment heads wanted to see what the Soda Blast rig looks like... Its on a 16ft trailer, you can blast anywhere because baking soda is environmentally friendly.

CloudDiver 01-16-2013 09:33 PM

Wheels got a cleaning... they are for sale if anyone wants to throw me an offer...

*** SOLD & Shipped out Today w/ the front fork and WCC fenders ***

Aussiechop 01-18-2013 03:31 AM

Love it man.

CloudDiver 01-18-2013 10:33 AM

Did some work on the frame last night... cut off the bad plate mount tabs and battery box tabs. There was anouther tab under the right side axle that i think was and old brake heim joint mount. I left the tab in front of the right side trans support which will be good for an exhaust bracket or even a chassis ground.
I'll have a new battery tray in a week or so to weld in. A few other small weld repairs and re-mounting the gas tank should be easy stuff... the only mock up challenge will be the rear fender. The radius of the old mount does not match the new fender, so I have to cut if off and re-shape it, then weld back on. I have not made up my mind yet if I will use frame bungs or fender struts but I need one or the other along with the center mount.

CloudDiver 01-19-2013 08:28 PM

The word on the engine...
So I got a hold of the original owner of the bike, and he gave me the name of the shop that did the motor. Long story short, I don't have to do a damn thing to the motor. The heads have already been ported and valves done. I knew there was 10:1 Weisco pistons from the build sheet but I had no idea what cam or anything else. So I called Lee's Speed Shop Home and he had me read him off the numbers that were stamped beside the front cylinder intake port. From those numbers he could tell it had the 'Pro Street' port and 5 angle valve job in 2006. He didn't have the documents but from that he knew there would be somewhere around a .6 lift cam, probably a Redshift 595.
I opened up the points cover and sure enough there was a Crane Hi-4 ignition module in there...sweet. So basically the motor only needs new gaskets and I can take the heads and jugs to be polished while the top end is apart. I'll polish the cases by hand...

Well, that info just saved me time and money. All I have to do now is get the right 2 into 1 exhaust on there, a proper air cleaner, go to the dyno for jetting and tuning and this Evo should put out around 92-96 hp is my best guess...

flysocal77 01-23-2013 03:29 PM

If you suspect your rear end is modified just measure your axle. Should be 11" on a stock 200 CFL

CloudDiver 01-24-2013 10:41 PM

[quote=flysocal77;1211343]If you suspect your rear end is modified just measure your axle. Should be 11" on a stock 200 CFL

Yup... Mine is 11.75"
So the frame has def been widened. It didn't specifically spell that out on the invoice copy I got from Precision Metal Fab Racing, but I had my suspicions.

Once I got a real good look at the original set up before I took the bike apart it seems this was done for two reasons;
He wanted to run a pulley with a 200 tire when the CFL was designed to go 180 with a pulley or 200 with a chain. There was a 180 on it when I got it but it was way too skinny for the fender and the gap between the tire and the belt left plenty of room for a 200.
Also he wanted to run a molded seat pan that had a tapered front, see in the pics below, where the bends on a regular CFL frame lends to a squared off front on molded seats.

CloudDiver 01-24-2013 10:51 PM

So the issues at hand are a widened frame and the transmission mounts have been moved;

CloudDiver 01-24-2013 10:52 PM

CloudDiver 01-24-2013 10:59 PM

There is still a .5 inch spacer between the engine and the primary backing plate, but I noticed there is no off-set behind the pulley on the transmission... and everything was lined up between wheel hub, pulley, belt, to trans pulley...
So the spacing may be different with my new wheels but it'll be a matter of rear wheel pulley spacing and everything should line back up... I hope.

Oh, BTW... I think the whole idea of 'Budget Build' is out the window... I think I'm now going to call this bike "Low Budget to No Budget"!
Then again, according to my nerdy spreadsheet of cost of new parts vs. what I'm making selling off the old stuff I should only end up about $2500 cash out of pocket on this build. Time will tell if that holds true because now I am considering chroming the frame ;-)

Here are my new wheels... PM Wrath

flysocal77 01-25-2013 08:35 AM

2500 and counting. I'll put 20 bucks on 20K just to piss you off. Bring your receipts to the LBC when the budget bikes face off. The wrath wheels are killer, my favorite PM design. You stole them but far cry from budget, those are top shelf!

Hardluck13 01-25-2013 09:25 PM

Where did you get the wheels?

CloudDiver 01-26-2013 06:17 PM


Originally Posted by Hardluck13 (Post 1211567)
Where did you get the wheels?

I got the rear wheel as a set with a front 18 x 3.5 that I will re-sell. $1000 for the set but it came with matching rotors and pulley. I got a new front 21 x 21.15 from Rider's Discount, $1000... So $2200 for everything minus whatever I can sell that 18x3.5 front for, maybe $400.

SOCAL 01-27-2013 09:01 AM

Your gonna have 20 grand into this thing. So much for the budget build. Don't feel bad I'm on the same boat.[/quote]
I need to teach you guys how to do a low budget build. :cool: :LOL:

FRANKTHECRANK 01-27-2013 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1211475)

Great choice,........I have the same on my Fatboy. Not an in-expensive wheel for sure but, quality is second to none.

CloudDiver 01-29-2013 10:47 PM

A quick update...
So I was a little bummed today when I found out Twisted Choppers still does not have their new bender yet, so my springer fork is delayed even longer...

Without the front end I'm not getting the roller together to go up on the lift so I'll just give you a sneak peek at the ass end...

I got the rubber on earlier today and set up the axle spacing... pretty easy in this case. The PM hubs and the PM rear brake caliper pretty much do everything on their own, only one .75 inch spacer on the left and thats it.
I can still feel a little play but that will be taken up later by the chrome. I also see that the tire needs to move a hair to the left, maybe .2 at the most so I'll get another taller top-hat spacer that fits out-board of the brake caliper bracket; I had to do the same thing on my other CFL.

Fender dropped in just fine but I don't think I'm using this one. I want it to come back a bit more, like 11 o'clock looking at the right side. I also don't like the chain/belt cut out on this one. Probably do a B'Cool (10 to 12 gauge) or a Twisted Choppers (13 gauge). No need to fuss with internal struts with metal that stout and I'll have round bar struts in the back anyway.

So from here it will probably be another two weeks to get all the parts together and get the full roller. I'm gonna hold off on the pics until then because there will be a huge difference between the way it was and how it will look soon.

For now... the start of mock up;

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 01-30-2013 08:07 PM

I make this.

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 01-30-2013 08:13 PM

And this.

CloudDiver 01-30-2013 09:11 PM

Thanks for the suggestion, but my rear wishbone has been widened by .75" and I'm running a 200 tire with a 1.5" pulley (yes, it actually fits)... So I don't think the web struts are going to match up right. Also, I'm running a Springer in front so no fender there.


Originally Posted by TWOWHLSIRVIVR (Post 1211979)

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