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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (http://www.clubchopper.com/forums/west-coast-chopper-builds/99345-ugly-betch-new-episode-cfl-rehab-new-ish-build-thread.html)

CloudDiver 04-28-2013 11:08 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fbf99df.jpg

CloudDiver 04-28-2013 11:08 PM

http://i1192.photobucket.com/albums/...ps783fdc0a.jpg

Aussiechop 04-29-2013 04:51 AM

very. fuckin'. cool. Any chance of getting some videos of this bad boy?

beastlightnbs 04-29-2013 07:43 AM

Damn! Nice work Cloud!

1badHD 04-29-2013 08:06 AM

Looking good man!!!! Nice work.

CloudDiver 04-29-2013 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussiechop (Post 1219342)
very. fuckin'. cool. Any chance of getting some videos of this bad boy?

My Engine guy, Mark, will warranty his work as long as I let him do the first start up, so as soon as the exhaust goes on it will go to his shop for break-in and a dyno pull. The motor does not really need 'break-in' since it already has 6400 miles on it, but getting the right temperature at the heads, but not too hot, will set the new top end gaskets properly.

I plan on taking some video while it is on the dyno... Stay tuned.

HellionsMC 04-29-2013 12:55 PM

Damn sharp looking build

flysocal77 04-29-2013 09:12 PM

Man I just looked at page one again. Its not the same bike. Frame, engine and tranny is about all thats left. Bike came out fantastic and in fairly short order. One to be proud of for sure.

flysocal77 04-29-2013 09:37 PM

Wiring looks great-even shrink matches wire. I'm gonna tackle that next. Where did you get the wire and connectors? What gauge wire did you use?

CloudDiver 04-30-2013 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1219495)
Wiring looks great-even shrink matches wire. I'm gonna tackle that next. Where did you get the wire and connectors? What gauge wire did you use?

I robbed some of the wire from the Scooter's kit... There is enough wire in that kit for 2 bikes! I ditched the marine breakers and got that fuse box, made by Namz and used LED fuses (they light up if they blow). Most of the wire is 18 gauge I think, the thicker stuff on the 30 amp circuit is 12 gauge.

All the shrink wrap came in nice box of multiple colors from Fry's Electronics. I also bough another box almost just like it but it has the triple thick adhesive lined stuff. The quick disconnects are standard male-female packs from any hardware store.

CloudDiver 04-30-2013 02:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flysocal77 (Post 1219495)
Wiring looks great-even shrink matches wire. I'm gonna tackle that next. Where did you get the wire and connectors? What gauge wire did you use?

I robbed some of the wire from the Scooter's kit... There is enough wire in that kit for 2 bikes! I ditched the marine breakers and got that fuse box, made by Namz and used LED fuses (they light up if they blow). Most of the wire is 18 gauge I think, the thicker stuff on the 30 amp circuit is 12 gauge.

All the shrink wrap came in nice box of multiple colors from Fry's Electronics. I also bough another box almost just like it but it has the triple thick adhesive lined stuff. The quick disconnects are standard male-female packs from any hardware store.

250CFL 04-30-2013 10:25 AM

Bike came out nice so far man, good work! Couple questions (just curious) are you going to fab a cover for the battery box, and why did you stay with the belt final drive? Oh and ditch those fugly allen screws on your axle covers... :3dSMILE:

CloudDiver 04-30-2013 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 250CFL (Post 1219520)
Bike came out nice so far man, good work! Couple questions (just curious) are you going to fab a cover for the battery box, and why did you stay with the belt final drive? Oh and ditch those fugly allen screws on your axle covers... :3dSMILE:

The axle covers are not counter bored for the tapered head screws... So those are just #6/32 button heads, not much I can do about it.

I stayed with the belt final becuase the frame had been specifically modified to make it possible to run a belt with a 200 tire; No other 'stock' CFL can do that. If I went to a chain it would look wierd with an extra .75 of spacer, plus no chain grease slinging all over the wheel. I don't have to worry about the 80" Evo putting too much power on the belt like you would with a big inch motor. Another plus, the Transmission came with a 32 tooth pullley sprocket installed, so no need to change to an off-set sprocket.

I was going to make a cover for the battery box but the way my oil lines are routed gets in the way. I'm going to use some small zip ties to tighten stuff up in there and I'll look into some method of making a cover and get around the oil lines and clutch line if I can.

250CFL 04-30-2013 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CloudDiver (Post 1219524)
The axle covers are not counter bored for the tapered head screws... So those are just #6/32 button heads, not much I can do about it.

I stayed with the belt final becuase the frame had been specifically modified to make it possible to run a belt with a 200 tire; No other 'stock' CFL can do that. If I went to a chain it would look wierd with an extra .75 of spacer, plus no chain grease slinging all over the wheel. I don't have to worry about the 80" Evo putting too much power on the belt like you would with a big inch motor. Another plus, the Transmission came with a 32 tooth pullley sprocket installed, so no need to change to an off-set sprocket.

I was going to make a cover for the battery box but the way my oil lines are routed gets in the way. I'm going to use some small zip ties to tighten stuff up in there and I'll look into some method of making a cover and get around the oil lines and clutch line if I can.

Well that all makes sense. I figured you had already considered all of the above.

CloudDiver 05-01-2013 10:01 AM

Well, despite my efforts to get this on the road I'm taking a break for several days. I dropped off the pipes for polish and they wont be done till next week. Oh well, I need a break anyway. Riding this weekend or next weekend just isn't a big deal.

I ran into a new problem. My headlight decided to stop working. I think its a bad switch. It worked fine multiple times, hi/lo indicator light works as well as both beams. Then suddenly no headlight at all but the hi/lo indicator light comes on if I'm in hi or lo setting... So, probably a bad switch. I'm using the 'Radio Shack' 3 way micro switch but I'm not sure it can handle the task, or I just got a shitty one.

I haven't checked the healight lamp yet to see if I actually blew it or not, which I doubt. Luckily the headlight is on its own circuit witch insulated disconnects, so its not too big a deal to check things or replace them. Might drop down to a 10 amp fuse for that circuit, same with tail light which also has a dedicated circ.

Using the same brand of switch, but an on/off for a kill switch. If that one fails I loose ignition positive... Another reason to find a better brand/style switch!

I'll figure it out, but I'm going to look for a more stout switch in the mean time.


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