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-   -   Ugly Betch! New Episode of CFL REHAB... A new(ish) build thread. (

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:53 AM

Who ever said "All that Glitters is Not Gold" doesen't fucking have any...

Yes, the Neck Badge is gold plated!

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:54 AM

The ignition module loom below the trans plate before I ran it up the seat tube, most of the terminations are complete. I'll add quick disconnects for the stop light pressure switch and a few other details later.

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 12:59 AM

This is where I got stuck, but figured it out using the 12 gauge wire for the ignition switch and what not... Anyway, the Ignition module loom comes up the seat tube and out, the ignition Switch loom goes in the back bone and out behind the motor mount, the headlight wires come all the way down the backbone and the the thick tube on the right is the hidden hydraulic clutch line... Tighter than a virgin's honey-pot, but it all fits and have just enough space to pull things back and fourth a little if I need slack.

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:01 AM

Throttle and headlight wires hidden in frame on left side. Throttle cable comes out right behind the motor mount straight to carb throttle body.

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:01 AM

Same with the clutch line on the right;

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:02 AM

I'll put all the pics of this in the rust paint thread, but the tank and fender are cooking, this is a few hours after the patina reaction was started;

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 01:06 AM

This is how I left her; front end is on, motor and trans are in, wiring is about half done. Most of what is left is doing the terminations in the battery box, etc.

Before I go any further I need the new transmission studs... can't do anything else with the oil tank/battery box until the trans goes back into place. Also have to figure out the clutch slave problem.
To hell with bike week, I guess I'll be riding the Duc.

Aussiechop 04-01-2013 05:18 AM

Fuckin cool man, love your work, the tubes in the neck are a cool idea.

CloudDiver 04-01-2013 10:02 AM


Originally Posted by Aussiechop (Post 1217541)
Fuckin cool man, love your work, the tubes in the neck are a cool idea.

I can't take credit for those, the bike came to me that way. My buddy Luke (another CFL owner) asked if I could run the throttle and brake lines in there. I wan't sure when he asked, so I looked into it. I knew that the banjo fittings would not pass through, but then I found Magnum Build Your Own Brake Line kits, they make it possible.

Magnum Shielding - Custom Harley Davidson Cables and Braided Brake Lines

Any bike I do in the future will probably use this method. Only draw back is that you cannot remove the clutch line once it is in place, but how often does the line itself fail? You can still replace the banjo fittings if anything goes wrong. Worst case, a whole new line plus fittings is about $75.

flysocal77 04-01-2013 10:56 AM

Looks like your gonna beat me on at least 1/2 bikes. The rust will look damn good on this bike since all the other parts are top quality and finish. Some hotdog stripes and clear coat and we have a winner. Shoot some close of pics of wire connectors, I need some ideas for my builds. Want to make everything easy to disconnect and not sure what to go with.

1badHD 04-01-2013 02:11 PM

Damn I love that frame!!! Lookin good man. Paint would look killer with some stripes and clear coat.

WCCrider 04-01-2013 05:05 PM




ezriders66 04-02-2013 01:03 PM

Looking good!

CloudDiver 04-04-2013 11:32 AM

Rear axle clearance issues...
As expected the nickle plating added some thickness to the rear axle area, but maybe more than I anticipated.

We all would expect to have to remove paint but I didn't think I'd have to sand back the plating because it is thinner. So right now my rear brake bracket will not fit. My new Pulley spacer is on the way, it is 1 & 1/8" thick, which is .056" or 1.425 mm thinner than 30mm spacer I used in mock up.

I don't want to sand back the nickle but I may have to. The 1 & 1/8 spacer will move the wheel to the left 1.425 mm, which is needed, but won't change the pulley position. My belt is lightly rubbing the transmission, however I'm confident that when I replace the trans studs and get the drive line re-centered it will shift a little right and bring back the clearance I had during mock up. I'm about 80% confident right now it will all work out. My biggest worry is actually the belt clearing the fender cut-out. In mock up it cleared perfectly with a little more space than I needed, even considering paint. I was going to shave it another .15 but opted not to... now I wish I had. I'd hate to have to shave that fender cut-out after it has been nickle plated and painted, but I may have no choice.

TWOWHLSIRVIVR 04-07-2013 05:45 PM

When is HotDog sending back the tins?

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