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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:28 PM
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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:29 PM
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:30 PM
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:43 AM
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Looking at things seriously...

I'm taking a good hard look at my work schedule over the next few weeks along with cash I have available for the build and bills I have to pay...

I really wanted to have this done for AZ Bike Week, to hell with the bike show, just to be able to ride it.
Its going to cost me at least $500 to register this thing, and thats only if the DMV does not screw me over and make me do the full 3 ring circus even if this is already a titled bike. I have to keep in mind that my Truck and other bikes come up for renewal in May and that usually runs me about $500 per year.
The only I have left to buy parts wise is the Brembo hand controls and Banjo fittings, I already have 12 ft of brake line but might need 3 ft more for the rear brake. I also have to pay $300 for the body work/primer on the tank and fender when they are ready, probably tomorrow.

So, all that taken into consideration, I don't think Bike Week is worth killing myself over time wise, and even worse spending money I don't have and risking going broke. Better off taking my time on the assembly, going to DMV late next month with cash in hand and not worries about a schedule to keep.

Fuck... maybe I'm just feeling shitty because I'm tired as hell and trying to assemble, test fire, dyno, and ride a bike in 8 days is pretty unrealistic at this point. I think recognizing that if you are biting off more than you can chew before it happens will keep you from choking
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 08:16 PM
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Do the body work prep yourself!
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ALWAYS FUCKINITUPAGAIN!
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2013, 10:11 AM
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Game On mother-fuckers... Game On...

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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 12:44 PM
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Transmission studs too short...

Trying to decide what to do in the next few hours.

When they moved the transmission mounts over 3/4 inch to the left they welded the old slots shut and made new ones, but they are not counter-bored. The problem with that is that the transmission studs aren't long enough to grab enough thread.

I went down to the hardware store and the only thing I could get are 7/16 coarse thread automotive grade 8 studs. The trans studs are 7/16-14 x .5" and step to 3/8-24 x .75"

I already know the 7/16 studs will still slip through the trans plate slots. All I have to do is trim both ends to the right length and should be good to go.

I can order ARP studs that are the correct 7/16-14 to 3/8-24 for about $40, probably have them Tuesday. I guess I just need to decide if the 7/16 studs will cause any kind of alignment issues or not. I'm pretty certain my shims wouldn't fit...

I have a lot of work to do before i lock down the transmission... So I guess i can think about it. In the long run if I have enough other stuff to do between now and Tuesday (or Wednesday) I think I can hold off and order what is 'stock correct', only that the 3/8-24 side will be just .25 longer.
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudDiver View Post
Trying to decide what to do in the next few hours.

When they moved the transmission mounts over 3/4 inch to the left they welded the old slots shut and made new ones, but they are not counter-bored. The problem with that is that the transmission studs aren't long enough to grab enough thread.

I went down to the hardware store and the only thing I could get are 7/16 coarse thread automotive grade 8 studs. The trans studs are 7/16-14 x .5" and step to 3/8-24 x .75"

I already know the 7/16 studs will still slip through the trans plate slots. All I have to do is trim both ends to the right length and should be good to go.

I can order ARP studs that are the correct 7/16-14 to 3/8-24 for about $40, probably have them Tuesday. I guess I just need to decide if the 7/16 studs will cause any kind of alignment issues or not. I'm pretty certain my shims wouldn't fit...

I have a lot of work to do before i lock down the transmission... So I guess i can think about it. In the long run if I have enough other stuff to do between now and Tuesday (or Wednesday) I think I can hold off and order what is 'stock correct', only that the 3/8-24 side will be just .25 longer.
go ahead and finish other areas of the bike... good move on ordering the longer studs. if you didn't it would just haunt you when its time to line things up...
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pop 28 View Post
go ahead and finish other areas of the bike... good move on ordering the longer studs. if you didn't it would just haunt you when its time to line things up...
Yup... the day is winding down and I am still messing with electrical stuff (that I hope to finish tonight). i have so many other things to do that replacing the trans studs can wait until I get the new ones Tuesday or even Wednesday.
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 01:02 AM
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Well, to hell with Bike week... I still need a few parts, short on cash, and now I'm having real problems threading the last electrical run through the back-bone. Even if I had every day to work over the next week and half I don't think it'll happen.

I need to step back, take a breath, and re-think this... I'm just gonna take take my time, there will be other bike events. Fuck.
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  #221 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:28 AM
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Need some electrical info...

Ok, before I can go any further I have to get one last run of 4 wires from the hole at the rear of the backbone up to and out the middle hole just behind the motor mount, but I have no room!

The wires coming up the seat tube have the white ignition signal, brown for the tach (but going to an hour meter), black for the oil pressure, and green for VOES. Even with those the Volt Reg wire won't fit and I have to re-route that.

The 4 wires that need to go still where I have no room I mentioned first, the VOES wire needs to continue to Motor Mount, and then the Green Ignition, Red Accessory Power, and 2 other wires to the Pollack Marine Ignition switch.
I'm using some of the wiring from the Scooters Wire Harness kit, and some existing wire from the bikes components.

I need to to 2 things if I can;
- Back the harness down the seat tube and reduce the gauge of some of the wires to help make more room. I can do this by finding out what the minimum gauge I can use is on the Oil Pressure Switch wire and VOES signal wire?
- Also, when I run the last wire group to the ignition switch I need to use the minimum gauge allowable to make room. The green wire in the Scooters Wire kit for Ignition Switch to Starter if like 12 or 14 gauge. How far down in size can I go on that? Does that wire carry a lot of current or is just sending a signal to Starter Solenoid?

If I can reduce the wire sizes to make the wire runs tighter this won't work and I'll have to find alternate wire routing runs... Not happy abut that idea.
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  #222 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 12:26 PM
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Ok, reduced the ignition module loom that goes up the seat tube (took VOES wire out and smaller gauge on the oil pressure switch signal wire) and ran it back through, that gives me more room to run the set of wires to the ignition switch.
I only need the bare minimum gauge I can get away with and they should fit, so if anyone knows and can say for sure let me know and I might get these wires done!
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  #223 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 04:04 PM
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i can't help you on the starter wire gauge. i use a key on key off and a push button solenoid cover.. it simplifies the starter wiring, ever thing else is 18 gauge wire
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  #224 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:50 AM
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The story so far... in pictures.

Long weekend... Tackled the wiring issue; dominated that bitch. My happiness was short lived, the PM hydraulic clutch cover won't fit the Primo 6 Speed Trans, long story, more on that later...

I've done a lot of shit but neglected posting many pictures, so here is a re-cap from Friday through Sunday;

The frame in all it's Nickel Glory;

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  #225 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:51 AM
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The plating makes my welds look damn good... It also makes any mistakes stick out like a sore thumb!



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