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CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:08 AM

Race it on Sunday, Sell it on Monday... My 4 up CFL Build
My CFL build started like many others; Back in 2005 I ordered my 4 up CFL frame and a few other parts during the 10 year WCC anniversary sale.
I ended up going to Iraq from Nov of 05 to July of 06. When I got home I ordered my engine from Accurate Engineering and I went to the LBC to pick up my frame and parts when they were ready.
Ok, so now it's almost 6 YEARS later... What the hell happened? Well, if you've read some of my other threads you'll know I had major issues with the engine builder and I had to hire a lawyer to get him to cough up my motor, see

I made another trip to the middle east after 2007, bought a house, got a dog, had and lost a girlfriend or two... and so it goes while my CFL sat high on a big shelf in the back of my garage...

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:13 AM

So what have I been doing all that time (at least with motorcycles)...?
Well... This;
I'm not happy unless I'm hitting corners over 80 and dragging my inside knee all the way around... I've never had so much fun on a bike since I started track riding in 2009.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:24 AM

A few things you have to know about me because it relates to this build...
I don't call myself a 'biker'... I don't have tattoos or a beard, and I'm really not a very big guy to begin with. I hate labels and I don't like buying into or trying to fit into anyone else's scene. You will never, ever, ever catch me with one of those fawking stick-on mohawks on my helmet! I've always just been myself and done my own thing.
I love all things mechanical, typical boyish fascination with anything that clicks, twists, pops, bangs, or zooms... Cars, bikes, guns... hell I even love dozers and cranes.
I also value a strong work ethic and the desire to do things right the first time. It's something my father told me that will always ring true in my ear until the day I die; "Never do a half-ass job!"
What attracted me to JJ and WCC wasn't all the hype and the cool factor that all the low-self esteem social leaches suddenly latched onto... It was JJ's value on true craftsmanship. Getting shit right the first time and genuine hand-built quality. If you don't want to invest yourself into what you are doing in that sense, why even bother?
So that's why I picked the CFL frame... I liked the simplicity, style, and functional geometry that was made by someone who gives a shit.

Aussiechop 07-24-2012 05:33 AM

Cool man, look forward to seeing what you come up with. Anymore pics of your race bike? As I type this I'm trying to find a late model GSXR 600 or 1000.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:34 AM

This was my ride from October 06 until Feb 2012... 07 FLHRS Road King Custom. I bought it fresh out the crate when the 07's came out with the 96" motor and factory six-speed. I put the hard bags on, Vance & Hines touring ovals, Bassani Headers, fog lamps and few other gizmos... still no GPS or cup-holder! (although the GPS could have come in handy).
It was painted by Kevin Norton in San Marcos, CA... BUT Hot Dog probably did the pin-striping. I still have to email the pics to him to verify but he told me he had done many pin-striping jobs for Kevin... we'll see. Anyway, I sold it this spring because I just wasn't riding much. I spent most of my seat time on the track and with the upcoming CFL build I knew it was going to be neglected more... So I took her to San Diego HD to find her a new home. If you knew how much I spent on the bike, parts, and paint you'd cry if I told you how much I actually sold it for. Or you'd shoot me... and then cry... and then shoot my stinking carcass again...

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:40 AM

Just so you know... I like black. I don't dress in black every day and I sure as the fuck don't wear black eye-liner! But when it comes to cars and bikes, I like the dark side. After owning 2 Harley's with miles of chrome (my first was a 2003 Anniversary Sportster 1200), I am sick of chrome. So even on my truck I ditched the chrome 20's, stripped the chrome badging and letters.... everything. Funny thing is, my CFL will not be black!

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:44 AM

So back to the build...
Earlier this spring I got a wild ass hair to finally finish my CFL. In reality I think its because I'm working in Phoenix and I miss home in San Diego like no other, so I keep myself going and my head in the right place by doing this stuff. This is what I had back in late March,

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:48 AM

Once I got things rolling on finally getting my engine done I ordered my transmission from Baker and put it into a JIMs case I got off eBay.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:49 AM

The top cover is smoked bullet proof plastic;

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:53 AM

I didn't like the WCC peanut tank I had, it looked too small on the 4 up back-bone. So I took a Sporty King Tank I had and sent it to Greg Westbury for a low tunnel and Frisco, see my thread

The WCC Peanut tank is on the right, my new tank on the left;

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 05:56 AM

About the same time that I ordered my Baker Transmission I also ordered my Wheels, Rotors, and Sprocket from Performance Machine. It took just over two months to get them, and it turns out they made the wrong size front wheel... but they still look cool as hell and PM is making the correct size front that I should get back soon.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 06:00 AM

On the last weekend of June, after so much frustration and losing a lot of sleep, I finally got my engine and slung her into the frame;

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 06:05 AM

First big fabrication problem I ran into was my rear fender. The WCC Rigid Two-Eight was made for an 18 inch wheel... mine is a 17. See my thread for the detail on how I got it to fit right.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 06:11 AM

Once I got the shape of the fender sorted out I knew I had to have my chain set up. I wanted to figure out where my axle would land after breaking in the chain before I could mount the fender to the frame; see my thread for the details on setting up the chain and doing the math to see how far back the axle could move.

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 06:20 AM

So this past Friday I took the roller out of my storage garage and brought it just down the road to my house in Phoenix for Mad Fab Weekend... I'll continue there later. Right now its 5:20 am and I need coffee...

CloudDiver 07-24-2012 06:25 AM

Before I go, because AussieChop asked, here is another Race Bike pic, one of my fav's...

chopperfugger 07-25-2012 09:58 AM

Storm Trooper? You nailed it.

Tx51 07-25-2012 10:25 AM

Pics! More pics on build! Lookin good cloud! Goin strong on that build eh...keep them pics comin!

Poop 07-25-2012 11:48 AM

keep up the progress, clouddiver! good work.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 12:16 AM


Originally Posted by chopperfugger (Post 1192104)
Storm Trooper? You nailed it.

Ha Ha! Yeah I get that a lot... Funny thing is, that helmet in the last pic was a really bad choice for track days. That's a Vemar from Italy. I was given one of the first ones imported to the US to test, but it was not intended for racing. I crashed at Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch in NV a few weeks after that pic was taken. Not a really bad crash but enough to fracture my shoulder blade. Anyway, that helmet got lunched and it protected my head just fine but the modular chin bar tore off and my face got a little eaten up by the gravel, no scars tho. The Suomy I have in the first pic is the one I stick with now.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 12:26 AM


Originally Posted by Aussiechop (Post 1191915)
Cool man, look forward to seeing what you come up with. Anymore pics of your race bike? As I type this I'm trying to find a late model GSXR 600 or 1000.

If you want a great sport bike and plan to #1 not spend a lot of money, and #2 possibly track ride stick with the 600's... The GSXR is great and so is the Kawi ZX6R and the Yamaha R6. The 1000's are only faster in a straight line. Guys show up to track days with brand new liter bikes with $5K is stupid shit upgrades and I go on the track and eat their lunch. The 600's are lighter and turn quicker, better on the brakes into a turn and faster on the throttle coming out, thats racing... If you put money into upgrades put into the suspension before anything else. Rebuild your front forks and rear shock for your body weight and style of riding, thats what makes your bike faster, not power mods and lower tooth count front sprocket so you can do wheelies with the squids...
A 2008 or later low miles 600 will give you the most bang for the buck. I can take a bone stock 600 on the track (with race compound tires as the only upgrade) and destroy any liter bike.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 01:20 AM

Ok, so getting back to the build... I put the bike in the truck and brought it back to the house garage to mount the rear fender, seat suspension and gas tank last weekend (Mad Fab Weekend #1).

First Up, the rear fender...
I put my spacing tubing back in and used wood shims to set up the sidewall spacing, with a bungee cord squeezing the rear down.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 01:26 AM

The first Bung to go in is the coped bung that sits on the inside of the left tube. The shortest I could get was 1 inch so i had to shorten it and file in an angle to the cope. So I put a 3/8 bolt into the bench vice, cranked it down tight and then put on a leather washer and threaded on the bung using the the curved side of the file to tighten it down. From there I spent a good hour filing the correct height and angle into the cope with several test fits.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 01:29 AM

Here is the bung welded in. I was only tacking it into place and I realized that once the upper bung was placed on top you wouldn't be able to weld all the way around the lower bung, so I finish welded and smoothed the top side.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 01:57 AM

The rest of the fender bungs were pretty straight forward. Line them up, tack them in. I'm not using the washer welded to fender trick... I have something different up my sleeve which I will reveal after paint during final assembly. For now I will say that I'm using leather washers I got from Low Brow Customs ($5.95 for a bag of 10) and I also used 2 stainless washers to act as spacers to account for paint and bodywork build up.
Here is each side tack welded into place with the washers. I used a sharpie to race the outline of the leather washers and then center punched and drilled the fender bolt holes off the bike, then mounted. You'll notice the radius is still way off in the front, more on that later.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:00 AM

Notice I kept the chain off during this procedure, because the fender is being mounted in the position where the axle will land after chain stretch. Also, the lower bung on this side is short, so i carefully drilled through the frame being careful not to damage the threads of the bung and tapped it again so I can sink a full 1 inch 3/8 stainless bolt from inside the fender.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:09 AM

Up next is the seat and air shock linkage which I got from Bung King; Home page
I lined everything up by eye a few times and used a square to check the cross bar. Greg Westbury cut the cross bar tube and fish mouthed it when he was working on my gas tank, it fit like a glove. Once everything was cool I tacked in the cross bar and the the upper and lower link arms. I had my buddy Adam (who you have seen giving me a hand with the torch and you will see again many times) tack in the link arms while I held them in place. I should have worn a glove, got some slag burns between my fingers, safety first! Anyway, we put a soft moving blanket over the top of the tranny & battery and then a welding blanket. This pic shows I set things up to get spacing and keep things square.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:13 AM

I didn't always get things right the first time... I had to move the link arms after the first attempt because they leaned too far forward to the starter. So I shifted those back a little to keep the shock in a mostly vertical position and have good clearance through its complete arc of travel.
I used a padded clamp to compress the shock to its full down position and then safety wired the linkage together. When I mount the seat I want to make sure I mount it low but have 1/4" of clearance so the seat doesn't bang the fender if I bottom out the shock.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:26 AM

The linkage was ready to receive the seat pan, so I needed to add a a hinge to my seat. I got a long piece of 1/4" x 1" steel, I was going for strength. I remember that the WCC seats had a double pan. My seat pan is pretty stout 10 gauge, and I got two because they were $29. I think doubling them was going to be way overkill, but I still wanted to add strength. So I came up with the idea of making the seat hinge run all the way up the seat pan like a back-bone.
I tacked the steel to flat front of the seat pan with 6 inches off the front for the seat hinge. I had to do it it twice, I didn't get it straight the first time. Then I put it in the vice to bend the steel back-bone around the seat pan. Here is Adam giving me a hand with the torch, heating and bending...

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:31 AM

After I cut off and smoothed the end of the seat back-bone we did a test fit and then decided where it would weld to the hinge set up. Back in the vice we used the torch again to bend a 60 to 65 degree angle. I'll add a gusset in there later.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:36 AM

With the seat pan connected to the front hinge It came to rest on the linkage and used a shim to keep 1/4 to 1/2" in between the burly seat pan back-bone and the rear fender. Then the seat pan tabs lined right up with the linkage and were tacked in.

Here is the seat with the safety wire still holding it in the fully compressed position just floating over the rear fender. The front hinge is tacked right on top of the oil tank mount. Since I have the second seat pan I think I will make a second seat that will have a traditional leather cover, my first seat pan will have a special set-up that is another secret weapon I'll reveal later.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:48 AM

Then I cut the safety wire to let the shock expand and holy shit! That seat is sky high... pretty goofy looking with the bike at rest I think. The last few days I have been wrestling with moving the linkage foreword again to allow it to ride lower and wondering if I will ever bottom out the shock and actually hit the fender with over 100 psi in the shock. I talked to Fox Racing and asked if I could possibly expect that the shock wouldn't really use the last 20% of travel... The dude said I should expect an increased spring rate as the shock compresses but still expect it to use the full length of travel, so moving the linkage to make the seat go lower is setting myself up to smash the fender if I hit a pot-hole. So I came up with an easy solution... With these things in mind; 1. I really like where the linkage is now, I don't want to move closer to the starter again. 2. I wired the shock down when I mounted the seat but I still didn't totally bottom it out, I can bang the fender when I sit on it with no air in the shock. 3. When I sit on it that will pre-load the shock and come to a nice ride height when I set the sag. I put in 80 psi tonight which is cushy but I can still bottom out the shock if I bounce on the seat. 4. What it looks like sitting still is not as important as how it rides. 5. As it is I still have to remove the last 2 inches of seat back-bone in the rear because I can still bottom it out. I have some 1/4" thick rubber pad that I will make a bumper pad with.
So the solution IS... If it really bothers me that the seat pops up this high without my A$$ in it then I'll make a short chain or wire with two stainless S hooks on each end. When I park the bike I'll hook it into the holes on the linkage to keep the shock compressed and the seat low. Tah-dah, Pure fucking magic.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 02:56 AM

I also got the kick-stand tab welded in, I used the Chassis Designs unit, really kick ass.
I decided to mount mine right where the frame cross member meets the left side bottom tube vice other members who mount directly under the front pulley nut. See more details in my thread
I have a Primo Slimline belt drive with Damraider mid controls... I think this position follows the rear pulley real well and I think I can still catch the kick stand with the heel of my boot but I haven't tried yet.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 03:05 AM

Last thing up on Mad Fab Weekend was the Gas tank... and I knew it wasn't going to be easy. Getting everything lined up, level, and welding up-side down can be a bitch. This took a few tries, and to be honest I don't think it is totally right. It is certainly very close with this method, but I am going to check my work later when I break the roller down for finish welding I'll set the bare frame on a good surface, shim to level, and then re-check the level of the gas tank. I'm willing to bet it is off just a hair...
Anyway, here is how I set this up... Again, the soft moving blanket went over the motor and then the welding blanket on top of that. I tacked a steel bar across the frame to set a level on. Then holding the position and eye-balling minor adjustments by hand while Adam tacked the tabs from the bottom.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 03:09 AM

I didn't get many pics of the actual Gas Tank mounting process but here is what it looked like when we finished at the close of Mad Fab Weekend... Fuck I was beat on Sunday night but my adrenaline was pumping too. I put in some long hours but really enjoyed the process and was very happy with the progress.

CloudDiver 07-26-2012 03:11 AM

BTW, it was about 105 average that Friday, so my garage was shit hot too. Luckily we got some rain on both Saturday and Sunday which helped cool things down.

Aussiechop 07-26-2012 04:25 AM

Looking good man, I've had an 07 GSXR 600, loved that bike. Looking to buy something similar.

FRANKTHECRANK 07-26-2012 08:24 AM

Nice progress..............lookin good.

GaeGax 07-26-2012 08:39 AM

Very good ;-)
I like the handlebar and the Gas Tank, I will do the gas cap just a little up.
what's the size of the riser? 4 inch?

Tx51 07-26-2012 10:00 AM

Lookin good cloud....good pics!

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