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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:00 PM
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Got most of the garage cleaned up and reorganized today... Maybe tomorrow I'll actually get some work done on the bike! I did finish the welding cart, which is less of a cart for the welder itself and more for a surface to weld on, at least that's what I'm using it for right now. It will be a good place to sit the frame and turn it upside down on when I am doing the finish welding on the bungs and mounts.
Here is the cart when I busted out the old particle board bottom tray... whoever built this top on the cart did a total crap job...

Once I got the nasty top and post off I cleaned up the solid original dairy cart;

And here is the finished cart.
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 08-05-2012, 10:44 PM
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Some progress made on the rear fender radius tonight. I think it's 90% there. Using my cardboard template I marked the lines and took the metal down with a flap disc on the grinder. I got it very, very close after two passes on each side. Now I want to see if someone locally has a planishing hammer to take some of the waviness out of the sides so less bond will be needed. I'm afraid it might change the shape of the metal a little so I don't want to get the final radius in the sides just yet. I'll pick up some better material (a plastic type of poster-board) to cut a better radius template from that is more accurate than the cardboard.
First pass on the sprocket side... the flare at the rear allows for the fender strut.

After second pass on the brake rotor side. Notice I removed the upper fender bung. I had to move it because the first position interfered with the curve. It's only going North about 1/4 inch.

After the second pass on the sprocket side with the fender strut just sitting in place.


A little more tightening up to do which will be by hand with 80 grit 1.5 inch DA pad on the angle grinder and a files, but after I see about smoothing with a planishing hammer. The green tape makes for an optical illusion. I'll pull the tape off when I eyeball and shape the final radius.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 08-05-2012 at 10:47 PM..
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2012, 09:12 PM
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Before you stick that thing in a planishing hammer, which will do what you want it to.. Keep an eye out for another technique I'll be using that lends itself pretty well to that sort of task specifically.

You can do something called flow forming with a pneumatic hammer and a custom made tip. Two ways to go about it.. You can build jigs out of wood, metal, or whatever you have available and depending on the application (how thick the sheet is, mainly). The other option is to hammer (with the pneumatic hammer) the piece into a leather bag just as you would traditionally. Waaaaay faster and less labor intensive.

If you have a decent compressor you can get the rest of the stuff needed for about 150 bucks at most. It's basically a combination of a planishing hammer and hand forming. But, you can use jig templates to maintain crisp edges while smoothing them out a lot easier than I think you could achieve with a planishing hammer alone.

I'll admit I'm not metal fabricator, and this is an old school technique that may or may not do the same job the planishing hammer would do (although I have no idea how you'd use a jig to form a shape with the hammer) but it'll be something YOU can do and its pretty cheap.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2012, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheIdiomSavant View Post
Before you stick that thing in a planishing hammer, which will do what you want it to.. Keep an eye out for another technique I'll be using that lends itself pretty well to that sort of task specifically.

You can do something called flow forming with a pneumatic hammer and a custom made tip. Two ways to go about it.. You can build jigs out of wood, metal, or whatever you have available and depending on the application (how thick the sheet is, mainly). The other option is to hammer (with the pneumatic hammer) the piece into a leather bag just as you would traditionally. Waaaaay faster and less labor intensive.

If you have a decent compressor you can get the rest of the stuff needed for about 150 bucks at most. It's basically a combination of a planishing hammer and hand forming. But, you can use jig templates to maintain crisp edges while smoothing them out a lot easier than I think you could achieve with a planishing hammer alone.

I'll admit I'm not metal fabricator, and this is an old school technique that may or may not do the same job the planishing hammer would do (although I have no idea how you'd use a jig to form a shape with the hammer) but it'll be something YOU can do and its pretty cheap.
Thanks for the tip... I should post a pic of what exactly I'm wanting to smooth out. If you look at my other thread Radius on rear fender, shrink or slice? you'll see how I sliced the sides of the fender and the reshaped it by welding the slices back together with the fender pressed tighter to the tire. The radius is perfect now, but there is some waviness now on the sides. Not very noticeable but it will take some body filler to flatten it out. More body filler getting too thick could crack, so smoothing the metal now would be lead to less filler. I think for $150 in materials I'd rather just have a metal artist put in 1/2 to an hour hour on the planishing hammer. My only fear is that it might push or pull the metal enough to displace the fender mounting holes. Another complication is that the fender struts are welded in which might make it too tough. Now I wish I had shaped the fender without the struts in, but they did make it much easier to weld. If that is the case I may cut them out so the fender can be smoothed. remaking the struts won't be that hard and I have plenty of metal left.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? Will a planishing hammer make more problems than it solves?
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 06:38 PM
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I think you are doing a good job. I'll be going down this road soon. Still have a few WCC parts to hunt down. Then I'll start on driveline. Thanks for posting your progress!
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 08:51 PM
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I just had good talk with a local hot rod/body/paint shop... The amount of waves in the metal isn't enough, plus the fact I welded in the fender struts doesn't give the metal enough room to move. So basically that was a big mistake. Also, had I gotten my TIG welder before I started that process it would have made better results. He said the MIG welds are way too hard in addition to the fact the internal struts are more or less fused now. Had I gone with TIG welds to close the slices and not put the struts in he could have done about 30 minutes on each side with a hammer and dolly to flatten out the skirts, which would have had minimal waves to begin with and the TIG welds are softer and easier to work.
So, live and learn... he said a good coat of Dura-Glass will do the trick and it shouldn't be that thick, plus it takes a lot of twisting to crack it which a rigid mounted fender shouldn't have an issue with. So, I'll go with what I've got. Luckily I mounted the fender bungs with two stainless washers in addition to the leather washers to allow for body filler. So finish the fine tuning of the skirt curve, mount the fender struts and send it to paint & body... Crossing my fingers!
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2012, 09:23 PM
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dura glass should do well. not so heavy, very strong. sounds like good advice!
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:26 AM
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Looks like I'm going to have to make some changes...

Well, I got the last few components of my eletrical system and due to a compatibility issue I think I have to change my plan on a few things. I got a Motogadget M-Lock which is a wireless RFID key that will take the place of the regular key switch/ignition. Problem is you can't mount that unit within 30cm of the coils, which I had planned to mount mini-coils to the WCC motor mount. So it looks like I'll go back to the standard coil unit and mount under the transmission WCC style. This will change a few things; the routing of the wires from the ignition won't have to enter the frame, I'll have to move my planned location for my digital relay box I had planned to put where the coils are now going... I guess the good news is I have don't have to fudge with making the coil mounts to add to the WCC motor mount keeping a cleaner look. I'll have to buy longer plugwires and sell my mini-coils. Anybody want a brand new in the box set of DynaTek single fire mini coils and black Taylor/Summax plug wires?
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2012, 11:53 PM
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I'm so pissed right now I don't feel much like posting all the pics from this weekend... I got a bolt jammed up in the seat hinge and I'm pretty sure its fucked. I'll do what I can tomorrow to get it out and probably have to replace the threaded bung...
I did get a fair bit of stuff done. The fender radius is finally finished. I'm pretty much calling the rear fender done except for finish welding and some small touch ups. I got my (correct size) from PM wheel mounted and discovered my hub is somewhere between .4 to .6 too wide. The wheel/tire is almost center, I have to go .2 to the rotor side but I need some more spacers. Anyway, the caliper won't line up with the rotor where it is now or when it moves .2 over to be center, only reason is that the hub is too wide. makes sense that the original wheel was the wrong size and that was the same hub that came from that wheel...
I was hopeful that I was getting things done in time to break the roller down for finish welding and have it to Hot Dog by labor day weekend, now I'm not so sure.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 09:40 AM
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 01:56 PM
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Don't worry about it. Hot dog is busy painting mine. Wait in line buddy.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 05:07 PM
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I can't fucking win... Turns out there is most likely nothing wrong with my wheel hub, I was just sent the wrong front brake caliper. This is not PM's fault, it's the vendor's fault. They ordered the six piston caliper part number for 2000-2011 bikes that have 2.75 inch mount spacing. I have (and have always had, and they know this since they ordered my wheels!) a 84-99 front end which has 3.5 inch spacing on the mounts... So I'm pretty sure if I had the right brake caliper in the first place it would have mounted up just fine.
In the long run its not a big deal, I don't need to mess with the brakes until the frame is back from paint anyway. I just wish I could have had it on there to make an accurate measurement for my brake line. Whatever, I'll just get after that pesky stuck bolt tonight and move on to the finishing touches and then break the roller down...
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 09:35 PM
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Ok, so with the mystery solved about the front wheel alignment/hub issues being just the wrong brake caliper (I've really gotten used to wrong parts at this point), I can get back to some updates of what I've gotten done. I didn't feel much like doing any work tonight since I need a break, so all I did today was deal with that stubborn stuck bolt. Luckily I have a spare bung to replace it so I just broke the tack welds and took the bung out. I weld a new one on tomorrow.
So this past weekend I finalized the fender radius. I went to a craft store and got a tool for cutting circles, then i modified it to make really big circles on some thick poster board.
It took me a couple tries to get the exact radius which is larger than the wheel but smaller than the tire sidewall.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 09:37 PM
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Taping up the template to the mounted fender I could make marks with a sharpie to refine the radius. Notice the template doesn't seem to line up in the rear, that's because the radius tapers up where the web struts will mount.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2012, 09:40 PM
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Then I dismounted the fender and went after it with the flap disc on the grinder. I'm no fabricating genius, but if I can claim a skill I will say that I'm surgical with the grinder. I got these edges razor sharp and a near perfect half circle to the naked eye.

There were a few people who saw my first thread about working this fender, and noticed the skirts were all off and wondered if I was happy with that. Nope... but I am fucking thrilled with this...
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