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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:09 AM
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A couple more torch walking beads, I believe I used a smaller rod on one of these.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:11 AM
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Getting a little braver I prepped these two pieces of 1/4 inch and cranked up the amps.

Stuck em pretty good but haven't broken them apart to check penetration depth yet. I'll have to put this one in vice and whack it with a 5 lb hammer...
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:24 AM
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Ok... if I post up every one of my practice beads I'm sure this build thread readership would die... So I'll keep practicing on my own time and post pics when I put finishing beads on the CFL. So back to bike parts; I mounted the Ohlins Steering Damper. I got the arc right and made sure there was not contact with the shock damper to the triple tree. I mounted the clamp to the left fork tube and then bolted the damper body to the clamp, just held the hiem joint on the frame down tube to check the steering through full left to right sweep. I decided that it looked best with the damper body at the same pitch as the bottom tree so I marked the down tube there. I drilled a pilot hole followed by a F bit and tapped 5/16. I bolted in the heim with a stainless washer on each side and checked the motion again, everything looks good. I will eventually drill out the hole larger and weld in a bung there. I want to be sure everything is just right before I do that. I know what you might be saying, "Dude, its on the left side, what about the front brake line?" I knew this, but I was pretty hell bent on the damper being on the left... I don't know if this the best reason, but every race bike I've seen or ridden that has a frame mounted damper has it mounted on the left side... I guess it just feels right. Anyway, I did take the front brake line into consideration and I will check everything before I weld in the bung. I can still move it to the right side of the bike if I really have to.



Last edited by CloudDiver; 08-03-2012 at 12:27 AM..
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 05:37 AM
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I don't understand the benefits of a steering damper.....
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miamio96 View Post
I don't understand the benefits of a steering damper.....
Honestly, on a bar hopper or even a cruiser, they are pretty much useless and a waste of money. A steering damper is mainly used on sport bikes with short wheel bases or if you're running a sidecar. The damper is designed to stop high speed wobble or in the case of a sidecar, low speed wobble. If the trail is dialed in these are no more then added trinket or perhaps just a "look". Course this is just IMHO.....
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:07 AM
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+ it looks like shit on...

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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 07:27 AM
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+ it looks like shit on...

Ya, but I understand his thought process coming from a racing background...but, he's going to be sadly dissapointed if he thinks these things will even remotely perform like a sport or race bike..Even with all his "secret weapons"
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefoot Choppa View Post
Ya, but I understand his thought process coming from a racing background...but, he's going to be sadly dissapointed if he thinks these things will even remotely perform like a sport or race bike..Even with all his "secret weapons"
You're absolutley right... the bike itself will never cut turns like my race bike. Further, the steeing is very solid as is. There is no 'real' need for a stabilizer, but this part along with a few others is just personal touch on my vision of this bike. My 'secret weapon' parts won't make my bike go faster, not one of them... I only call them that because I am just trying to do a few things different, maybe even one or two that have never been done before. I'm also pretty happy that up to this point (especially with the addition of my TIG), I have been able to do 100% of the work myself.
Trust me (and please, no PJD cracks ) I'm not trying to build a 'theme' bike... but my racing background plays a part in what I hope will make my CFL a little different from the rest. I'm sure it will be fast, but to lean on the side of reliability I had my engine builder put a 'less than wild' cam in the motor, Bob Woods W6. If I had went with a W9 i would have more confidence in saying "this is a drag bike, and I will stomp you!"... but I have no plans to try to win drag races, maybe just do a few runs for shits a giggles!
I will say that I've run over a pot hole or some other kind of highway damage a few times on my 07 Road King that shook the front end pretty bad... a stabilizer can absorb some of that, but overall it is a rare occurance.

The only WCC shop bike that I have personally seen with a stabilizer is the El Diablo II Bonneville Streamliner Drag Bike ; see Frank's post "Not the Normal" builds, from WCC
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 01:40 AM
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whatever doesn't make it go faster or stop faster gets left behind ...my 2 cents lol

good luck with the build CD !
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 01:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ->Bullet<- View Post
+ it looks like shit on...

It looks like shit because its mounted backwards...
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 06:01 AM
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I recall Indian Larry mounting his the same way too. Do they function better mounted one way versus the other? Anyway wasn't intended as a bash, good to see you doing something different with your build.

Last edited by HellionsMC; 08-04-2012 at 07:04 AM..
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 01:09 PM
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I recall Indian Larry mounting his the same way too. Do they function better mounted one way versus the other? Anyway wasn't intended as a bash, good to see you doing something different with your build.
Just going by the instructions from Ohlins, frame mounted dampers are mounted with the heim joint to the frame so the damper rod extends out in front of the bike when compressed (handle bars at full left). It wouldn't make a difference in function I guess, but imagine that damper rod hitting the forward cylinder or some other component.
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Old 08-04-2012, 01:24 PM
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This weekend's plan...

I woke up at noon, totally beat up from being in the garage last night till 2 am. I wish I had progress news to post but I am working on two side projects.
I'm rebuilding the welding cart, which I got 90% of it done last night. It's my roommate's cart that he got when he bought his Lincoln MIG. It's a 40 something year old dairy cart, very solid frame and casters, but some hack did a really bad job making the top and the welds were horrible. I'll put up some pics later.
Next, I'm cleaning up in the garage... I reorganized the big heavy duty shelves earlier this week when I had to move them anyway to put in the 240V outlet. Now I'm going to gut and reorganize the work bench and the rest of the shelves. Parts and tools are everywhere and a mess and I need a clean space to work in.
After that, which will probably be Sunday, I'm planning to do the final radius clean up on the rear fender and mount the fender struts. With that done I can do some TIG finish welding on the fender and possibly the seat suspension mounts. That will wrap up fabrication for the most part, just some other small parts after that.
I could have pulled the motor, primary, and trans from the frame last week but I'd like to do another mock up of my mid controls when I get some corrected parts back from KD Engineering.
More to come, I'll put up some pics tonight and tomorrow night.
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudDiver View Post
Just going by the instructions from Ohlins, frame mounted dampers are mounted with the heim joint to the frame so the damper rod extends out in front of the bike when compressed (handle bars at full left). It wouldn't make a difference in function I guess, but imagine that damper rod hitting the forward cylinder or some other component.
They function the same on either side for low speed wobbles.

If you've spent time racing sport bikes, you're aware of what role the dampener plays there.. But not many have ever got into enough trouble to see their limitations.

IF you progress from head shake into a tank slapper because of mechanical failure (I cut a front tire down at about 160 MPH) you don't want that rod rapidly jabbing at your knee and calf which SHOULD be right in that area somewhere.. Because the right move would be to sit on the tank (middle of the bike) to reduce the wobble on you and hopefully allow you to "cleanly" ditch without raking off the clip ons with your knees.

If you'll be riding plenty of wheelies.. I'd always have one. Sitting it down crossed up, no matter the trail, will result in wobble.

Oh, and they typically articulate laterally. They will always work best when controlling the centripetal motion rather than trying to reduce the motion from a single side. The arc is greater (longer) in this direction (left to right side of the bike) and therefor can allow the dampener to better function by slowing the motion in a shorter distance. In a front to rear configuration, the dampener must allow the wheels to travel further from left to right before it begins to control the rate of rebound. It's not an instant dampening effect so it will travel some length before it starts to work. All of this also changes with the heat of the fluid inside it.

Most dampeners cannot be made soft enough to really work the way the pictures show these two set up. In a high speed situation you would actually have the front sliding from side to side rather than wobbling as the dampener tries to do its job. Basically, you get head shake with the front tire screeching at 100+.

All that said.. It'll work for what you want to use it for. But if you wanted to get the most out of it.. Take all that info into consideration.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2012, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheIdiomSavant View Post
They function the same on either side for low speed wobbles.

If you've spent time racing sport bikes, you're aware of what role the dampener plays there.. But not many have ever got into enough trouble to see their limitations.

IF you progress from head shake into a tank slapper because of mechanical failure (I cut a front tire down at about 160 MPH) you don't want that rod rapidly jabbing at your knee and calf which SHOULD be right in that area somewhere.. Because the right move would be to sit on the tank (middle of the bike) to reduce the wobble on you and hopefully allow you to "cleanly" ditch without raking off the clip ons with your knees.

If you'll be riding plenty of wheelies.. I'd always have one. Sitting it down crossed up, no matter the trail, will result in wobble.

Oh, and they typically articulate laterally. They will always work best when controlling the centripetal motion rather than trying to reduce the motion from a single side. The arc is greater (longer) in this direction (left to right side of the bike) and therefor can allow the dampener to better function by slowing the motion in a shorter distance. In a front to rear configuration, the dampener must allow the wheels to travel further from left to right before it begins to control the rate of rebound. It's not an instant dampening effect so it will travel some length before it starts to work. All of this also changes with the heat of the fluid inside it.

Most dampeners cannot be made soft enough to really work the way the pictures show these two set up. In a high speed situation you would actually have the front sliding from side to side rather than wobbling as the dampener tries to do its job. Basically, you get head shake with the front tire screeching at 100+.

All that said.. It'll work for what you want to use it for. But if you wanted to get the most out of it.. Take all that info into consideration.
Very well said... My Damper on the Duc, and most race bikes are in fact mounted across the top, right behind the steering stem. There are a few race bikes like the Desmosedicci, that still have it frame mounted like this, and usually on the left side. On more than one track day I've had some bad head shake when braking hard into a turn and sometimes worse coming out on open throttle. The damper is one of two huge safety upgrades I did to the race bike, the second being a slipper clutch. Both of them have kept me out of trouble where in the past I have nearly crashed, and in one case crashed badly (not having a slipper clutch). On this CFL I doubt it will ever have any real effect, but maybe there might be an odd occasion or two where a chirp in the road cause a little the wobble that the damper will help absorb. Mostly it goes along with my personality and the theme of the bike.
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