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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelster View Post
you got a link for the isr i can't find any with integrated buttons love to see what they look like
found this
Here is the link to ISR sweeden;
ISR Brakes

Here is the link to the vendor in the USA i purchased them from;
Link is directly to all ISR products - Results for ISR

BTW, the pic you linked has the buttons. I guess integrated may be the wrong word, they are add ons but replace the rear half of the clamp.
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2012, 01:55 PM
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I regret not to buy my ISR polished like in this pics
http://www.tolle-engineering.se/modu...7_DSC00003.JPG
Just a thougt for others too.

Last edited by racechopper; 08-01-2012 at 02:08 PM..
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 03:54 AM
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thx that vendor is cheaper then ordering them from the company itself. from what i can see not by much ah and there out of stock lol

Last edited by Nelster; 08-02-2012 at 04:05 AM..
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 09:55 AM
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They never stock them, each order is individaully produced in Sweeden and shipped, which is why I am having to wait about three to four weeks for my hand controls. I asked the same question when I first contacted PowerBarn.
I should have ordered them earlier last month, not having the switches and bottons holds up my progress on dry fitting my electrical system. Oh well, I still have other fab parts to work on until them so it really isn't a big deal.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 01:15 PM
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Seeing all the work you've done getting that rear fender to fit, and getting it mounted and all...I saw your comment about a 21-tooth trans sprocket, and I'm just curious if you've taken the time to calculate what your overall gear ratio will be on this build?
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 02:57 PM
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Dont know if you ever got your electric figured out but what you have is still single phase 240volt system its just a 4 wire plug, which the new dryers require. It consists of 2 hots a neutral and a ground. All you have to do is change the plug in the wall to a 3 wire plug and put the neutral and ground wire on the same terminal on the plug, if you do this you will also need to change the cord on the dryer to the old 3 wire cord. As long as you turn off the breaker for the dryer it wont be hot so you wont get shocked. You can get what you need at Home Depot for under $25 bucks and do it all your self. I am a master electrical in Texas so it will be legit. The 4 wire system is just something new in the code but unless you have some $3000 dollar dryer with a TV in it you dont need a neutral hooked up besides the neutral and ground bar in your electrical panel are already tied together. Let me know if you have any questions
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvette$ View Post
Dont know if you ever got your electric figured out but what you have is still single phase 240volt system its just a 4 wire plug, which the new dryers require. It consists of 2 hots a neutral and a ground. All you have to do is change the plug in the wall to a 3 wire plug and put the neutral and ground wire on the same terminal on the plug, if you do this you will also need to change the cord on the dryer to the old 3 wire cord. As long as you turn off the breaker for the dryer it wont be hot so you wont get shocked. You can get what you need at Home Depot for under $25 bucks and do it all your self. I am a master electrical in Texas so it will be legit. The 4 wire system is just something new in the code but unless you have some $3000 dollar dryer with a TV in it you dont need a neutral hooked up besides the neutral and ground bar in your electrical panel are already tied together. Let me know if you have any questions
A master electrical huh? So after he accomplishes all this he can just plug his 50A welder in and alls good huh?
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coryhebert View Post
Seeing all the work you've done getting that rear fender to fit, and getting it mounted and all...I saw your comment about a 21-tooth trans sprocket, and I'm just curious if you've taken the time to calculate what your overall gear ratio will be on this build?
When I ordered my transmission back in March from Baker I worked out the details with James. We knew what the rear tooth count would be (48) and of course what type of bike and a Baker OD6 gear set, so he made some suggestions on front sprocket and 1st gear ratio... We decided on 21 tooth front and a first gear ratio of .294
This will give me better off the line pull but I would shift into second faster than a 'stock' tall 1st gear... which doesn't matter because I have a reverse (GP style) shift drum, so I'll bang through the gears faster than shit through a goose = Don't even try to drag race me, you will loose!
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvette$ View Post
Dont know if you ever got your electric figured out but what you have is still single phase 240volt system its just a 4 wire plug, which the new dryers require. It consists of 2 hots a neutral and a ground. All you have to do is change the plug in the wall to a 3 wire plug and put the neutral and ground wire on the same terminal on the plug, if you do this you will also need to change the cord on the dryer to the old 3 wire cord. As long as you turn off the breaker for the dryer it wont be hot so you wont get shocked. You can get what you need at Home Depot for under $25 bucks and do it all your self. I am a master electrical in Texas so it will be legit. The 4 wire system is just something new in the code but unless you have some $3000 dollar dryer with a TV in it you dont need a neutral hooked up besides the neutral and ground bar in your electrical panel are already tied together. Let me know if you have any questions
See my thread Power for 230V miller TIG welder
Got it done yesterday, about $50 in parts from Home Depot, I did the grunt work but had an Electrician standing over my shoulder the whole time with 200 amp main switched OFF...
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 04:53 PM
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Some Progress...

Today was less progress in actual work but I got some things I need to move foreword, check it out;
Got the correct front wheel from PM (but they shipped the hubs in a separate box that left L.A. two days later... I'm over being pissed about it, I won't mount the tire until the weekend anyway )
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:09 PM
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And the brakes... I was going to use Brembo CNC calipers (see pic below) but I would have had to custom fab mounting brackets for front and rear because the mounting dimensions on the Brembo's are 40mm. I'm happy I changed my mind, no special brackets and there is a 'secret weapon' part that will be associated with the rear brake that I will get into later in the build. For now, I got kick as brake calipers in the Black Ops that match my wheels... Bitchin


Here is a pic of the Brembo front caliper I was going to use. It costs more alone than both my front and rear PM calipers... Killer stopping power and looks sweet to boot, but like I said I would have had to make special mount adapters, still spend another grip on the rear, and these are designed for 320mm rotors. Too many variables to fuck with, so this one is for sale...

(This is a stock pic, I can't find one that I took with my iPhone)
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:11 PM
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Another 'secret weapon' part came in, but if you have seen these before its pretty easy to figure out. I know of at least one shop built WCC that has one...
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:12 PM
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And yet another secret weapon part, but there is no secret about coils, and nothing new about 'where' I am going to mount them... but there is a twist you'll see later.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2012, 05:15 PM
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That's about it for today. I got a bottle of argon and some new tungsten for my TIG. Tonight I'll be working on getting my machine dialed in and practice some beads. This weekend should be pretty eventful. I hope to finalize the radius trimming on the rear fender and get the struts mounted. If I get that far I'll move on to fab'ing the last few things which will allow me to pull the drive train and start dry running the electrical components. We'll see how it goes!
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 12:08 AM
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Ok, that's not it for today... Haha. Was running some practice beads with the TIG.
Top bead sucks, machine not dialed in yet. Second bead is walking the torch with no filler.
Bottom bead is walking with filler rod, more amps.
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