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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:36 AM
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With the seat pan connected to the front hinge It came to rest on the linkage and used a shim to keep 1/4 to 1/2" in between the burly seat pan back-bone and the rear fender. Then the seat pan tabs lined right up with the linkage and were tacked in.

Here is the seat with the safety wire still holding it in the fully compressed position just floating over the rear fender. The front hinge is tacked right on top of the oil tank mount. Since I have the second seat pan I think I will make a second seat that will have a traditional leather cover, my first seat pan will have a special set-up that is another secret weapon I'll reveal later.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:48 AM
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Then I cut the safety wire to let the shock expand and holy shit! That seat is sky high... pretty goofy looking with the bike at rest I think. The last few days I have been wrestling with moving the linkage foreword again to allow it to ride lower and wondering if I will ever bottom out the shock and actually hit the fender with over 100 psi in the shock. I talked to Fox Racing and asked if I could possibly expect that the shock wouldn't really use the last 20% of travel... The dude said I should expect an increased spring rate as the shock compresses but still expect it to use the full length of travel, so moving the linkage to make the seat go lower is setting myself up to smash the fender if I hit a pot-hole. So I came up with an easy solution... With these things in mind; 1. I really like where the linkage is now, I don't want to move closer to the starter again. 2. I wired the shock down when I mounted the seat but I still didn't totally bottom it out, I can bang the fender when I sit on it with no air in the shock. 3. When I sit on it that will pre-load the shock and come to a nice ride height when I set the sag. I put in 80 psi tonight which is cushy but I can still bottom out the shock if I bounce on the seat. 4. What it looks like sitting still is not as important as how it rides. 5. As it is I still have to remove the last 2 inches of seat back-bone in the rear because I can still bottom it out. I have some 1/4" thick rubber pad that I will make a bumper pad with.
So the solution IS... If it really bothers me that the seat pops up this high without my A$$ in it then I'll make a short chain or wire with two stainless S hooks on each end. When I park the bike I'll hook it into the holes on the linkage to keep the shock compressed and the seat low. Tah-dah, Pure fucking magic.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-26-2012 at 01:52 AM..
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:56 AM
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I also got the kick-stand tab welded in, I used the Chassis Designs unit, really kick ass.
I decided to mount mine right where the frame cross member meets the left side bottom tube vice other members who mount directly under the front pulley nut. See more details in my thread Welding in Kick Stand mount in a 'different' place, Speak Now!
I have a Primo Slimline belt drive with Damraider mid controls... I think this position follows the rear pulley real well and I think I can still catch the kick stand with the heel of my boot but I haven't tried yet.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:05 AM
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Last thing up on Mad Fab Weekend was the Gas tank... and I knew it wasn't going to be easy. Getting everything lined up, level, and welding up-side down can be a bitch. This took a few tries, and to be honest I don't think it is totally right. It is certainly very close with this method, but I am going to check my work later when I break the roller down for finish welding I'll set the bare frame on a good surface, shim to level, and then re-check the level of the gas tank. I'm willing to bet it is off just a hair...
Anyway, here is how I set this up... Again, the soft moving blanket went over the motor and then the welding blanket on top of that. I tacked a steel bar across the frame to set a level on. Then holding the position and eye-balling minor adjustments by hand while Adam tacked the tabs from the bottom.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:09 AM
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I didn't get many pics of the actual Gas Tank mounting process but here is what it looked like when we finished at the close of Mad Fab Weekend... Fuck I was beat on Sunday night but my adrenaline was pumping too. I put in some long hours but really enjoyed the process and was very happy with the progress.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:11 AM
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BTW, it was about 105 average that Friday, so my garage was shit hot too. Luckily we got some rain on both Saturday and Sunday which helped cool things down.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 03:25 AM
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Looking good man, I've had an 07 GSXR 600, loved that bike. Looking to buy something similar.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 07:24 AM
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Nice progress..............lookin good.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 07:39 AM
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Very good ;-)
I like the handlebar and the Gas Tank, I will do the gas cap just a little up.
what's the size of the riser? 4 inch?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:00 AM
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Lookin good cloud....good pics!
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:15 PM
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I'm very close to taking the roller apart to go in for final TIG welding, but I have a few fab things left to do and waiting for some parts.
1. I have to finalize and smooth the sidewall radius of the rear fender, more on that later.
2. Some slight tweaks to the seat suspension and seat pan, but I've decided not to move the linkage position.
3. I have a few 'secret weapon' parts I'm fab'ing myself which involve frame mounting so I need to have them done before the roller is broken down, and again waiting for parts.
4. Like I mentioned earlier I want to get the bare frame on the floor and dead level to check the level position of the gas tank and I think I'll need to tweak the mounts. Measure twice, cut once...

I'll post up some pics of some additional work to the rear fender soon that I can get done without waiting for more parts. My wire harness from Scooters will be here soon and I'll be to go through the electrical 'dry run' when I am able to break down the roller so I can have access to drill the wiring holes.... Oh, and a small hint at one of my secret weapon parts, ever see a big red 'EJECT' button on a chopper?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:21 PM
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I'm curious to see the electrical part of your build....I'm excited for you cloud
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:17 PM
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Pete invited me to the below event in San Diego on September 8th, I'm sure many of you got the same invite on Facebook. It would be a great event to do my first ride on the CFL, but I doubt I will make that deadline. (and don't call it an unveiling, I'll smack you...) If I had gotten my engine a few weeks earlier I think I could have pulled it off, but oh well... There will be other events this fall in SoCal but I really wish I could have made this one because its my home town!

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-26-2012 at 02:35 PM..
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2012, 03:35 PM
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Progress over the last week...

I'm waiting on some other parts and farting around with other things so over the last week and this weekend progress has been a little slow. Most of the big stuff was done on Mad Fab Weekend but since then its more about figuring out one small component at a time, but here is what I have been able to do.

First up, I keep saying I will finalize the radius in my rear fender. Taking a look at it after I mounted the fender bungs I saw that the front of the fender was off by 1/4" or more in the spacing which in turn throws off the radius. Hard to make out how off it is in the pic but check it out;

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Old 07-29-2012, 03:39 PM
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I toyed with the idea of just moving the bung back on the frame rail a bit and just pulling the fender into place... no dice, that would still leave my radius looking shitty. So I decided to make some new slices just in the front to pull it in tighter.
Here it is with the slices and you can see how much tighter it pulls into the tire by looking at the bolt hole which has shifted back around 3/8", and on the other side you see the spacing tube being hugged in place.

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