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To people who ride hardtails. Hurting back and cracking frame/fender.
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2012, 05:25 AM
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Before I go, because AussieChop asked, here is another Race Bike pic, one of my fav's...
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:58 AM
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Storm Trooper? You nailed it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:25 AM
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Pics! More pics on build! Lookin good cloud! Goin strong on that build eh...keep them pics comin!
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:48 AM
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keep up the progress, clouddiver! good work.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopperfugger View Post
Storm Trooper? You nailed it.
Ha Ha! Yeah I get that a lot... Funny thing is, that helmet in the last pic was a really bad choice for track days. That's a Vemar from Italy. I was given one of the first ones imported to the US to test, but it was not intended for racing. I crashed at Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch in NV a few weeks after that pic was taken. Not a really bad crash but enough to fracture my shoulder blade. Anyway, that helmet got lunched and it protected my head just fine but the modular chin bar tore off and my face got a little eaten up by the gravel, no scars tho. The Suomy I have in the first pic is the one I stick with now.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-25-2012 at 11:30 PM.. Reason: typo
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2012, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiechop View Post
Cool man, look forward to seeing what you come up with. Anymore pics of your race bike? As I type this I'm trying to find a late model GSXR 600 or 1000.
If you want a great sport bike and plan to #1 not spend a lot of money, and #2 possibly track ride stick with the 600's... The GSXR is great and so is the Kawi ZX6R and the Yamaha R6. The 1000's are only faster in a straight line. Guys show up to track days with brand new liter bikes with $5K is stupid shit upgrades and I go on the track and eat their lunch. The 600's are lighter and turn quicker, better on the brakes into a turn and faster on the throttle coming out, thats racing... If you put money into upgrades put into the suspension before anything else. Rebuild your front forks and rear shock for your body weight and style of riding, thats what makes your bike faster, not power mods and lower tooth count front sprocket so you can do wheelies with the squids...
A 2008 or later low miles 600 will give you the most bang for the buck. I can take a bone stock 600 on the track (with race compound tires as the only upgrade) and destroy any liter bike.
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Old 07-26-2012, 12:20 AM
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Ok, so getting back to the build... I put the bike in the truck and brought it back to the house garage to mount the rear fender, seat suspension and gas tank last weekend (Mad Fab Weekend #1).

First Up, the rear fender...
I put my spacing tubing back in and used wood shims to set up the sidewall spacing, with a bungee cord squeezing the rear down.

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Old 07-26-2012, 12:26 AM
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The first Bung to go in is the coped bung that sits on the inside of the left tube. The shortest I could get was 1 inch so i had to shorten it and file in an angle to the cope. So I put a 3/8 bolt into the bench vice, cranked it down tight and then put on a leather washer and threaded on the bung using the the curved side of the file to tighten it down. From there I spent a good hour filing the correct height and angle into the cope with several test fits.
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Old 07-26-2012, 12:29 AM
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Here is the bung welded in. I was only tacking it into place and I realized that once the upper bung was placed on top you wouldn't be able to weld all the way around the lower bung, so I finish welded and smoothed the top side.

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Old 07-26-2012, 12:57 AM
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The rest of the fender bungs were pretty straight forward. Line them up, tack them in. I'm not using the washer welded to fender trick... I have something different up my sleeve which I will reveal after paint during final assembly. For now I will say that I'm using leather washers I got from Low Brow Customs ($5.95 for a bag of 10) and I also used 2 stainless washers to act as spacers to account for paint and bodywork build up.
Here is each side tack welded into place with the washers. I used a sharpie to race the outline of the leather washers and then center punched and drilled the fender bolt holes off the bike, then mounted. You'll notice the radius is still way off in the front, more on that later.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-26-2012 at 01:03 AM..
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:00 AM
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Notice I kept the chain off during this procedure, because the fender is being mounted in the position where the axle will land after chain stretch. Also, the lower bung on this side is short, so i carefully drilled through the frame being careful not to damage the threads of the bung and tapped it again so I can sink a full 1 inch 3/8 stainless bolt from inside the fender.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:09 AM
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Up next is the seat and air shock linkage which I got from Bung King; Home page
I lined everything up by eye a few times and used a square to check the cross bar. Greg Westbury cut the cross bar tube and fish mouthed it when he was working on my gas tank, it fit like a glove. Once everything was cool I tacked in the cross bar and the the upper and lower link arms. I had my buddy Adam (who you have seen giving me a hand with the torch and you will see again many times) tack in the link arms while I held them in place. I should have worn a glove, got some slag burns between my fingers, safety first! Anyway, we put a soft moving blanket over the top of the tranny & battery and then a welding blanket. This pic shows I set things up to get spacing and keep things square.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-26-2012 at 02:30 AM..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:13 AM
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I didn't always get things right the first time... I had to move the link arms after the first attempt because they leaned too far forward to the starter. So I shifted those back a little to keep the shock in a mostly vertical position and have good clearance through its complete arc of travel.
I used a padded clamp to compress the shock to its full down position and then safety wired the linkage together. When I mount the seat I want to make sure I mount it low but have 1/4" of clearance so the seat doesn't bang the fender if I bottom out the shock.

Last edited by CloudDiver; 07-26-2012 at 01:16 AM..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:26 AM
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The linkage was ready to receive the seat pan, so I needed to add a a hinge to my seat. I got a long piece of 1/4" x 1" steel, I was going for strength. I remember that the WCC seats had a double pan. My seat pan is pretty stout 10 gauge, and I got two because they were $29. I think doubling them was going to be way overkill, but I still wanted to add strength. So I came up with the idea of making the seat hinge run all the way up the seat pan like a back-bone.
I tacked the steel to flat front of the seat pan with 6 inches off the front for the seat hinge. I had to do it it twice, I didn't get it straight the first time. Then I put it in the vice to bend the steel back-bone around the seat pan. Here is Adam giving me a hand with the torch, heating and bending...

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Old 07-26-2012, 01:31 AM
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After I cut off and smoothed the end of the seat back-bone we did a test fit and then decided where it would weld to the hinge set up. Back in the vice we used the torch again to bend a 60 to 65 degree angle. I'll add a gusset in there later.
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