Ozzy CFL build - Page 3

Aussiechop · #31 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 04:17 AM

Wait, is that rectangle squashed part of the back tube (which I think is meant for the exhaust the pass by) meant to be on the other side?

HellionsMC · #32 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 06:32 AM

Post deleted.

Aussiechop · #33 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 06:42 AM

Yeah I just noticed that notch before. It's strange.. it's like it's set up for the motor to face the other way. Not sure.

I'll look more into the weld tomorrow. I think my options are:

-Take a tiny bit off the weld with a die grinder or file

-make a little arch on the engine side of the mount for it to sit over the weld

-raise the whole motor by putting 4 washers on the 4 mounting bolts between the engine mount and the frame mount.

Number 3 would fix the rubbing of the bottom of the motor to the foot control area (pic 3), but then I could run into problems with the top mount, and the spacers on the trans would be pretty big.

Number 1 and 2 would be nice, if it weren't for that bottom of the motor hitting too.

DarinZ · #34 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 10:50 AM

I'd file the edge off the motor mount. Then I'd grind a new radius into the forward control mount plate. Your frame is odd. That notch is on the wrong side! Unless I'm missing something. And it appears your oil bag mount is a little different too. What year is that frame?

DarinZ · #35 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 10:53 AM

And I really would not put washers under the motor as shims. That has to be flat and solid or your asking for all kinds of problems.

jsp · #36 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 05:45 PM

Is this one of the new daytec frames?

jsp · #37 (**permalink**) 12-28-2011, 05:46 PM

Also I would just shave the corner of the engine mount. Not a big deal

Aussiechop · #38 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 01:53 AM

Yeah that's what I will do, shave a bit off the motor side of things, leave the frame.

Not sure what I can do about the lower left corner though, grind an arc in the frame you think? I'll figure something out.

Not sure about the year, I got it from Malibu Motorcycle Works.

That notch in the frame, is that meant for exhaust clearance or what?

HellionsMC · #39 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 06:50 AM

Post deleted.

flysocal77 · #40 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 04:07 PM

Something's not right with your frame. I would contact mmw and go from there. I personally dont like the idea of grinding the engine case.

FRANKTHECRANK · #41 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aussiechop

The motor is sitting on the welds that join the rear engine mount to the back tube (pic), is it cool to space the motor up so it sits above the welds? It's also hitting down near the foot controls, spacing will help that too.

That's a tiny portion of weld bead,.......I would just file the weld enough to clear it. It's not going to weaken the weld,......more bead cleanup is done than that, when moulding a frame while prepping for paint.

FRANKTHECRANK · #42 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 04:34 PM

The seat post seems to have been put in the wrong way before welding,......I'm pretty sure the notch is in the tube before assembly and it's supposed to be facing the other way.

FRANKTHECRANK · #43 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 04:40 PM

I wouldn't get to depressed, .........if it were mine, I'd file down the weld at the back, file the radious at the foot control mount,.......and that problem should be solved.

Next, after the engine is sitting where it should be, mount your exhaust. If it clears the seat post,.......all you have to do is weld up and fill in the notch on the other side and your done. Yea, it's sucks,........but in my opinion, it sucks less than sending the frame back and waiting for another.

Worse case senario, you need to notch the other side "and" fill in the wrong notch.

Aussie WCC · #44 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 09:06 PM

Hi Aussiechop,

I just stumbled upon you thread so I decided to join CC. I bought a 4 up 2 out frame from MMW also. I had a good look at the the ADRs beforehand but nothing prepared me to all the crap I had to go through (and still going) to get the bike registered in AUS. Some of the things I had to deal with were spacing of the front wheel from the frame, the fact that the frame is rigid (ADRs say must have some sort of suspension even though you have springs under your seat some engineers won't touch it with a 10ft pole), must have front/rear fenders to cover 12 o'clock/9 o'clock of the wheel not to mention all the other stuff like HD switches, horn, indicators, taco and so forth. Placing all that on the bike will remove any reason why you may have wanted to get a CFL in the first instance. Anyways good luck with your build. If I see anything I can help you with I'll drop you a line.

Aussiechop · #45 (**permalink**) 12-30-2011, 10:40 PM

Thanks Frank, I'll do that, file the weld down and cut out a tiny bit of the foot control plate, re mount the motor and try the exhaust.

If I were to cut out another notch in the frame, is it just as simple as cutting a rectangle and welding in a plate?

Aussie, Good to hear of another CFL close to home. Did you get your frame directly through MMW, or through a shop in Melb? The dude I got my frame off (he's in NSW) sent me everything I'll need for ADR. I have all hand controls, indicators and crap like that, but once I pass rego I'll get rid of alot of stuff, or move it elsewhere.

How have you gotten past the rear suspension problem? That's fucking ridiculous, do they give a reason why?
Your frame sounds like it would be hard to pass rego, 4 up 2 out, what rake is that? And seat to handlebar length?