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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2013, 11:07 AM
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those licence plate skulls.... no IMHO
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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:44 AM
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I like those mids, cool design... but you do realize that on the Left side you will need to drill a big ole hole in your primary backing plate right? Same for the primary cover if you put one on.
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudDiver View Post
I like those mids, cool design... but you do realize that on the Left side you will need to drill a big ole hole in your primary backing plate right? Same for the primary cover if you put one on.
I thought those mounted off the rear motor mounts and where completely above the primary? Shouldnt make a differance.
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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
I thought those mounted off the rear motor mounts and where completely above the primary? Shouldnt make a differance.
You're right, I just looked at the pic on the Maindrive web page of the mids mounted on a finished bike. In that case, you're clear on any mods to the primary. For the difference left to right because of the engine off-set, I'd suggest not messing with the mounting plate, I would just shorten the tubing on one side... way easier to cut the tubing down .75 and weld back together with a slug than mess with that motor mount tab.
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 12:00 PM
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The only issue with your suggestion Cloud is that the roundbar already has welded-on spacers against which the lever bushings will sit. And the left peg mount (which sticks out extra) is already the minimum length necessary for the rubber peg. So I can't cut the left side down.

If I lengthened the right side to match the left, the welded-on spacer would be further in on the right side. Then I'd have to decide on either putting an additional spacer before installing the right lever, or mounting my master cylinder that much closer to the tranny bracket... in short, it's going to be a mess any way you slice it. I think cutting off the mounting tab and welding a new one in with the offset already built-in is the cleanest solution.

I just want to make sure I have my engine first before I start hacking up these controls. Don't want to risk clearance or interference issues, or worse still, trashing the part completely. I appreciate the input though, this is definitely going to be one of the trickier aspects of my build when it comes to fabrication.

Last edited by DIABOLUS; 10-24-2013 at 12:03 PM..
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  #111 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 02:08 PM
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Hey man where did you get your gas tank and what size is it? 2 1/2?
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  #112 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1badHD View Post
Hey man where did you get your gas tank and what size is it? 2 1/2?
Yeah it's a 2.5 gal peanut, got it from Sean at Metal Shop Customs. Didn't want to run a King tank. I'm actually considering parting with it if you're interested.

Last edited by DIABOLUS; 10-24-2013 at 03:17 PM..
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  #113 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2013, 04:22 PM
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Thanks for the offer man. I will keep you in mind. I think I'm going to buy another CFL frame and you are giving me some good idea's. I want the same look as yours but with apes.
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 07:34 PM
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Waiting on some parts to come in before posting my next build update. In the meantime, here's some pics from my first attempts at learning TIG welding. Started this back in August, so keep in mind that my current skill level is much further along than what you see in these pics.

I wanted this to be my last semester in school before pursuing a machining job. My current restaurant job gives me a flexible schedule that allows me to attend school weekday mornings, so I didn't want to take welding while also juggling the machining job hours.

Watched all the videos in the class on TIG and took extensive notes. Wrote down diagrams of my welding machine's buttons (it's a Lincoln) and learned how to set it up along with the torch. Learned about the different types of tungsten, their applications, blah blah blah. I wasn't looking to master TIG in one semester, but merely understand enough of the fundamentals that I could master it on my own time.

First off, some autogenous (no filler) welds to learn torch angle and speed:



Learning that TIG is very unforgiving and everything has to be clean:



The trick is to merely displace the metal, not blow through it. If it's smooth it's good.



Now add some filler rod and my mind feels like it's juggling ten tasks at once: torch angle/distance/speed, filler rod angle/distance/dipping speed/placement, amps, etc. Having a hard time getting a good consistent bead going. Melted the filler rod to the workpiece more times than I can remember.



Getting a little more consistent but I gotta remember to keep my shit clean.



Can't tell you how many trips I had to make to the tungsten grinder. If I'm focusing on my filler rod I dip my electrode into the puddle and contaminate it. If I'm focusing on the torch I accidentally touch the filler rod to the electrode, contaminating it. Or I pull the filler rod too far back out of the shielding gas and contaminate the tip. Frustrating!
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  #115 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 07:41 PM
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More progress on laying down beads, or should I say, worms:



Learning I have to be a little aggressive with the amps to get a good puddle going...



Still ugly as shit but getting some consistency...



Once I started becoming more comfortable with laying down beads I started practicing the different joints. Lap welds were a bitch. Was constantly burning up the top plate away before I could start the puddle. Outside corner joints weren't too bad but tacking them up was a pain. Butt joints, which I thought would be the easiest, were actually probably the hardest. If I went at what I thought was a good pace/amps, I wouldn't get full penetration. If I tried to correct this I would blow through the metal.

Fast forward tons of beads later...

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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:57 PM
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This is something I need to practice more.. My aluminum welding
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2013, 11:38 PM
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This is something I need to practice more.. My aluminum welding
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  #118 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2013, 06:46 AM
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I'll be starting aluminum soon enough. Feeling pretty comfortable with lap, corner, and butt welds, I decided to spend a good amount of time on fillet welds (tee) joints. Most welds on bike frames are fillet welds of some kind so I wanted to make sure I had a strong grasp of it.

Tacked up a bunch of tee joints and welded all pieces on one side, then came around and welded the opposite side in the same order, giving the workpieces time to cool. I'm finding it's best to not crank out welds like a madman because it increases the chance of blowing through the metal and managing the puddle is more difficult than if the piece were cooler.



Closeup of some of the welds:



Aside from sticking the tungsten out a bit more and making it nice and sharp, fillet welds aren't too bad. It's a nice feeling when you can get a "calm" puddle that doesn't fight you and just flows along the joint effortlessly. My ripples are starting to come out nice.

Took all my tee joints and welded them end to end, doubling the number of joints I can weld:



I made two long workpieces like this. My first attempts are below on the right. My second is on the left. You can see the welds on the left are marginally better. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure the pics above were from my second attempt.





Next, moving on to stainless!
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2013, 07:48 AM
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Looking good man practice makes perfect.. S.S. is pretty similar to mild, once you get to Aluminum that's a whole different matter
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  #120 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2013, 04:54 AM
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Very cool, I only Mig welded for the first time a few weeks back, Couldn;t get the hang of how far to hold the tip from the metal, can;t see shit with the mask on!
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