Hellion CFL Build. - Page 4

DIABOLUS · #46 (**permalink**) 09-17-2013, 12:26 PM

04.14.12 - Bought tubes and rim strips for front and rear wheels.

04.15.12 - 18x5.5" Ultima wheel.

04.18.12 - 5-3/4" Bates headlight to fit the narrow trees.

DIABOLUS · #47 (**permalink**) 09-17-2013, 10:13 PM

With the 44 Mag riser caps finished, I decided to mill out the rotor carrier for my rear disc brake to match the ones found on shop bikes.

Disassembled the rotor, set the carrier in a vise on the mill, picked up the center, and milled out the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock spokes. Turned the rotor 60 degrees, repeated once more, then 60 degrees more to finish the last two spokes.

Used a counterboring tool to mill out the bolt holes. Tried using a formula to calculate the proper bore depth but I found it easier to mill it a bit, test fit the countersunk bolt, and continue boring downward until the bolt sat flush with the surface of the carrier. Also had to turn down a bit of the backside of the bolt heads on a lathe so the bolts and rotor carrier would both mount flush to the wheel hub.

I decided I wanted to run a set of super-narrow bars on my bike. I sliced my Sportster-style handlebars in two places on each side, made slugs for inserting into the tubing, and reassembled the bars. I would need to weld the bars up at some point if I want to run them, but they are not as narrow as I would like. The WCC-style risers require a minimum center width that is a bit wider than some of the standard T-bars that are commonly seen on bikes. These bars were cheap so trashing them is not a huge deal.

DIABOLUS · #48 (**permalink**) 09-18-2013, 04:10 PM

Decided to not run the chopped bars. Bought a piece of stainless tubing to run a set of broomstick bars. Mocked it up to figure out how narrow I could run it...

Cut the left side of the bars to match the right...

Rhode Warrior · #49 (**permalink**) 09-18-2013, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flysocal77

Here's how I mounted mine.

"Here's how I mounted mine"? You say that like it's something everyone does.

A skull isn't a motorcycle part. Unless you're a headhunter or practice Voodoo.

STEINBVG · #50 (**permalink**) 09-18-2013, 06:24 PM

Does JJ stand for JOHN JOHN? The son of the beach or the sun on the bitch? Whatever?

Seriously man, let,s get the roller first , there always will be time for brass trinkets .

DIABOLUS · #51 (**permalink**) 09-19-2013, 03:00 PM

Gas tank mockup.

Made a spacer that would offset the sprocket to the same distance as on the shop wheels, so I shouldn't have any chain clearance issues when it comes to line up my rear end.

06.08.12 - Bought some 39mm fork tubes, 30" long. Should correspond to approximately 6" over, giving me plenty of length to work with to achieve good ride height and handling. Now to figure out how to put my front end together...

DIABOLUS · #52 (**permalink**) 09-20-2013, 12:10 PM

Somewhat major setback to the build. Having all the parts for the front, I went about trying to figure out how to put it together. Had my factory diagram laid out and all my parts similarly organized on the floor. Started putting the parts together into one of the tubes, pushed it down to the bottom of the tube (with some resistance) when I realized I had fogotten to replace a small plastic bushing on the damper (located between the main spring and rebound spring), with the actual part.

The damper would not come up out of the tube, so I pushed the tube down onto the damper's end against the floor. What I did not realize was that I still had the small aluminum sleeve installed over the end of the damper. When I pushed down on the tube, I jammed the aluminum sleeve up inside the fork tube...

The aluminum sleeve should not fit inside the steel part:

Had to remove the circlip on the inside of the fork tube and hammer out the part, effectively trashing the fork tube in the process. The washer on the inside of the tube was damaged. The good tube is on the left, the bad on the right:

Once I figured out what my mistake was and exactly how the front end components worked together, it was easy for me to assemble the second fork tube. Just have to cut the appropriate length spacers out of PVC.

DIABOLUS · #53 (**permalink**) 09-21-2013, 07:23 AM

06.11.12 - BelRay Fork oil.

06.13.12 - Made a dolly out of wood with locking caster wheels to roll my build around on.

06.18.12 - Red LED indicator light. Will mount this on my motor mount as a high beam indicator most likely. Or wire it to something else I have in mind...

06.20.12 - Transmission sprocket, 23 tooth.

06.28.12 - Doherty crankcase vents.

07.06.12 - Ultima LSD6 transmission. Finally tackling some of the major components of the build.

07.11.12 - Bough a replacement fork tube and aluminum sleeve. Measured and cut my appropriate spacers out of PVC.

Before I assembled everything I measured the lengths of every single component and made a spreadsheet which would automatically calculate fork tube length required based on desired axle-to-tube cap length, and would also automatically tell you the length of spacers needed. And the calculator also factors in spring compression due to vehicle and rider weight. If I ever have to build another bike with 39mm forks I won't have to guess the tube lengths again.

Mockup pics soon.

Choppa · #54 (**permalink**) 09-21-2013, 02:02 PM

OK just do me a favor and cut those hand control levers in half !!!!

DIABOLUS · #55 (**permalink**) 09-22-2013, 05:43 AM

I thought about cutting the levers down but decided against it in case I ever wanted to change up my bars. And didn't feel comfortable doing that to a brand new set of Brembo levers. Maybe if they were used Ducati units...besides, on a lot of the shop bikes the levers sat just a bit wider than the bar ends. And the bars are only 23.5" end-to-end. If I ever replace the bars and risers with true T-bars, I could bring the levers in a bit more.

This dolly I made is awesome. Bike glides across the floor with no effort.

DIABOLUS · #56 (**permalink**) 10-02-2013, 12:35 PM

Let's get this build thread back on the road.

08.08.12 - Brembo 2-piston caliper. I knew pretty much from the beginning of this build that I was going to run Brembo calipers front and rear. My original plan was to use chrome 4-pad calipers front and rear. With the recent change in the direction of the build, I decided to run 2-pot calipers front and rear, like the Penny Saved Dominator. Black finish for no maintenance. Bought just one caliper so if I change my mind I'm not out too much money.

08.06.12 - Bought a number of tools to assist in setting up my rear end. Got some telescoping gauges for measuring for axle spacers. Got a seal puller for rebuilding the Ultima wheel (it came already assembled but I don't trust the setup). Got a dial indicator with a magnetic base for measuring wheel bearing endplay, and some tire iron levers for mounting my tires.

08.24.12 - Oil filter mount for Evo engines. Chrome unit, since I want my drivetrain to be polished and shiny in case I later decide to repaint my bike for a higher-dollar look.

09.01.12 - Bought a transmission gasket since my Ultima unit is leaking oil noticeably. Bought some new Timken bearings and oil seals for the rear wheel.

09.08.12 - Bought a brake stay kit from Bung King. Figured it would be easier to fab a bracket that uses an anchor rod instead of the Softail tab.

09.22.12 - Made some measurements for my front and rear brake caliper brackets, and bought a ton of bolts, washers, and the like. Thinking I will be safety wiring my setup so there's no surprises. Also bought a cheap laser pointer for lining up the rear wheel to the frame backbone.

10.04.12 - Bought a sealed bearing tool for pulling the bearings out of the front wheel, and some grease for assembly.

10.21.12 - Got a transmission mainshaft socket for loosening the big nut holding the pulley in place.

Not much of an update but just getting a lot of tools and little shit for the build. Of course you can't always be dropping in an engine or mounting a new gas tank...got more pics coming in the next update.

Aussiechop · #57 (**permalink**) 10-03-2013, 03:03 AM

Always wanted one of those sockets..

fifty · #58 (**permalink**) 10-03-2013, 03:51 PM

all looks great with the exception of that decker skull... love love love decker's work but I dont like it on the CFL's

just my dumb opinion

DIABOLUS · #59 (**permalink**) 10-03-2013, 04:56 PM

Aussie the socket was like $67 on ebay. Just remember the nut has left hand threads.

11.06.12 - Dyna coil. Gotta drill and tap my transmission plate to mount this...

11.12.12 - RK chain. Same brand WCC uses as near as I can tell.

12.01.12 - Another slight change in my build direction. Was getting closer to the end of my machining classes, and access to the machines was becoming more limited. In the interest of finishing the build quicker, I decided to forego the FTW-style mid controls like I originally wanted. Only problem was I had sold my Softail controls some months earlier. So I had to buy the same controls again, and spent slightly more this second time around on a set that was missing a few components. Bought those missing parts and had the same controls for considerably more than I had spent originally. FML.

12.06.12 - Was planning on making my own shift rod and bought some spherical bearings like WCC used on theirs.

12.21.12 - Fabkevin adapter plates for mounting my Softail controls onto the frame.

DIABOLUS · #60 (**permalink**) 10-03-2013, 05:02 PM

Got my front tire and foot controls installed. Excuse the shitty iPhone pics.