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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2014, 02:26 PM
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A tap is probably the best solution. One more full turn with the tap should be enough. You don't want, or need to screw the threads all the way in. I believe you should be using a straight adapter fittings with 90* radius hose ends because fluid is like air, it does not like sharp turns.

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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2014, 09:25 AM
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Awesome thread Omar! Keep it commin and don't lose the focus/momentum.
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 09:15 AM
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Thanks for the feedback and support guys. Got my NPT taps in and proceeded to chase the threads. Had to damn near bottom out the tap on the oil tank threads while checking the fitting periodically to be sure it would clock in the proper orientation.

Got all three fittings on the tank chased appropriately, went to install the oil tank back in the frame and had a clearance issue with the top left fitting. Took the tank out, removed that fitting, and reinstalled the tank. Here's what I'm looking at:



The damn frame runs directly over where the fitting is located...



Looking at it head on there is very little clearance between the two, maybe a 1/2" or so.



When viewed from the left end of the oil tank, my fittings are located at just to the right of the 12:00 position. A lot of shop CFLs, on the other hand, have their fittings located just to the left of 11:00. It's a very noticeable difference. The fitting location on my tank is just plain stupid. Anyone else run into this problem on their CFLs?

My only recourse now is to switch my fittings entirely, probably to the same style as what the Death Dealer runs. Only problem is it doesn't look like the hoses on that bike use 6AN fittings, which means I wouldn't be able to assemble/disassemble them as easily. Maybe I'll just use those fittings on the tank and use my original fittings everywhere else.
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 09:45 AM
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instead of using the 3 bolts to mount the oil tank, how about just using the top two? put a spacer in there to drop the tank and the fittings should clear. mind you, just throwing an option out there
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modekko View Post
instead of using the 3 bolts to mount the oil tank, how about just using the top two? put a spacer in there to drop the tank and the fittings should clear. mind you, just throwing an option out there
I think the distance I would need to space it down by would be too much to clear my current style oil fittings.

Here's the style of fitting I'm looking for:



I've gone through my archive and it seems like a lot of the older CFLs actually had their oil fittings in the same position as mine and used these fittings. Does anyone know what they are called? I can't seem to find anything like them online.
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:15 AM
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The fitting ports on your oil tank are too far forward. The ones on the DD oil tank clear the frame rail all together.
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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWOWHLSIRVIVR View Post
The fitting ports on your oil tank are too far forward. The ones on the DD oil tank clear the frame rail all together.
Yeah, I noticed the DD's fittings are located well behind the rail. Would those fittings still not work for me? What would you recommend Devon?
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:28 AM
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Don't really know, never ran into that problem. May have to look for the lowest profile fittings you can find or try and find a fitting at a 45 degree angle for the far left one to clear the frame.
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:27 AM
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I had the same problem with my Ugly Betch CFL, but it was because my frame tubes were changed to be tapered and right right over the top of the fitting. This was fixed by the original builder by relocating the outboard oil return and plug welding the original. I took some pics for you;



Here is new return, placed on the right side;


Spacers were used to lower the oil tank .25", I also have the old style 2 point mount and the batt box, so another two rubber mounts are on the rear of the box. My oil tank was lowered to clear the new frame tubes that would have touched, and the top edge of the battery box is carved out where the tubes pass as well, but only about the same .25".


The only clearance problem lowering the oil tank could cause is getting the bottom of the oil tank too close to where the positive battery lead connects to the starter. This pic might suck but I hope you can see that a .25 spacer on the oil tank gets me close to the starter, but still clear enough to work. The threaded post was cut down and a thinner 5/16 stainless jam nut used;
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:40 AM
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I think your options are pretty clear, but I'd try to stick with the AN fittings because the traditional barbed hose fitting will be just as tall anyway.

Go the cheapest route first; try some 5/16 x .25 spacers on the tank mount first. See if the fitting will clear and you still have enough clearance on the starter positive lead. I would say this is the cheapest way but then again you have a 3 point mount and no rear mounts like mine, so I wonder if the spacers and .25 longer mounting bolts will vibrate more or what. Also, you will have to take .25 or so off the starter positive lead, which makes getting the nut on a super tight space. That AN fitting on he outboard return will clear the frame tube, but you'll have to connect the line before you mount the tank because you won't have clearance to turn the wrench otherwise.

Another option is to plug the outboard oil return, use a Y fitting to connect both oil returns, and feed them into the single oil return fitting that clears. Someone let me know if this is a bad idea, because my first instinct says that would screw with oil pressure or crank case breathing. Thoughts?

And the most expensive route, but probably the best idea is to just relocate that oil return. It can pretty much go anywhere on the top where it will best clear. I think its a good idea to go to the right side of the tank mount and mirror the left oil return position. In my area good welders get $80 per hour, so I imagine this would be about $120 job, but that would be what I would choose to do.
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  #221 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:37 PM
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Interesting write-up Cloud, hadn't thought about just relocating the bung. I notice Bung King has aluminum 1/8 NPT bungs for $3.75 each. What if I simply relocated not one, but both bungs to the 11:00 position of the later shop bikes, and still used my 90* adapters?

Would I absolutely need to plug weld the old fittings? Or would a plug bolt make do? Actually I would rather get rid of the old fittings altogether. How hard would it be to file down the old fittings, plug weld the hole, and finish the surface so it lies even with the rest of the tank's contour?

Cutting the whole section out sounds like it would be more troublesome, and I would have a lot more surface area the to file down as far as weld beads go.

I could also just weld in the new fittings, put bolts in the old fittings, and paint the whole thing black like Bobby Nathey's CFL. I was leaning toward a gloss black paint scheme anyway. Thoughts?
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  #222 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIABOLUS View Post
Interesting write-up Cloud, hadn't thought about just relocating the bung. I notice Bung King has aluminum 1/8 NPT bungs for $3.75 each. What if I simply relocated not one, but both bungs to the 11:00 position of the later shop bikes, and still used my 90* adapters?

Would I absolutely need to plug weld the old fittings? Or would a plug bolt make do? Actually I would rather get rid of the old fittings altogether. How hard would it be to file down the old fittings, plug weld the hole, and finish the surface so it lies even with the rest of the tank's contour?

Cutting the whole section out sounds like it would be more troublesome, and I would have a lot more surface area the to file down as far as weld beads go.

I could also just weld in the new fittings, put bolts in the old fittings, and paint the whole thing black like Bobby Nathey's CFL. I was leaning toward a gloss black paint scheme anyway. Thoughts?
If you are doing your own welding (and I forgot about all your pics from earlier… You do and you are getting good) then you are way ahead of the game. I think moving the blocked bung is the best way to go.

I would avoid mechanical plugs, thats just ugly. Plug weld for sure, file down and finish off. If gloss black paint is your plan, no need to re-polish. If you keep it polished you have to re-polish the heat effected area.

I wouldn't move both bungs, better off just moving the one in question, but that's up to you. If it makes an aesthetic difference and you want it that specific way, then do it up. To me, Its under the seat and its doubtful anyone will notice or comment on the position of the return oil lines. I'm not sure what you mean by 11'oclock, but I am guessing you mean looking at the oil tank from the right side of the bike. You bung that is clear right now is at 12 o'clock and you would be moving it back to 11, closer to the rear tire… I wouldn't mess with that, because you are moving that bung not very far and going to drill right back into the alloy that you just welded shut. I would say just mirror that bung position on the right side of the oil tank mount. Symmetrical and clean, close one bung and install just one new bung.
The 1/8 NPT ALU bungs from Bung King are exactly what you need. A pilot hole and then step drill will get you to the right diameter. I don't need to remind you that aluminum has to be hyper clean before welding, but I just did, LOL!

Last edited by CloudDiver; 02-10-2014 at 01:42 PM..
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  #223 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWOWHLSIRVIVR View Post
The fitting ports on your oil tank are too far forward. The ones on the DD oil tank clear the frame rail all together.
This is your problem. Somebody messed up the oil tank! I suggest you buy a new oil tank or take clouds suggestion and relocate the 1 bung. Looks like you have the skills to do this. I'm no welding expert but know that aluminum is fussy and it may not blend properly. You might have all kinds of issues with ano and PC. Your only options would be chrome, paint, polish. And it will probably still show flaws. So I would just hang tough and wait for a replacement tank to pop on eBay. I'm running Rivera oil fittings with clamped hose, same as DD
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  #224 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2014, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CloudDiver
If you are doing your own welding (and I forgot about all your pics from earlier… You do and you are getting good) then you are way ahead of the game. I think moving the blocked bung is the best way to go.

I would avoid mechanical plugs, thats just ugly. Plug weld for sure, file down and finish off. If gloss black paint is your plan, no need to re-polish. If you keep it polished you have to re-polish the heat effected area.

I wouldn't move both bungs, better off just moving the one in question, but that's up to you. If it makes an aesthetic difference and you want it that specific way, then do it up. To me, Its under the seat and its doubtful anyone will notice or comment on the position of the return oil lines. I'm not sure what you mean by 11'oclock, but I am guessing you mean looking at the oil tank from the right side of the bike. You bung that is clear right now is at 12 o'clock and you would be moving it back to 11, closer to the rear tire… I wouldn't mess with that, because you are moving that bung not very far and going to drill right back into the alloy that you just welded shut. I would say just mirror that bung position on the right side of the oil tank mount. Symmetrical and clean, close one bung and install just one new bung.
The 1/8 NPT ALU bungs from Bung King are exactly what you need. A pilot hole and then step drill will get you to the right diameter. I don't need to remind you that aluminum has to be hyper clean before welding, but I just did, LOL!
Lot of good points there. The 11:00 and 12:00 references were actually as seen from the left side of the tank.

If I'm going to go through the trouble of relocating one bung, I don't actually mind relocating the other as well. I'm too detail oriented to do something halfway. I'm actually looking at fabbing up a Danny Gray-style square seat mount, so the fittings on the tank would actually be visible.

Polishing the heat affected zone shouldn't be a problem, my tank hasn't been polished yet and the finish is currently raw with lots of minor blemishes from storage. If I can get all of the discoloration out, I won't bother with blacking out the tank. I prefer polished anyway. If the discoloration won't fully come out, I'll go black.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flysocal77 View Post
This is your problem. Somebody messed up the oil tank! I suggest you buy a new oil tank or take clouds suggestion and relocate the 1 bung. Looks like you have the skills to do this. I'm no welding expert but know that aluminum is fussy and it may not blend properly. You might have all kinds of issues with ano and PC. Your only options would be chrome, paint, polish. And it will probably still show flaws. So I would just hang tough and wait for a replacement tank to pop on eBay. I'm running Rivera oil fittings with clamped hose, same as DD
Those Rivera fittings were exactly what I was looking for. I'm a little disappointed though to see they are as tall as they are. I'm almost positive even they won't work for my situation. But at $15 for a pair I might give it a shot, couldn't hurt. Get some straight 1/8 NPT to 6AN adapters for them, then some 45* 6AN connections and run my hoses down the front of the tank.

Might try that first and if it doesn't work look into relocating the bungs.
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  #225 (permalink)  
Old 02-14-2014, 09:08 AM
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02.10.14 - Yuasa YTX20H-BS battery.



Got the battery mounted in my battery box and sure enough it's going to be a tight fit.



The axle is currently installed with the lobes facing forward and in its absolute rearmost position from when I tried to get my rear caliper bracket to work with the frame tab. I'm aware I'll need to flip the axle around to allow for chain adjustment. Will probably need to do like a lot of other guys and relocate my battery mounting holes a bit forward to help clear the fender. Not looking forward to having to cut into that 12ga fender for clearance purposes.

Also did a mock install of my clutch pulley and went through the kit (which was bought used) to determine which parts I'll need (extras were included), and to see how everything is put together. Pretty simple in operation from what I can tell.



I'll be moving to yet another apartment in 3 weeks or so, not looking forward to tearing this thing down again...

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