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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2013, 06:02 PM
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Moved on to stainless tee joints:









By this point I was getting thoroughly pissed off. I'd never felt more inconsistent than working on tee joints. Puddle just didn't flow as easily as it did on mild steel. One weld would come out beautiful, flow effortlessly, no problems whatsoever. Next weld would come out like absolute shit. Had a number of welds where I kept having to do restarts on them because I kept contaminating the damn electrode. Very frustrating. But since this semester is just a sampling of welding the different materials I think I have a good idea of how much of a pain stainless can be. Compared to lap joints I almost feel like I took a step backward.

Onward.

Last edited by DIABOLUS; 11-08-2013 at 06:07 PM..
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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2013, 08:16 PM
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Hey brother - where did you find this rotor? Is it a PM 10" one? How much are they? Looking for one for my Dominator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIABOLUS View Post
With the 44 Mag riser caps finished, I decided to mill out the rotor carrier for my rear disc brake to match the ones found on shop bikes.



Disassembled the rotor, set the carrier in a vise on the mill, picked up the center, and milled out the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock spokes. Turned the rotor 60 degrees, repeated once more, then 60 degrees more to finish the last two spokes.

Used a counterboring tool to mill out the bolt holes. Tried using a formula to calculate the proper bore depth but I found it easier to mill it a bit, test fit the countersunk bolt, and continue boring downward until the bolt sat flush with the surface of the carrier. Also had to turn down a bit of the backside of the bolt heads on a lathe so the bolts and rotor carrier would both mount flush to the wheel hub.



I decided I wanted to run a set of super-narrow bars on my bike. I sliced my Sportster-style handlebars in two places on each side, made slugs for inserting into the tubing, and reassembled the bars. I would need to weld the bars up at some point if I want to run them, but they are not as narrow as I would like. The WCC-style risers require a minimum center width that is a bit wider than some of the standard T-bars that are commonly seen on bikes. These bars were cheap so trashing them is not a huge deal.

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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2013, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7stretch4drop View Post
Hey brother - where did you find this rotor? Is it a PM 10" one? How much are they? Looking for one for my Dominator.
Yeah it's a now-discontinued PM rotor. Can't remember who I got it from. Paid $330ish.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2013, 06:04 AM
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2013, 12:23 PM
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"By this point I was getting thoroughly pissed off. I'd never felt more inconsistent than working on tee joints. Puddle just didn't flow as easily as it did on mild steel. One weld would come out beautiful, flow effortlessly, no problems whatsoever. Next weld would come out like absolute shit. Had a number of welds where I kept having to do restarts on them because I kept contaminating the damn electrode. Very frustrating. But since this semester is just a sampling of welding the different materials I think I have a good idea of how much of a pain stainless can be. Compared to lap joints I almost feel like I took a step backward."


I think you are doing exactly the right thing with all this practice, you are getting better and starting to self critique your work, figuring out your own mistakes. When I got this point and some of the same things were happening to me I started to consider every part of the equation. When I knew for sure my technique was solid, my metal was clean, and my amperage was right, I wondered what else could be wrong? So I looked at my torch… standard issue Miller 17 series Tig torch, ceramic cup, no frills. Turns out the standard set up doesn't always give you the best gas flow and cloud, plus you can change sizes of the cup for different applications. First thing I did was change to a screen style gas lens that pushes out a more consistent cloud of argon around your arc. I also tried a much bigger cup diameter to make a bigger cloud, and even got some pyrex cups. Seeing right through the cup really gives you a better eye on the weld in a tight spot. Also, don't be afraid to stick that tungsten out a little further if you need to, just make sure the farther out you go the bigger cloud of argon you need to cover the gap, may even require a little more cfm on the gas.
After you get the hang of what a few different cup styles can do along with a screen type gas lens I think you will be amazed at how consistent you beads will be.
This is one kit from an online welding supply place that I have used, this kit is the screen type gas lens with standard ceramic cups, they also have this kit with Pyrex cups . The prices are pretty good considering the comparison of purchasing tungsten from a local welding shop ($17 for 3) vs a 10 pack for $24!

Stubby Gas Lens Kit , Metal Welding, Welder Supplies, Accessories for Welding | USAWeld.com

I also bought a flexible head torch from this online shop… surf around and see what you find. $100 for a good tool box of various TIG consumables is worth its weight in gold…. and great welds!
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:08 AM
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[quote=DIABOLUS;1232596]04.23.13 - WCC wire loom. Been wanting one of these for a good two years. Practically stole it for what I paid.

QUOTE]


By the way, you're welcome...
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2013, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250CFL View Post
By the way, you're welcome...
Thank you. I've bought so many parts over time it's hard to keep track of all the different sellers ebay handles vs CC handles. I want to give credit where I can. Thank you for the riser caps and dogbone too.

Made some major changes to the build, hope to have pics up soon. Just been lazy about uploading pics from phone and camera to photobucket.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2013, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIABOLUS View Post
Thank you. I've bought so many parts over time it's hard to keep track of all the different sellers ebay handles vs CC handles. I want to give credit where I can. Thank you for the riser caps and dogbone too.

Made some major changes to the build, hope to have pics up soon. Just been lazy about uploading pics from phone and camera to photobucket.
I didn't even know it was you myself. I was just going through my egay account and connected the name. Glad you could put the parts to good use! Looking forward to seeing more pics.

Have a great Thanksgiving!
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2013, 06:39 AM
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Nothing wrong with practice... Hell ill do the same thing after not welding for a couple weeks. Haha.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:51 PM
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Hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving. Now to get off my ass and get this thread going again...

10.02.13 - Was in need of enough bolts to justify placing an order. Measured for bolt lengths for my hydraulic clutch cover and was finally able to install it. Will obviously have to adjust it when I get around to plumbing the bike.



10.17.13 - 12.6" Brembo rotor:



Took me a while to get this part due to a shipping mix-up but it was finally sorted out. Big thanks to John and Amber at Scooter's for helping me with this. This thing is massive. I had a mockup 12.6" aluminum rotor on my bike and I didn't realize how much heavier and sturdier the real deal would be. Definitely not skimping on the stopping power here! Just need to figure out how much I will need to shave the back of my Brembo caliper...

10.23.13 - WCC battery box:



Been wanting one of these forever, and it popped up on ebay. I initially lost the auction, and a few days later checked my email and found a second chance offer for the part. Done and sold. Kinda wished it was the regular version (not Chopperfucker) but what the hell, no one will really notice.

10.30.13 - Tranny lock nut kit:



Thanks to jsp for pointing me in the right direction with this part.

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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2013, 10:34 PM
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11.16.13 - WCC narrow glide triple trees:



Been debating this one for a long time. Started out with the WCC wide glide trees, decided to run a narrow front end to be different. Couldn't find a set of WCC narrow trees, so I settled for the Blings trees which had a similar profile, but no rake. Every time I looked at them they just didn't feel right. And I couldn't stand seeing the engraving on the top clamp.

Caleb (flysocal77) decided to sell these and I snapped them up. Couldn't be happier with them. The difference in quality is noticeable. They just feel so much more sleeker and sophisticated. Thanks again buddy.

11.19.13 - Style 53 wheel / tire set:



Matt (SocoMech) listed these a while back but I didn't think anything of them at the time. Still was trying to do the whole low-budget style build. With some of my more recent purchases, it was (once again) becoming more high-dollar. With the purchase of the WCC trees, I've become committed to the new direction my build is taking.

Bought the wheels without hesitation and don't regret it one bit. Wheels look fantastic and I'm honored to be using wheels owned by Vince (Baddogg) and Matt. Thanks again. Front wheel has wide glide hubs installed so I will have to purchase a narrow set. I plan to have a spare Deuce front end and wide WCC trees on the side so I can swap back and forth as suits my fancy, so I will be keeping the wide hub regardless.

Rear hub has 1" bearings installed so I just need to swap them out for 3/4" bearings and change out the center bearing spacer. Also need to bore out my rear rotor and sprocket for the 2000+ style hub carriers, and measure for bolts on all the new parts I've purchased. Best of all, no more having to deal with those shitty Timken bearings. Fuck endplay.

Got mockup pics coming soon...

Last edited by DIABOLUS; 11-28-2013 at 10:37 PM..
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 10:26 AM
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Oh shit! This build is taking a nice direction. I was stock piling parts for a dominator build but need to stop dreaming and focus all my attention on my 2 CFLs which are "almost" done. Besides, having 3 choppers is excessive for me right now when $$ could be better spent. I've always liked those wheels so nice score there too. I ended up with odd sized doom wheels perfect for my 140 but my front is a 19 and would prefer a 21. Can't wait to see more pics.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flysocal77 View Post
Oh shit! This build is taking a nice direction. I was stock piling parts for a dominator build but need to stop dreaming and focus all my attention on my 2 CFLs which are "almost" done. Besides, having 3 choppers is excessive for me right now when $$ could be better spent. I've always liked those wheels so nice score there too. I ended up with odd sized doom wheels perfect for my 140 but my front is a 19 and would prefer a 21. Can't wait to see more pics.
This has been a very expensive lesson for me, and I broke a rule that I try to follow everywhere else in my life. I like nice things, and I don't mind paying good money for quality goods. I started this project as a big-budget build (spare no expense), but came to the conclusion that my build should better reflect my meager income stream. So I sold a lot of the expensive parts and replaced them with something lower budget in the hopes of getting the bike done quicker. Building a $50,000 bike on $8/hr is just not a happening thing.

Only problem is, with cheaper parts comes more problems. I was having fitment problems left and right, having to mod stuff to make it fit and work together. My cheapo Ulitima rear wheel was giving me problems with the Timken bearings. The front spoked wheel was giving me caliper clearance issues. The frisco mids would not mount properly to an offset drivetrain. So on and so forth.

If I had just stayed the course and held out only for parts that I truly wanted, this bike would be a lot closer to completion now. I was literally 4-5 parts away from buying my engine. I'm a lot further back now, but I'm okay with that. I'm infinitely happier with the build, and know that I won't question anything on the bike when it's finished.

So for those of you out there contemplating a bike build (CFL or otherwise) let this serve as a lesson: NEVER settle.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 11:37 AM
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By the way, since it won't really matter anymore the look I had been going for was that of a 1970's Shovelhead lane splitter:

Wire spoke wheels
Narrow front end (would have gone with Super Narrow 39mm Mullins trees but I like stopping power)
8" risers
Super narrow broomstick bars
2.5 gal Peanut gas tank
Frisco mids
Skinny fender (sidewalls cut out)
Pipe organ exhaust
1970's style panel paint job

I'm still going to build something like this at some point in the future, but I'll leave it for a cheapo 140 frame instead of trying to build a 200 CFL that can swap back and forth between a lane splitter and high-dollar WCC look.

The bike that had started it all for me: T-bone's (of Noise Cycles) shovelhead splitter:

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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2013, 11:59 AM
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Bought the wheels without hesitation and don't regret it one bit. Wheels look fantastic and I'm honored to be using wheels owned by Vince (Baddogg) and Matt. Thanks again. Front wheel has wide glide hubs installed so I will have to purchase a narrow set. I plan to have a spare Deuce front end and wide WCC trees on the side so I can swap back and forth as suits my fancy, so I will be keeping the wide hub regardless.

You will need to have the front wheel hub surfaces also taken down some to run as a narrow glide wheel.. just swaping wide glide hub too a narrow wont do it I Don't believe bro!
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