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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2017, 12:06 AM
slytat666's Avatar
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Belt drive and engine torque question

Im running a revtech 110 ci motor with a 6 speed, do you have to run a open belt backing plate? Id like to run a setup with it more open old school looking. Will the engine have too much torque?
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2017, 07:11 AM
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Bike Year, Make, Engine: 2010-14; MYSELF; 96",113",120",127"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
Im running a revtech 110 ci motor with a 6 speed, do you have to run a open belt backing plate? Id like to run a setup with it more open old school looking. Will the engine have too much torque?
I run my 120 with no backing plate simply because i could not fit the chain without using chain tensioner : I had tried it while having Ultima backing plate, but didn,t like the complexity and noise.
So I cut off the motor portion of karata old baking plate and used the trany part to be able to have starter housing,
So far so good, trany doesnt move around. But then again, I don,t beat the shit out of this bike.



Another thought, an alternative is to use a mill and open up backing plate removing material everywhere where it,s not crucial , would be see through and still function holding motor and trany firm.
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VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 1998/2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:03 PM
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Yes, sounds like an idea, but I hacked off what I don’t need and ground down to what was needed. I am happy with the way it turned out and opens up the bottom end more. I’m doing a foot clutch conversion, I noticed the only length available for clutch cable for foot clutch is 36”. Going to get by in conversion for downed controls and 5/6 speed tranny. Hopefully won’t have to modify.
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Old 12-18-2017, 08:19 PM
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Question for you, I see you have both brakes running to 1 master cylinder. With the master being a little lower than the front brake caliber, have you needed to put in a residual valve for it? I am wanting to run a remote master cylinder under transmission for a cable to hydronic setup, but can’t put it under my gas tank. Or can I do this with the reseviour the same hight as the caliber?
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slytat666 View Post
Question for you, I see you have both brakes running to 1 master cylinder. With the master being a little lower than the front brake caliber, have you needed to put in a residual valve for it? I am wanting to run a remote master cylinder under transmission for a cable to hydraulic setup, but cant put it under my gas tank. Or can I do this with the reservoir the same height as the caliber?
I don't use any residual valve in my 3 bikes with 1 master running the front and rear calipers.
It's a closed hydraulic system with[hopefully] no air in it. I believe you can run a line from master to calipers around your house [lol] , bleed it right and it should work, given the lines are stiff and don't give.

Because of some slight stretch in the lines, their length might affect very slightly the pedal travel or difference in an effort : the longer, the more travel? But i wold not worry about it:
3/4 bore master worked for all my possible combinations of common brembo calipers
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 1998/2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber
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