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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-09-2005, 09:14 PM
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SSW+ breathing

this only applies to the super sidwinder plus series of motors, including the 124, 117
SSW+


s&s 124has two breathing systems that can be used seperately, or together
1 case breathing
2 head breathing
3 together

1 case only....block off both holes in head, pick a case hole, block the other....one way valve not needed, but can be used to blow out...but not suck in

2 head breathing only: front head hose to intake manifold, this is recommended but optional, both carb manifold and front head hose can be blocked off, rear head hose to carb backing plate....with one way check valve blowing out of head...into carb, and MUST be used, regardless of the front setup, block off both case vent holes

3 head and case breathing...use either one of the case vent holes, use a one way check valve blowing out on the case hose, front head hose to intake manifold, rear head hose MUST have a second one way valve installed breathing out only

in both head breathing and head and case breathing, rear head MUST have the check valve....front head applies manifold vacuum to the case and the rear hose relieves crankcase pressure....the front sucks...the rear blows

black end of valve always faces out...all of this only applies to SSW+ and NOT SSW
[/quote]



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Last edited by gypsy chopper; 11-06-2007 at 02:23 PM..
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2005, 06:01 PM
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50 state legal s&s pushrod adjustment(no limited travel kit in the lifters)

take both plugs out(spark plugs)
put bike in high gear and raise the rear wheel
stick your finger over the front plug hole and have someone turn the motor forward till air starts blowin out under your finger

thats compression stroke, as soon as air starts rushing out, stick a chopstick or shishkabob stick down in the hole(soft material)
keep turning the wheel till the piston is all the way up top...most likely will have to jog it back and forth to get it perfect..once you got it set the wheel down so the motor doesnt spin

on the carb side the top of each pushrod tube...the top section...
at the bottom of the top section is a little notch, put a flathead screwdriver in the notch and pry down, the top section should flip off.

then grab down by the lifter block(the tube and wriggle the whole tube up...should slide up over the part that is still up top, once you get the front cylinder tubes all the way up put a clothespin on each pushrod, right below the tubes, to hold the tubes out of your way.

on the pushrod...loosen the jam nut...run the nut away a few turns4/5 is enough...then loosen the adjuster(shorten the pushrod) till the pushrod is floppy in there(no pressure at all)

then lengthen the adjuster till the slop just starts to go away(rod just makes contact, you can feel it immediately when you lengthen it with your fingers)(zero lash)...right when it takes up all the slack.

then, holding the top section with a wrench, and holding the bottom with a wrench...lengthen the adjuster or rod 3 complete turns EXACTLY

this is the fun part, you have to hold both of those pieces with wrenches and tighten the jam nut, without letting the top and bottom part spin...at all
het the jam nuts good and tite, or they will come loose

after you do one rod, do the other same way. they should be tight. you can barely spin them with your fingers....

wait 15 minutes and they should bleed down, meaning you can then turn them easily, with your fingers

if they dont spin after 15, readjust...if they do spin...put the tubes back together, your done with that cylinder...make sure you get the inner tube back up in the head so it seals...stick the clip up against that inner tube...stick your screwdriver in that slot, and pry down on the center spring section, while sliding the top clip on the screwdriver, till it pops into place

stick your finger over the rear cyl plug hole...and spin the motor forward again till air rushes out...follow the same procedure EXACTLY...but on the rear cyl.

note this has to be done with the engine cold, you cant do it after a ride till its back to room temp.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2005, 06:35 PM
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good info brad.

question : how can you tell if your lifters have the no travel kit?

i personally have the 117 ssw+.

here is a picture of my breather system. i still need to get some braided hoses to finish it off. people dont need to go to all the trouble i did, i just thought it was different and helped fill the gap under the tank. the can has a cleanable filter and a drain valve, but with it mounted this way i havent had to drain it.

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Last edited by NO LOVE; 09-13-2005 at 06:38 PM..
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2006, 03:43 AM
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I did read about crank venting:

"If installing a hose in the lower case breather location,
DO NOT use a hose by itself. Lower engine
case breather hose must be fitted with S&S #50-
8122 one-way valve. If the upper rear head
breather location is also used, it also must have a
one way valve installed. In either location, white
end of valve faces engine.
SSW+ engines breathe differently than Evolution
style engines. Not installing the one-way valve
will result in a direct engine vacuum leak, affecting
performance."


How does this S&S one way valve look like.Mabey like in head vent pic before.Can´t find it in regular catalogs ?

Last edited by racechopper; 06-18-2006 at 03:15 AM..
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 12:36 PM
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my 03 S&S 113 had a funky hose from the lower back of the engine to the air filter. for a while i cut the hose short and put a small K&N on the hose. now i only have a hose going from the fitting in the rear of the crank case to the lower frame. i never thought to look in the hose for a check valve. i might have thrown the origional hose away. my 113 is the super stock not the side winder. what do you think thanks.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 12:54 PM
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run the hose to ground, with or without the filter, with or without the crankvent.

running it to the breather works, but it isnt my favorite.

the line doesnt suck air if the motor is running properly, only blows air out. the filter is so bugs dont crawl up the thing, and mud daubers. if you arent worried bout bugs and stuff, dont run the filter, but make sure the hose is a little longer so dirt doesnt fly up it.

edit: this is from the s&s site.

Most S&S Evolution style and SSW+ engines have two engine breathing systems that can be used separately, or together, commonly referred to as case breathing, and head breathing. For case breathing, SSW+ engines still uses the venerable breather gear to regulate the engine's internal airflow, just like the Evolution style engines before it. However, the head breathing arrangement is markedly different. SSW+ engines don't use hollow breather bolts to vent
excess crankcase pressure to the outside. Instead, the head breathing arrangement of a SSW+ engine consists of two hoses - a small hose on the front head, and a larger hose, equipped with a one-way check valve on the rear head. (More on the check valve in a minute). The front hose is routed from the front head to the intake manifold. It applies manifold vacuum to the crankcase anytime the engine is running. The rear hose is routed from the rear head to the carburetor backing plate (or other suitable location). Its purpose is to relieve excess crankcase pressure at all rpm's. Unlike the hose on the front head, the hose on the rear head doesn't do anything until pressure builds in the crankcase. Just remember, the front hose sucks, the rear hose blows.
The rear head breather hose on an SSW+ engine performs the same function as the breather bolts on an Evo engine; that is, venting excess crankcase pressure to the outside, without allowing outside air back in. Both engines use a check valve to perform this function. Evo engines use a pair of umbrella valves located inside the rocker boxes, while SSW+ engines use a one-way check valve, S&S Part #50-8122. It is located outside the engine, placed in the aforementioned rear head breather hose. The one way check valve must be used with
the rear head breather hose, no exceptions. (By the way, SSW+ rocker boxes will have provision for Evo style venting, but it is not functional).
The front breather hose supplies vacuum to the crankcase as added insurance against engine blow by. In most applications it is beneficial. However, there have been a few cases of this hose pulling oil into the intake, causing the engine to smoke. Using the front hose is optional. If the front hose is causing a problem, it can be removed and the fittings capped. If the front hose is removed, a check valve is still required in the rear head hose.
The one-way check valve is critical to the engine's operation. It must be installed in the hose so that air can flow out of the motor, but not back in. The valve is light colored on one end, and black on the other. "black out"-- the black end always faces out, or away from the engine.

Last edited by gypsy chopper; 11-03-2007 at 07:17 PM..
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-26-2006, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racechopper

How does this S&S one way valve look like.Mabey like in head vent pic before.Canīt find it in regular catalogs ?

s&s vents are bout 1" around, black on one end, green on the other. looks like a teeny fuel filter
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Old 10-26-2006, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsy chopper
run the hose to ground, with or without the filter, with or without the crankvent.

running it to the breather works, but it isnt my favorite.

the line doesnt suck air if the motor is running properly, only blows air out. the filter is so bugs dont crawl up the thing, and mud daubers. if you arent worried bout bugs and stuff, dont run the filter, but make sure the hose is a little longer so dirt doesnt fly up it.
you the man thanks. i was worried about reversion sucking road grime up the hose.
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