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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2005, 01:57 PM
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Starting A New Motor!


oil in tank for a day or so to make sure the line fils up
pull timing plug and dump in 1/4 qt oil just to be sure assembler didnt forget(excess will blow out)
right before of pump has 2 plugs...pull the SHORT one...pull the spring....stick magnet in and pull the ball bearing lookin thing...fill that with oil...itll drain it a few times till draining slows...if full of oil...your primed already

replace ball,spring,plug...

take spark plugs out, put in high gear, turn wheel foreward till air starts blowin out front hole(with finger over hole)...thats comp stroke...when piston is at highest point(i hold chopstick or shishkabob stick in hole and do by feel...thats TDC front comp stroke....pull timing plug at bottom of cyl bases(allen plug) should be a mark in hole...jog forward and back till its centered perfectly

usually T:F

for future...mark that from pulley to back plate or pulley to cover with a sharpie.....for later with lite

turn key on rotate hi4 clockwise till lite goes out...lock down....should be roughly centered in the slots

here i scribe a line from the plate to the cam cover inside...that is 35 static, and i never have to do it again

set rear cyl to center(0)
timeing advance to full clockwise
rev limit to 6000

swtches at bottom...voes on or off ...whatever, i dont use em...but....crane, s&s, fuelie and others like them...jimbojive says TP says"whatever"...they are a safety, i dont feel I need

switch to elc start mode

jump cables to truck, shot ether....pull choke and whammo

keep it running, adjust idle till you can push choke down and have it idle rapidly

get idling sorta like a bagger...dont rev just let get hot at a high idle (1100-1200) soon as hot..turn brass carb screw in till engine starts to die...back out 1/2 turn ...bout 4-6 mins

turn off and let cool completelyCOMPLETELY(seals head gaskets)

fire again...this time...time it with a dial back lite...set dial on lite to 30 or whatever spec (28 for 124 s&s) have someone rev till marks stop moving...adjust hi4 plate till marks line up with lite set at specs....must be over 2600 rpm for full advance

i get lite ready, fire it up rev it up while holding lite, and kill it

go move the plate an 1/8 it again 1/8=3deg approx

generally speaking you will be moving plate about 3/16 from you first setting....clockwise

i usually drain oil and put some more in now...comes out a little rough lookin

fire up ride about 50 miles around block while shit falls off bike...keep in the wind and take it easy but dont lug motor, no traffic....just nice easy miles....then turn off drain oil(no need to change filter every time)

start putting miles on it...stay in the SMOOTH zone of the motor, change oil way too rings etc are cutting....again...same filter ok

keep fine tunin that brass idle mixture...always do it hot

never lug...keep idled up at bout 1000....poppity,pop,poppity pop,pop no potatoe, potatoe, stay out of traffic after 3,4,500start varying rpms and speeds trying to widen the smooth zone...that thing will pull like a truck, so even taking it easy on it is a blast...

looking at the s&s manual...they would like you to keep it below 3500 when ever possible...and of course..lugging is even worse

they also want you to take it easy till 2500 miles on the monster motors....i think its not so bad when the bike has the power of 3 h-d motors...point is if it feels stressed, it is...thats why its called breakin...dont stress it...cause it WILL do it just takes life off the end of the motor, which is really the whole point of the breakin

when i get about 1500 miles i let er rip every now and again.....just for a sec...and never much past 4500 till the full me they feel most broke in around 6000-7000 miles, so take good care till then..oil is cheap, and filters are meant to last 2000 miles, so dump it and put some more in

when you hit 7000 miles or so...they become really wicked, and smooth, like a chainsaw

oh yeah/put a guage on it before you start...please remember this thread for the next guy, im no good at that

if no dial back lite:

you will need to know what your advance mark looks like(call jims for ultima, s&s for them or refer to manual) its one of those things i never need to know and there have been too may diff to remember...besides...i have a dial back...

center that advance mark...front cyl...comp stroke(finger over hole method, for air to rush out)

center adv mark...mark pulley as in the other method, and time as in the other method

enclosed primaries, i drain fluid or not....scribe alt rotor, over and center punch inner primary


to adjust s&s acc pump...usuaslly do this after that critical first 50

also done on "hot" bike and with bike idled up like a road king

"hot" is a technical term for the point where a bike very slightly idles up by itself...after a cold start

turn screw on front of carb(towards front of bike) all the way in
with it idling rap throttle quickly....will go puuuuuuuu and sound like its dying...turn out 1/4

do it again..puuuuu
at some point itll go rrrrrrrr
back up bout 1/2 turn and do it it smaller increments till it goes RRRRRRRRRR

less is better...not more....

to dial in the main jet after you got a thousand or so on it:

turn acc pump off(clockwise all the way in)

take off VERY slowly...increase speed as slowly as possible...around 2500-3000 you will feel ,hear a the running.
that is the crossover from int jet to main jet...the second you feel it...back off a teeny bit then GAG THE HELL OUT OF IT
if it goes thru that bobble ok..go up a size...but try a few times to be sure
when you go up and it wont take that gas(pow,pow,pow,pow)...go down a are done
readjust acc pump

i usually readjust push rods at 2-300 miles(cause they are hard to do in a dry motor) will have to readjust the carb(but not rejet)

find TDC again on front or rear cylinder
loosen pushrod till floppy
lengthen till it gets zero lash(spins freely..but is metal to metal)
lengthen 3 complete turns
hold everything still...and tighten jamnut
at this point the rod will be HARD to turn
wait till it will turn easily(lifter bled down)
sometimes this takes 20 mins or so

find tdc other cyl, and do same

dont turn motor till lifters bleed down, if one doesnt....readjust that rod
this does not apply to s&s motors

this is for s&s only(due to limited travel kit)

one cyl...find TDC
lengthen pushrods 5 turns
wait 20 mins...if they spin...lengthen 3 more turns...if they spin after 20....3 more
whatever.....till they wont spin(lifter collapsed completely, valve lifted off seat)

ok a FLAT is one side of a nut..get it? 6 to a nut

shorten a pushrod..all of a sudden it will get loose...that is flat ONE...go FIVE more....6 total turn right?

lock it down EXACTLY there..EXACTLY!!!takes some getting used to using 3 wrenches

if you lose your place or count...relengthen till you have the lifter collapsed again...and readjust

do the other pushrod...

then TDC other cylinder....and do same exact procedure

S&S ONLY!!!!!!

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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2005, 02:52 PM
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spark plug reference, over all nice tech site

and SSW+ owners buy for twincam
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2005, 07:26 PM
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Found this on the S&S site, thought some might find it useful.

How should I break-in my new S & S engine?
NOTE - S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline.

CAUTION - Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle.

CAUTION - If engine is run with foreign material in
the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine
damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank
is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or
replace oil lines before installing engine in

Engine Break-In Procedure
Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance
and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in
as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin
will assure longer engine life and will prevent
unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused
by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S

A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one
minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack
throttle or subject to any loads during this period
as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at
this time. During this time, check to see that oil
pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil
tank, and that no leaks exist.

B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any
leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the

C. After engine has cooled, start up again and
allow the motor to build some heat. Engine
should be run no longer than three to four
minutes. When the cylinders become warm/
hot to the touch (approximately 150a) shut the
motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow
the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and
continue to watch for problems.

D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each
successive time it should take slightly longer to
warm up and you can increase the temp slightly
each time (+10a). You can be more liberal each
time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously
from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Dont
be too concerned with final carb settings at this
time because idle speed and mixture cannot
be correctly set until the motor reaches full
operating temperature. The motor should not
reach that temperature during these cycles. Do
not allow engine temperature to become
excessive. After the motor has cooled to room
temperature for the final time you are ready to
start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.

E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings
and piston break-in. Engine damage is most
likely to occur during this period. Keep heat
down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging
the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary
the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We
recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.

F. The next 500 miles should be spent running
engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph.
Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not
lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We
recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
CAUTION - Lugging or running engine prematurely at
sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and
other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if
engine is not broken in properly.

G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can
be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can
be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle
can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid
overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine:
no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer
towing or sidecar operation.

H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and
adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can
now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun!
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 09:41 AM
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Gypsy, I tried doing a search but this thread is all I could fined.
Im getting ready to fire up a HD Twin cam B Crate motor, I know that they fire them up at the factory, but on the first fire up is there anything I should be on the look out for?
Its a 95 motor, crane ignition, Weber duel down draft carbs; I have synthetic 20-50 in the motor and tranny. Also do you think I need an oil pressure gauge before I start it
Any tips?
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 09:46 AM
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i would just let oil sit for a few days in the tank to make sure its getting to the motor, and use the return oil line to make sure its pumping back to the tank.
i always like oil guages, but since your motor is a prerun motor, i know its pumping fine, as long as its getting oil to it.

you really dont have the same worries i guess.

gonna show us some photos i hope when you get that puppie running.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 10:04 AM
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Thanks gypsy, the oil lines where a real bitch with the long starter, and the lines going to the motor wasnt much easier, so im hoping the oil returns. Ill keep an eye on the oil in the tank hopefully ill see it moving.
Im planning on running the motor for about hour then ill change the oil and filter, then ill follow the normal break in procedures. Getting ready to tool a seat, and waiting on a couple little parts from chromemasters.
Ill definitely post pics. I think youll like it.
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 10:10 AM
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i think i will too.
try not to run it that long sitting still
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:14 AM
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Ill put the turbo shop fan on it
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 02:27 PM
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Gypsy, I'm patiently waiting for my 145 to get back from S&S. Total rebuild, after our lil buddy chippy dyno'd it at sturgis and cracked a cylinder. I hear this motor has an ignition that limits rpms, then every 10 hrs of operation it raises that limit by 500 rpms till ? True? Does S&S start their motors before shipping? I don't want to screw it up like lil chippy did before.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2005, 02:44 PM
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they may do it on a factory rebuild, but ive never seen a prerun S&S motor, i kinda doubt it unless its requested. that motor needs at least 1000 miles or so before it goes on a dyno, more likely 2000 miles.

i have never gotten anywhere near a rev limiter till a motor is broken in...anyway.
i havent heard that about thier ignition, i know the rev limits are programmable, and every 5/6 hours of use the motor(ignition) detects your driving patterns, fuel usage, reading from knock and map sensors etc...and modifies the ignitions computer, for advance, fuel maps etc. as far as a preprogrammed revlimiter that raises its level based on time...i really dont know. a new one on me.

my advice is break it in in the cold, very gradually and cange the oil after startup, and after 100 miles, and every 200/300 after that. NO LUGGING AT ALL...more important than over revving.

Last edited by gypsy chopper; 12-30-2005 at 02:47 PM..
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2005, 03:32 AM
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Gypsy, going back to Luckydevils post, have`nt I read before that its not recommended to run a new motor on synthetic until run in peroid is over?, or is it ok with twin cams?. Just an observation on the safe side!.

" Limp Bizkit sucks fucken dick"

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Old 12-31-2005, 04:36 AM
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all i know is what i read, i tend to believe sources that have no interest in your choice(cause they dont sell oil. they sell motors)
at this time they say dont break in with synthetic.

to tell the truth, as long as they say that about breakin....i personally dont see any reason to change at all. so i dont.
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Old 01-02-2006, 06:08 AM
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Gypsy, whats your feelings on a digital timing light instead of a dial back. I have a dial back but its been through hell at the dirt track so I would like to buy a new one to check the timing on my bike.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 06:09 AM
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i use a digital snap-on with the tach built in, and have for about 9/10 years.
pricey, but well worth it.
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 06:12 AM
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Autozone sells an Actron digital light with built in tach for 100$. Do you think it will get the job done? I won't be using it half as much as you use yours.
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