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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 06:56 AM
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i think it would, but i would try before i tear up the reciept, some folks have had problems with various lights picking up the signal.

worth a shot.
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Old 01-02-2006, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by freeway
Gypsy, going back to Luckydevils post, have`nt I read before that its not recommended to run a new motor on synthetic until run in peroid is over?, or is it ok with twin cams?. Just an observation on the safe side!.
Freeway,
There are a million opinions on breaking in a new motor with synthetic oil.
Look at it this way it’s the best oil, it’s been proven, + it run cooler.
So don’t you want the “Best” oil in it at break in?
I don’t think synthetic is any “slipperier” than regular oil.
New H-D’s are rolling out the door with 20-50 synthetic oil.

Thanks for looking out for me...
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2006, 10:11 AM
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Now this is what these forums are all about!!!
Here's a cold one for Gypsy and all others who start and participate in productive threads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2006, 10:28 AM
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I was told by the local shop here that it didn't really matter what kind of oil you use to break-in the motor, just make sure you change it regularly while doing so.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2006, 01:34 PM
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Would anyone know the proper oil pressure? I have a hybrid Evo/Twin and just put a gauge on it. I ran it a few times just let it idle ,900-1100 rpm, for a few minutes and it was showing mid 30's. I want to have the idle just low enough to have that slow butta sound, the wife's word for it. But of course I want the correct oil pressure. Any help Thanks!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2006, 04:27 PM
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gee i thought you put err aginst the curb and do a long tire smoking burn out to break errr in ? i guess i watch too many biker build offs.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2006, 08:00 AM
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That's funny. The wife yelled at me not to do a burn out in the garage when I cranked my custom up. That's what I get from making her watch the build offs with me.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2007, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREANMEANY1
gee i thought you put err aginst the curb and do a long tire smoking burn out to break errr in ? i guess i watch too many biker build offs.
It's like 50 miles will make-or-break the perfect break-in? Show me the material you are going to chew away and make the ring end gap grow. At what point am I to believe the ring will bed-in, when at 20K miles, you will measure the same ring gap.
GREAN, A smokey break-in, will only cook your tire flat in the center and leave a burn spot on the rug, (garage floor).

If you, "blue print" an engine, you are locked into those numbers. That means, the oil clearances between parts are (theoretically) not lose or tight. This also means, WOT this engine to red line and never look back.

Disclaimer: Engine parts grow slower than others. WOT a cold engine, you heat the "whole piston" (dissipates heat down the skirt), faster than the cylinder wall (molecules) can grow and move out of the way = Scored Piston.

Who is waiting overnight for oil to settle? Oil will find every little hole/miss-machined part as soon as you pour the last can in. Light off the bike and the pressure in the crankcase will purge thru the pores of a poor (casting) set of cases, if not at the (case) split. Bubble traps can be displaced by tilting the bike either way, so the oil fills the void.

I try to read how oil, metallurgy, and elementary physics play in all this. I think without knowing basic theory, people make up any theory. If I use basic physics (principles), I can break-down the theory others present. You will have to decide in the end.
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