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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2017, 08:34 AM
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S&S Super E carb problem on Shovelhead

Hey guys, been a minute since Ive posted a question. I'm having an issue with a new-ish build. 1980 FXE all stock with 4 spd ratchet. The problem i'm having is that when going down the road and trying to accelerate the damn thing sputters and wants to die until i roll OFF. Then it seems to go back to normal. Quick acceleration is non-existent. Seems dog slow with even a slow roll ON. I believe I understand the problem to be the air bleed jet or lack there of. I have jetted and re-jetted. The combo I have now works pretty well except for the above mentioned.

I went down from:
72 to .66 main
31 to .295 intermediate.

I have NO AIR BLEED. This is an older Super E that I inherited. It came with the .40 hole. I read on some forum about drilling that hole out to .56 or .59 to make the main come on later. I attempted this but Im a little confused by this. I originally was trying to drill to tap with a 5/16 24 for a new jet but that didnt work so well. Luckily, I stopped to check progress and noticed that I had drilled about the depth of the jet to be installed but there was still no opening. I assume that this small port should intersect the other air port passage that is in the front of the carb near the air cleaner...Correct?? I was afraid to drill to far down and destroy this carb.

My options now seem to to be fill the 5/16 hole with solder and re-drill to the correct size for the jet or continue drilling with a #53 bit to open that hole up to the proper .59 size. My only concern is - Does that air bleed hole intersect another passage way or am I about to drill through the whole damn carb and Royally F$%*@ it up??

Thanks. ANY ADVICE IS WELCOME!!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2017, 10:50 AM
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I would almost have to look at the carb but I would really recommend trying a known good carburetor if you can find one. I myself would chalk it up to experience and get a new carburetor but like I said I would really need to look at yours. That being said, what ignition are you running? If you still have weights and springs in your nose cone make sure that they're not sticking.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain America View Post
I would almost have to look at the carb but I would really recommend trying a known good carburetor if you can find one. I myself would chalk it up to experience and get a new carburetor but like I said I would really need to look at yours. That being said, what ignition are you running? If you still have weights and springs in your nose cone make sure that they're not sticking.
Daytona Ignition.
I think the carb is good to go. I just did a rebuild kit on it and everything is sound. Starts first kick almost every time. I just cant figure the mid to high speed sputter out.
I borrowed this pic from another older post but the red circle is what I am talking about. It should intersect (I think) the air passage leading to the front air port near the air cleaner (this port is usually plugged). I do not have that jet that is in this pic. I was trying to drill for that jet but drilled to wide of a hole. Luckily the hole doesnt go deep so I think I can just scrap that idea and drill the .56 hole all the way through until it intersects...if it does indeed do that.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:12 PM
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It's almost always the carb...with issues like yours...I don't believe it's the air bleed but...Here's an old thread...if you want to do the air bleed thing...

anybody running a G body carb on their 100" smooth

Last edited by Mr Scary; 06-27-2017 at 01:19 PM..
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Old 06-27-2017, 03:11 PM
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I s this a new build? or have you ridden it before,and developed problems?...what type air cleaner are you running,?... hopefully not a cone, some of these after market air cleaners can make those symptoms..
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Old 06-27-2017, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
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I s this a new build? or have you ridden it before,and developed problems?...what type air cleaner are you running,?... hopefully not a cone, some of these after market air cleaners can make those symptoms..
Velosity stack. And it's new. Rebuilt engine and rebuilt carb. 200 miles.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Scary View Post
It's almost always the carb...with issues like yours...I don't believe it's the air bleed but...Here's an old thread...if you want to do the air bleed thing...

anybody running a G body carb on their 100" smooth
Any idea what it may be? The pic of the open jet hole is exactly what I was looking for! The carb opens and closes perfectly. Starts great. Idle is great. Take off too. Can't figure out the flat spot and sputter. Rebuilt the whole thing. New manifold seals too. No leaks.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:20 PM
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Try running with some layers of porous cloth or something similar over your intake(velocitystack) one at a time
to see if you might be lean..there was a thread on that here, and the guy straightened it out by blocking off part of his cone filter..I also had the same problem on my old Yamaha and it straightened me out..
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
Try running with some layers of porous cloth or something similar over your intake(velocitystack) one at a time
to see if you might be lean..there was a thread on that here, and the guy straightened it out by blocking off part of his cone filter..I also had the same problem on my old Yamaha and it straightened me out..
Wouldnt the plugs show if I were lean? Theyre actually a little black looking. Not wet but black. I'll give it a shot. I thought if youre lean then you may have some sneezing at the carb. My bike just boggs down and almost dies, unless I roll off. Then it sorta catches up. Almost like its choking out in the higher rpms.

Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:33 PM
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It Rus out of gas at that spot is what it sounds like..too much air..Not saying it is the problem,
and it may not be........... but it sure sounds like the same problem....bogging with throttle at one spot..
He ended up stuffing a tennis ball into one of his cones....I made a gasket and made the hole a little smaller than the intake to make it richer..still didn't run as good as the stock air cleaner...
too easy a test to not try it..
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Old 06-29-2017, 01:06 PM
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Frank, I'll take this one... ahem...

Shove52's solution is a good test. A velocity stack looks cool, but unrestricted air does not increase volume of air in your cylinders. Japanese motorcycles are very well designed in that regard, which is why switching from an air box to pods results in the same spotty performance.

So, what to do?
1. Do as shovel52 said
2. Check your accelerator pump and adjust if needed, also examine the rubber boot for pin holes)
3. Maybe install an atomizer screen--it helps.
4. Distributor-to-coil; check for shorts.
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsdiamond View Post
Frank, I'll take this one... ahem...

Shove52's solution is a good test. A velocity stack looks cool, but unrestricted air does not increase volume of air in your cylinders. Japanese motorcycles are very well designed in that regard, which is why switching from an air box to pods results in the same spotty performance.

So, what to do?
1. Do as shovel52 said
2. Check your accelerator pump and adjust if needed, also examine the rubber boot for pin holes)
3. Maybe install an atomizer screen--it helps.
4. Distributor-to-coil; check for shorts.
Yea. I'm going to try that this weekend. The pump is set correctly and I just did a rebuild kit on the carb so the boot is new. I do have a screen that fits inside the stack just to keep the big stuff out.
Thanks.
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