BIG SUPRISE... Revtech 110 Issues...

sLomoshun · #1 (**permalink**) 08-08-2012, 03:27 PM

I got this bike over a month ago and had to jump it off of a running Scion XB to get it to fire up because the battery was soooo dead it would just CLUNK everytime I hit the start button. The bike fired up no problem and I Immediately ordered an Oddyssey battery since they claimed to have 545 amps for five seconds even though they're only rated at 180 cca but whatever. In the mean time I was cleaning up the wiring (removing butt connectors and soldering the wires) when I noticed the front header pipe had a decent sized hole in it near the flange... no big deal. I ordered a set of V&H big radius pipes. Now I figured I would change the oil and tranny fluid so I did (Mobil 1 v-twin/ Redline shockproof).

The pipes and battery show up but I've been so busy at work I barely got time to throw them on last night. I got everything installed, tightened up ALL starter and battery connections, turned the key, hit the start button and CLUNK! I thought WTF!?! I kicked the bike up into 6th gear and rocked it off the compression stroke, hit the start button and CLUNK! Tried it about 15 more times and got the infamous CLUNK everytime!!! I was so pissed I called it a night and went to sleep before I did something I'd regret later.

This morning I did some research regarding the starter jackshaft. I pulled the primary cover off to find out that I have a Primo belt drive (enclosed obviously). I took a look at the starter jackshaft and it looked a little beat up. The teeth looked like the had flat spots near the top of the tooth. It also felt kinda loose but I'm new to v-twins so I'm not sure if that's normal.

What am I doing wrong? This motor does not have compression releases. Where should I start to trouble shoot? Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated!!

Pics of the primary:

joyridin' · #2 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 04:06 AM

Either the wires are corroded and not getting enough power to the starter, or the starter is crap/solenoid is crap. My teeth looked like that and the bike turned over without a problem. Made a little noise when the jackshaft hit the ring gear, but it turned over and started.

Barefoot Choppa · #3 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 04:28 AM

Put some compression releases in it and call it a day...

Captain America · #4 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 06:08 AM

Revtech engines are notorious for turning over hard, if it's been starting fine until now I'd go with joyridin and check wiring, battery, starter draw, etc. If you've had a tough time starting it the whole time you've owned it then compression releases will help you out.

sLomoshun · #5 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 08:37 AM

Well, last night I ordered a Bullet Pruf Jackshaft but it seems like compression releases are the way to go. The only thing I cant figure out is why the bike wont start with the Oddyssey battery or even jumped off of a non running car. The car NEEDS to be running and that boggles my mind. Why would this motor require that much juice?

Anyways the heads on my bike dont have a port for comp releases. Does somebody still make the spark plug ones?

Captain America · #6 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sLomoshun

The only thing I cant figure out is why the bike wont start with the Oddyssey battery or even jumped off of a non running car. The car NEEDS to be running and that boggles my mind. Why would this motor require that much juice?

It the starter is bad(drawing too many amps), or if the cables are bad or have bad connections, then yes, it could require allot of amps to turn that starter. You've asked the proper question actually, "why would this motor require that much juice", the motor you need to concentrate on first is the starter motor, not your engine. You need to make sure you have a known good, fully charged battery, and do a starter draw test at this point.

RedWings · #7 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 10:35 AM

you have to slow charge those batteries when you first get them to bring them up to full charge. If its starts off a car then you got bad terminals somewhere. check ground from batt to starter bolt first, I use 8 gauge but lots of guys go even bigger and use copper or brass lugs I actually use gold plated copper lugs. The jackshaft will be loose with the side cover off. The teeth look fine. The belt seems out of whack with the front pulley, may be just the picture. Ok, so put a trickle charge on the batt overnight, clean up your ground connections, clean up your + connection to starter and try again.

sLomoshun · #8 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedWings

you have to slow charge those batteries when you first get them to bring them up to full charge. If its starts off a car then you got bad terminals somewhere. check ground from batt to starter bolt first, I use 8 gauge but...

I connected the batt to the trickle charger for 2 days prior to installing it. I also used 1/0 gauge wire for the - and + starter cables. The Starter is grounded to the batt and the batt is grounded to the frame. Should I run a ground from the starter to the frame too?

Pic:

The big ass silver cables are the - and + starter cables...

sLomoshun · #9 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Captain America

It the starter is bad(drawing too many amps), or if the cables are bad or have bad connections, then yes, it could require allot of amps to turn that starter... You need to make sure you have a known good, fully charged battery, and do a starter draw test at this point.

How do I do a starter draw test? I'm new to all this so thanks for the info and patience

sLomoshun · #10 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 11:16 AM

I read a post where Milenko installed some sort of "coil switch" which supposedly cured the hard start issue he was having and if a lil time and even less money is involved I figure it's worth a shot. I'm ready to throw any and all suggestions at this bike until the b!tch fires!

I snapped a pic of the coil wiring:

Im not sure why there is a butt connector on one of the blk/wht wires with two blue wires going to opposite coils when there is another blk/wht wire already connected to the coil on the right. If you look closely you'll see its doubled up on that post. Is that normal? How would I wire in a "coil switch" with the wires I have?

sLomoshun · #11 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 12:44 PM

UPDATE: I turned the key to the first position and the coils have juice. I think thats good because it means the PO wired this bike so that the lights are 2nd key position = more juice to the starter... right? Are ALL four coil connections supposed to have juice? I put a test light to them and they all lit it up...

sLomoshun · #12 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 11:10 PM

I re-did the wiring on the coils because I didnt like the way the PO did it and some wires were starting to crack. I went down to my local welding supply shop and had two new grounds made out of 1/0 ga wire with copper connectors and ran a ground from the batt to the frame. So now the bike has a ground from starter to batt, starter to frame and batt to frame. I had high hopes for her to fire but... NOPE

I once again kicked her into 6th, rocked her back off the comp stroke, hit the start button and CLUNK! I had the seat off and noticed that once I got the clunk, I heard a psssshhhhh sound (which happens every time) but the oil tank plug pushed out of the filler neck about 1/2". Is that normal? I thought that pssshhhhh sound was coming from the carb, not the oil tank....

sLomoshun · #13 (**permalink**) 08-09-2012, 11:25 PM

BEFORE:

AFTER:

DarinZ · #14 (**permalink**) 08-10-2012, 04:54 AM

Bad Starter!

Captain America · #15 (**permalink**) 08-10-2012, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sLomoshun

How do I do a starter draw test? I'm new to all this so thanks for the info and patience

You need an ammeter, it would clamp around the large wire to the starter and will read the amount of amps it's drawing, most starters draw 140-180 amps when they're new and all is well. What you could do is make sure you have a good connection to the battery and hook up a remote starter switch to bypass the rest of your wiring. If it turns over fine, then you know you have a wiring problem. You could also hook up a known good battery and do the same to see if your original battery is the culprit.