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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 07:06 AM
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Aluminum sprocket(s) is another word for, unsprung weight. The anal racers, chop off my weight idea for aluminum.

You may reference that chain pull, but the real deal is to pull out the measuring tape, slam down a chain rung, measure 12 inches and then some at the tight rung all stretched out. So, think like this; Every time I go around the deeper (front) sprocket, my pin is being chewed off like the dry rollers you see in that chain photo.

That means, half the pin is wearing out. The weakest link and all that? Well, that pin was too weak to remain a pin. If half that pin is gone = Buckle my (brake) shoe, or thru the engine case; in a wad it goes.

But if you were a real biker, with real cut offs, with real oil flingay ding-ding up one side of your back... Grease is better! Rubber glove up and squeeze it into the links, (pin). Take a hand full off your denim, grease your car with it. Get it?
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:15 PM
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Sorry.......cntrhub..........I didn't understand a single fuckin' thing you just said.....
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choppersean View Post
Sorry.......cntrhub..........I didn't understand a single fuckin' thing you just said.....
dont worry we hardly ever know what he is talking about... I have to get my decoder out...
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 05:54 PM
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Well, shezam! Try this:

1. Find a pair of scissors. Open them up. Go back and forth with them, see if you can feel it click back and forth?
2. That says, I only opened the scissors so far. That gap is that load it has to resist against the paper being cut.
a. The upper blade.
b. The lower blade.
c. The screw that it pivots on; so is a link pin's analogy.

If you found a scissor without any gap at the screw, imagine you tie, one scissor handle to each other's scissor handle >> end to end <<<. Multiply each gap of that scissor pivot wear. That more or less is a chain link after ling that is worn out.

If you had oil or grease to ride over that scissor [pivot], each time you cut a slice, you could wear that pivot out a lot less. In other words, it is not the link plate, not the roller, but the pin that is the worn part = Being chewed in half.

Still need that decodering?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 06:10 PM
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in other words.......... more........lube.............
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:08 AM
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You have probably gotten the majority of wear out of that drive assembly (chain and two sprockets) but you can continue with it if you keep it well lubricated.

The wear is normal and is not just limited to the chain. The sprockets have the same amount of wear.

One thing not to do is to replace the chain only.

Worn sprockets will accelerate wear to a new chain, maybe by a multiple of two times as fast.

You can do a quick test on a chain wear by pulling on the chain at the back of the sprocket half way between the where the chain is going on and off the sprocket.

A good chain and sprocket set up will have no looseness, a worn set up will allow quite a bit of movement.

If you look at a sprocket, the space between the teeth will have a completely circular and symmetrically round profile from tooth to tooth. This space is made to fit the roller of the chain perfectly. As the sprocket wears the space becomes oblong (oval).

Always replace the whole system as a set.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:46 AM
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Just spoke with the great folks over at PMP Sprockets. PMPsprockets Motorcycle Sprockets Custom motorcycle sprockets
I know I haven't seen the final product yet, but they have been super responsive and helpful to this point.

I emailed them a picture of my sprocket and then sent them the sprocket ID dimention, the bolt hole diameter, and the bolt hole radius from center. Also told them 530 chain, 48 tooth..........and they will custom make a replacement facscimile of my original all for $90 plus $10 shipping. They will produce today (Friday), ship Monday, and I'll have it next Thursday!

Gonna replace the chain, too. Even though it doesn't have many miles on it, the thing is almost 8 years old and I am kind of worried about the O-rings since rubber does break down and hardend and such over time. Worth the investment, I think.

Thanks for all the advice everyone!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedWings View Post
Hold the chain straight out in 1 hand just as its mounted on the sprockets but sideways, if it curves down more than 1" overall, replace it.
Red, are we talking sportster or 10 foot chopper chain? IME, just like anything, some are better then others. The first chain I ran on my chop was a POS and had to be replaced after 2K miles. The next chain has stood the test and has not need an adjustment in over 3 years.

I never hear of anybody talking about the drive sprocket off the tranny.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2012, 06:43 PM
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yeah you're right I wasn't thinking about those longer chains, it'll be different. Chains are awful expensive nowadays so its hard to figure if you should go with a real expensive chain or real cheap but I wouldn't go middle of the road chain.
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