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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2011, 09:54 PM
Club Chopper Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: McKinney, TX
Bike Year, Make, Engine: Custom Rigid Bobber 127"
Posts: 13
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Thanks for all the replies guys....

Definitely helps me to decide what direction I want to try here.... You know I might just try more of a stock sized rear wheel/tire instead back there. I probably will either do that or I will go with the rigid mount with the drag link. I don't see any point of trying to mill any more stuff down..... I already tried to mill one mounting bracket down on one of the 2 piece brake setups I have and I ended up just ruining it... I really want to use the HHI 4 piston setup I have for it so I'll figure something out.

Can anyone tell me how much bigger this tire is in the rear than say a stock softail? I just want to be sure that will fix the issue going to a smaller wheel/tire.

The rear is a whitewall Dunlop 150/80B-16 71H.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2018, 10:03 AM
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Location: Tucson,AZ, AZ
Bike Year, Make, Engine: Custom metric chopper
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Just in case you are still not happy.

First off is the photo of the wheel centered in the rear fender.
That is a mistake.

The rear wheel MUST be centered in the frame.

The rear fender could be off center , then the rear wheel will be OFF center!!!

Put a string from the neck and center it down the backbone of the frame to
the rear tire. Stand in back of the bike to look at it.

First get the rear wheel centered in the frame. Don' let it move.
Then you can get the rear sprocket or pulley lined up with the engine sprocket.
What ever it takes!

When making spacers use a thickness gage to get proper thickness spacers.
You do not want the frame under undue stress when you tighten the rear axle bolt.

And the final part is getting the brake caliper mounted and centered over the disc.
Then measure for spacers.

Last edited by donald branscom; 06-27-2018 at 10:06 AM..
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