Dynatek 2000i Ignition/Electrical Issue

MickieN · #1 (**permalink**) 10-23-2011, 08:52 PM

All,

A few weeks ago I was out for a ride and the bike quit on me. After getting it home I narrowed the problem down to a no spark condition. I'm running a pretty simple setup with a Dynatek 2000i ignition, coil and two plug wires - that's it.

When I checked the ignition it appeared not to be working, no pulse indicated while cranking and no spark. I sent it back to Dynatek and after a couple of weeks they contacted me and indicated that the ignition was fine.

I have checked the coil and the resistance ratings are within specs - right on in fact. The bike cranks strongly and there's gas flowing.

Does anyone have any ideas? I am definitely not getting a spark from either plug, which seems to rule out the plug wires or plugs. Could the coil be bad and still indicating the correct ohm readings?

Any suggestions would be welcome...

Thanks,
Lou

scooterluke · #2 (**permalink**) 10-24-2011, 10:47 AM

Dynatech is a top notch company and if they said that the module is good then it must be. I would start with the coil. You should run at least a 3 ohm coil with the 2000i along with at least 7mm plug wires. The factory coil and wires are not good enough. Also if you are not running the Voels switch make sure that the leads are taped off and not grounded. There are cheap knock off coils out there but I would spend the money and get the matching Dynatech coil. Custom Chrom part number 09100.

Ricky-D · #3 (**permalink**) 10-25-2011, 07:46 AM

Is it the ignition that plugs in and is under the seat?

Or is it the ignition that mounts in the nosecone?

***

MechWerks · #4 (**permalink**) 10-25-2011, 05:19 PM

Make sure there is 12V to the coil and ignition module AND that there is also proper ground. A volt meter is essential troubleshooting tool for electricity (even the simple stuff). A test light will work in a pinch. Jumper wires with alligator clips work well to bypass things like relays, switches and breakers to ensure voltage and ground are available. The jumpers isolate the system (by addition and removal) and proove where issues might be located.

MechWerks · #5 (**permalink**) 10-25-2011, 05:23 PM

A coil can be tested by applying 12v power (and ensuring there is proper ground). Removing the voltage will fire the coil (essentially what the ignition module does...connects and disconnects the ground of the coil causing current flow, magnetic flux, collapse of the flux and transformer voltage increase). Adding and removing power...or, applying power and adding, removing ground will cause secondary current and should be visable as a spark on a plug laying on a ground surface (plug connected to spark lead and laying on engine surface).

MickieN · #6 (**permalink**) 10-25-2011, 06:40 PM

Ricky,

Its the nose cone version.

Mechwerks,

I'll try testing the coil as you suggested.

Thanks guys,
Lou

MickieN · #7 (**permalink**) 11-05-2011, 06:17 PM

All,

Finally had time to go out and test the coil, it was fine. Started checking the wiring and the 12V wire from the circuit board to the coil was not reading 12V when connected to the coil at either post (only mV).

I replaced that wire and the ignition started working, at least indicating that it was receiving voltage, and I'm getting 12V at both the coil posts. Seems weird because that wire is showing continuity, maybe a cold solder joint? Strange that it would happen out of the blue, but hopefully that was the problem.

Lou