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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2011, 07:01 PM
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Clutch adjust

Hopefully I explain correctly. I like when my bike starts pulling away when the clutch lever is about 3/4 inch from bar as opposed to an inch or more. My bike's current friction zone or bike starts moving when the lever is over an inch from bar. So I followed protocal and adjusted the screw out further from pushrod then the 1/4 turn after touching and then adjusted it the other way and neither seemed to give me what I wanted. A closer grab.

I have a Rivera Primo Brute III dry clutch. Which way should the screw be set it trying to achieve a clutch release 3/4 from handle bars ?

jim
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2011, 07:27 AM
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When you stack a bunch of pancakes, there is so much stack. That height is all stock, no friction wear.

As the clutches wear, remove a pancake from the center. That is like saying you are wearing out the friction material, and look at how the top pancake dropped.

See how you have to move that screw down into the pancakes? Not move the screw out and away from the stack.

You follow the stack in. When you see the set screw dive deep and now you see threads showing at the lock nut? See that?

So, you now send that screw into the pressure plate ever so slight when it stops; so do you. There is no more pushing in. Now, turn the set screw out 1/4 turn, lock the nut down and hold the screw from turning.


This was done so as you have all that slack at the cable. Now, run all that slack out of the cable so there is about zero at the clutch lever perch. Meaning, if you keep turning the cable gap out of the lever, stop once there is [an ever so no more gap] you be pulling the lever ever so soft, remember.

If you figured out the sequence, that gap at the lever should be enough to try moving that clutch lever out like you were saying. Remember this; if that adjusting you did all correct on your own and you still had that lever moving way out there... Guess what? Buy all new steels and frictions.

What did that change; it moves the pressure plate out farther = Which sends you lever out just the way you like [before] it wore out. So, are you finding out how a clutch is worn by an adjustment? Do you see where the lever leaves so soon now? Because that whole deal has such a short throw; once it holds old parts in place.

It's a design thing if we understand how that clutch release feels from the grip.

1. If I release in the middle or almost from the grip out, I have a long spring throw.
2. If I release lever and it starts at the grip, I have a short spring throw because the pressure plate is not pushed out as far.
3. If I screw that adjust in, the springs are getting tighter as the pressure plate sinks in. I can't push the pressure plate farther out because I lost a pancake and it dropped deeper into the basket.
4. If I didn't screw up the walk, the lever is going to place the clutch in motion if not drag you forward because the release is not father out but right now at the grip!
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Last edited by cntrhub; 06-25-2011 at 07:32 AM..
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2011, 07:30 AM
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have you got the old or new style clutch?
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:52 AM
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The adjusting screw needs to be set correctly regardless.

What you want can be handled by the adjustment in the clutch cable.

You're doing it incorrectly by trying to use the clutch adjustment screw.

***
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky-D View Post
What you want can be handled by the adjustment in the clutch cable.
Disagree.

Quote:
You're doing it incorrectly by trying to use the clutch adjustment screw.
Disagree again.


Clutch lever: I have a hand around a tennis ball and I have perfect squeeze.
Clutch lever: I have a hand around a golf ball and I have less grab around less material.

Clutch screw: I have a design that has a full throw at what is called, "Pack"
Clutch screw; I have a design that has less lever throw as the pack, 'Wears'.

No, I cannot duplicate a lever throw with the springs now longer.
No, I cannot duplicate a lever throw with the pressure plate sunk deeper.
No, I have less screw head as in sunk deeper into the nut like finding middle ground to a valve lash is the same middle ground to the, "Pack."


Unless I missed something?
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky-D View Post
The adjusting screw needs to be set correctly regardless.

What you want can be handled by the adjustment in the clutch cable.

You're doing it incorrectly by trying to use the clutch adjustment screw.

***
sorry....not on any of my bikes...the cable adjustment adjusts slop in the lever from the set position ( I like my clutch adjusted so its pulling cable right from the start...not an 1/8" like the manufacturer wants)....the friction zone is adjusted at the pressure plate.
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cntrhub View Post
When you stack a bunch of pancakes, there is so much stack. That height is all stock, no friction wear.

As the clutches wear, remove a pancake from the center. That is like saying you are wearing out the friction material, and look at how the top pancake dropped.

See how you have to move that screw down into the pancakes? Not move the screw out and away from the stack.

You follow the stack in. When you see the set screw dive deep and now you see threads showing at the lock nut? See that?

So, you now send that screw into the pressure plate ever so slight when it stops; so do you. There is no more pushing in. Now, turn the set screw out 1/4 turn, lock the nut down and hold the screw from turning.


This was done so as you have all that slack at the cable. Now, run all that slack out of the cable so there is about zero at the clutch lever perch. Meaning, if you keep turning the cable gap out of the lever, stop once there is [an ever so no more gap] you be pulling the lever ever so soft, remember.

If you figured out the sequence, that gap at the lever should be enough to try moving that clutch lever out like you were saying. Remember this; if that adjusting you did all correct on your own and you still had that lever moving way out there... Guess what? Buy all new steels and frictions.

What did that change; it moves the pressure plate out farther = Which sends you lever out just the way you like [before] it wore out. So, are you finding out how a clutch is worn by an adjustment? Do you see where the lever leaves so soon now? Because that whole deal has such a short throw; once it holds old parts in place.

It's a design thing if we understand how that clutch release feels from the grip.

1. If I release in the middle or almost from the grip out, I have a long spring throw.
2. If I release lever and it starts at the grip, I have a short spring throw because the pressure plate is not pushed out as far.
3. If I screw that adjust in, the springs are getting tighter as the pressure plate sinks in. I can't push the pressure plate farther out because I lost a pancake and it dropped deeper into the basket.
4. If I didn't screw up the walk, the lever is going to place the clutch in motion if not drag you forward because the release is not father out but right now at the grip!
Makes sense not sure how much wear there is bike has 7000 miles. Must have plenty though due t not making a difference.

jim
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Old 06-25-2011, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedWings View Post
have you got the old or new style clutch?
The bike is an 2004. How would I tell?
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:53 PM
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Here is the variable = The owner.

I heard bmw clutches went out being they are like a car with one pressure plate and clutch face. These would burn out not by product, but my guess is the owner just had no clue how to shift. How much over rev they do not recognize. How much slip from a stop is being used, not a faster release. I had zero play at the clutch lever as in a hair trigger was all it took to release wheel from trans.

Not only that, most pull the lever in all the way. Most shift down and rub that ratio of tire to trans to engine speed and that slipping adds up. So, @ 30k miles when I sold the bmw, I never adjusted the clutch but once. The second time didn't need it as I went back to it's original setting. It would carry the front wheel as I released the clutch.

So, to ask how long a clutch lasts... Stop with the what/wear/why don't you buy a whole new pack of frictions and steels so you revert back to that move you remember. Are you burning out that pack? Are you riding with a few bad habits?
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:27 AM
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i have the same issue with my pro clutch. i have adjusted it many times. ive just come to live with it. the clutch has 8500 hard miles on it i know its time for replacement but it will last till winter. i leave a lil slop in the lever just so i get the let out closer to the grip!! seems to work for me!! lol
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:55 AM
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compare the size of your clutches to the old 4spd clutches and you'll see why they wear out. while your in there compare the diameter of the tranny shaft to the old 4spd also. Guys going back to old shovel, pan parts and bobbers aren't doing it to be cool (well some are) they're doing it because these parts are built for tanks. I look at all these new customs as a bunch of throw-away parts put together, they ain't gonna last.
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:49 AM
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im running a 6 speed baker with brute III closed primary and pro clutch all pulled by s&s 113. i plan to tear it all down this winter for new paint and such. any harm to be done in running the clutch this way??
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Old 08-30-2011, 08:54 AM
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not really, just keep it adjusted and don't pull to many hole shots with it.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:03 AM
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btw you have to have a little slop in the grip or it will automatically take the play out of the push rod and burn up the rod end or throw out bearing.
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