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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 03:57 AM
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Tonight I charged the battery to 12.8 volts and did a parasitic draw test to make sure all is good with no draw. Well all is good and i do not have a parasitic draw.

For anyone unfamiliar on how to perform this test what you do is remove either positive or negative cable and if you do positve cable be careful as not to create a spark.

After removal of battery cable take a test light connect from light end to cable end and the other light end to the battery terminal end you took the cable off.

Now if the test light illuminates you my friend get to start tracing circuits.

A parasitic draw is described usually as a relay or switch that is stuck in a closed position drawing amperage with the ignition key off.

So start pulling fuses or disconnecting all connected areas until light goes off at this point you have narrowed the problem area down. Remember to reconnect as you go to.

I took a video but it is pretty shitty filming yet I am going to try and attach it anyway.

I also checked voltage with the key in the light position without bike running and voltage started to drop like mad from 12.8 to 12.46 very fast.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:37 PM
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I have my battery in the bike and decided to change out a couple of wires that I felt could be a potential problem in the future.

I also realized that I had my voltage regulator connected to the aux of my circuit breaker not the copper batt post so I switched them.

I now have my battery hooked up to the tender which is a Deltran 800 jr tender waterproof 1.25 amps. On the tender the multi meter is stating 13.39 volts ?

I imagine that is what it maintains it at not sure though have to do more research.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 02:07 PM
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Always heard that the tenders shut down automatically at about 12.7...Battery should read the same 13.39 if the tender is not attached...You probably have a good full charge on it since its brand new
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 04:00 PM
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Clspht good afternoon and thanks for your quick response.

Actually the battery with the tender attached shows 13.39 volts.

When I disconnect it my voltage drops down to 12.8
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 07:43 PM
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I started my bike and checked the voltage at the battery while it was running showed 13.31 at idle.

I then turned the key to lighting position meter read 12.70 volts

I am assuming that this is a normal voltage drop I am going to pull my head light bucket and check the ground out.

Here is another thing I wanted to add that has nothing to do with this thread but i am going to mention it anyway.

If you happen to be one of those people who hate having to carry a cellular phone or should i say electronic leash as much as I do or should I say used to I have something to tell you if you did not know.

The brand of cell phone that I use and now find that I cannot be without is a BlackBerry 8310 Curve. This phone is incredible I have Internet access everywhere I go at a touch of a button.

On my phone I have a shortcut to Club Chopper and can view or post from any location as long as I have coverage. To me this proves to be a tool as well as an broken down on the side of the road emergency communication tool.

Here is an example your bike shut down on you and you are carrying the basic tools on your bike in a round leather pouch like I do with all the neccessities required for if it is broken on the side of the road repair kit. Example; circuit breakers, fuses, extra wire, leatherman tool or multi tool, electrical tape, relay, master link, flat and phillips head screwdrivers and what ever else you may need for your bike.

Well if you have a problem and happen to be stuck or just want to confirm what you already know but would like another person usually a very knowledgable person one who lives and breathes v-twin motorcycles for a livelihood. well you can communicate in real time even attach pictures to your post as to visually show others what you happen to be up against.

Anyway most of you probably are aware that your able to do this but if you didnt well you do know.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 08:04 PM
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Did you bring the rpms up when you were checking the voltage?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:13 PM
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Yes and I showed with key in ignition position 14.47 volts and with key in light position 13.31 volts

Scary I dont know if this can cause a problem or not I wasnot paying attention to what the hell I was doing and I started myu bike with the voltage regulator unplugged. Can this cause a potential problem?

Scary I have also come to find that my sprocket shaft oil seal is leaking a tad bit into my primary which is a BDL enclosed belt drive. I picked up a new seal today and in the process right now of replacing it.

It is interesting I came on to this thread to inquire about timing issues and now I feel I have jacked it so my apoligies to MikeV109.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 09:29 PM
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Shit....I thought this was your thread. LOL LOL LOL


As far as the unplugged reg...

When I test the output ...I unplug it to get to the pins. Fire it up and test.


I wouldn't worry about that.



13.3v with the lights on sounds low...If you are above idle.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-07-2009, 10:05 PM
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Yeah that was kind of what I was thinking as well and I am going to have to do a voltage drop test on both + and - sides.


Once again I thank you for your input I just got back from the store my wife interrupted my garage therapy so I now can meditate so to speak on my sprocket shaft seal.

Scary any thoughts on seal failure I dont mean to jump from one issue to the next yet unfortunately I am just trying to make sure my timing is right inadvertently well shit happens.

By the way I believe I just became the proud new owner of a 2009 CC thread LOL
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 04:40 PM
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Attachment 29233What would be the best way of going about pulling the seal off of the shaft and installing a new seal.

I believe there is two reasons for the seal to leak.

The first is that it is in backwards for my application of an enclosed belt drive.

The second is I recently changed to synthetic oil Mobil 1 20-50

Last edited by Micahanjello; 10-09-2009 at 09:47 PM..
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 08:41 PM
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Couple of sheet metal screws, wood screws etc...One on each side threaded in enough (not too deep) that you can grab them with a pair of vice grips, pliers etc...I use an ice pic...
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2009, 10:15 PM
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Clspht thanks for the response I am in my garage working on it at the moment.

I have my laptop out here so I dont have to stray to far.

Ok I am thinking after I get it out do I lube the inside of the lip of the seal with bearing grease ?

I have read to put some hylomar sealant which I have on the spacer I am not to clear on that?

I know my spring should be facing the motor and I imagine you slide the seal gingerly onto the spacer before seating the seal?

Clspht I thank you I dont want to fuck this new seal up I have a planned ride tommorrow and appreciate all the input.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2009, 12:07 PM
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I got the old seal out last night and cleaned the shit out of everything and installed the new seal.

Clspht I see you are on line if you could let me know that my procedure on installation is correct I would appreciate it so I can go forward.

1) Put hylomar blue on shaft splines where spacer rests and installed spacer.

2) Lubed spring side of seal with bearing grease and gently slipped over spacer.

3) I made a tool to install seal squarely unfortunately it cocked to one side a hair and I corrected that.

4) Put hylomar on the outside of the seal lip that mates to the spacer.

Do I seat the seal on the inside of the flange in the cases until it bottoms out?
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2009, 12:33 PM
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Mic...Sounds good...Bottom the seal...Just dont distort it...Run a bead of sealant around the outside edge..
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2009, 01:32 PM
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Thanks Clspht

Are you in reference to the seal lip or the outer metal edge that mates to the inner engine case lip?
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