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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clspht View Post
You earned the rest after dealing with me Man...I'll carry the banner..

You beat me down over this...



Also Mic...


I've seen people use the wrong timing mark.


I'm sure you used the right one...but I just wanted to mention it's the T:F mark.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2009, 07:53 PM
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Thank you fellas this information makes perfect sense to me.

I just rode my bike from Newport Beach to Huntington Beach about 8 miles and prior to my departure I richened my super g carb a tad seemed to run better with no waving sheet metal noises under acceleration.

Clspht thank you for your input which makes perfect sense to me. I set my ignition in the oem / voes mode in the past similar to how you have described in my neurotic state of trying to tune this motor but not as precise. When I set it in the voes mode it did seem to run alot better.

When I get home I will let her cool down and give it a go.

Again thank you for your information much appreciation
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2009, 08:19 PM
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Just curious what you had...and presently have for jets.



I can't stress how important it is to NOT ping!!!!!!!!!!!



Also...

Ultima does recommend the timing method that Chip mentioned.



Read this and follow it exactly.



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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:16 AM
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Ok check this shit out.
I am just about to leave Huntington Beach I put my helmet, glasses and gloves on put the key in my ignition I turn the key and WTF nothing.

I turn the key one more click to see if my lights come on and nothing. I pull my seat to access my wiring and start wiggling wires with the key still on and not even a slight blink from any light.

Let me tell you since I have been a member on CC my thinking in regards to when shit like this happens has put a different perspective on how to calmly proceed by process of elimination.

The place where my bike is at happens to be my inlaws so I had access to tools mainly a digital volt meter. My battery checked out as well as my circuit breaker, all aux fuses, 40 amp starter relay, all grounds and all positive feed wiring all had the same voltage 12.63.

Now I am thinking when I rode here I did not have one stumble or sign of electrical issue at all
and now I have power going to everything yet i turn the key on and nothing.

Well im thinking I gotta pull my keyed ignition cylinder off and test it mind you I have my father in law hovering over my shoulder asking me the same question in different ways.

What do you think the problem is my response was if I knew the answer to that question we would not be having this conversation now would we.

Has anybody had issues in the past with the internals of a three position off , run, lights ignition where something inside would cause a no power to the run, light position?

So trying to make a longer story short I decided all things are for a reason and put my scooter in their garage thank God I dont owe my inlaws any money or I would have been reluctant to.

I almost forgot Mr ,Scary my ignition is a crane HI -4 # 8-1100 a little different than the unit above. As far as my mark deffinitely T:F I know for sure cause I did it minimum of 15 times in my paranoia not to screw things up. My jetting if I recall on my S&S super G I would like to say a 78 and I am going to look around for the paper I wrote the sizes of my jetting on.

I am going to try and send a audio clip of my bike warming up with the accelerator pump on 1/3 of the way on.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 08:50 AM
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As far as your timing...You are confident that you are at 30. So for now leave it cause that's where you are supposed to be.


Now you need to start tracing starting from the battery.


Make sure the ground cable from the bat is secure at the engine /frame point of connection.

Make sure the cable from the bat to the starter lug is secure. Check the voltage at the starter lug. It could be as simple as a bad cable end.


if not...


Get your meter and start checkin.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 09:41 AM
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Almost sounds like one of the 3 wires came off of the terminals on the back of the key switch...I have had it happen on those...I locktite em now...
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micahanjello View Post
Has anybody had issues in the past with the internals of a three position off , run, lights ignition where something inside would cause a no power to the run, light position?

.
Absolutely
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 11:57 AM
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Thanks for the input I am getting ready to head over to do some diagnostics on my bike.

Scary I definitely will start with your reccomendations on how to proceed.

Clspht your advice is spot on. One year ago I had the same problem and my current switch I red loctited them.

Good possibility the soldering at the terminal broke.

Anyway I will post results this afternoon and let you know the outcome and hopefully get back to the timing issues.

Clspht your advice on setting the timing in the oem/voes mode.

I just want to make sure I am clear on proceeeding.

1) Set @ oem/voes and kick start mode.

2)Set trim pot @ max advance.

3)Set flywheels @ T:F on front cylinder compression precisely.

4) Turn module until light goes out precisely and lock her down this would be considered static timing correct?
I check it with a dial back light and all should be good.

5) What should my plugs be gapped @? Currently @ .040

If done correctly I should be spot on @ 30 degrees full advance?

After this I owe you all a thank you.
Like I said before Scary as well as Clspht if you happen to be in my strip of the pacific coast your always welcome in my home.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Good possibility the soldering at the terminal broke

Ok.


With that info....That's where I would start. The solder makes the connection brittle and vibration will cause them to break.


If you use heat shrink...it can hold the wire in place and make it look like it's fine.



Thank you for the invite!!!!!!
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:21 PM
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FWIW

I had to ride 30 miles to get home, once

With my left hand holding the key - between the indents - in the ignition switch

It was like balancing a ball on the edge of a ruler

The key would want to fall into one of the indents - and the motor would die (@50 mph)

Then it would fire up again (W/ open throttle) - when I'd find the midway position with the key again

30 miles, with it dieing and starting again - every 30 seconds or so

It's a wonder I didn't get whiplash. LOL





But I wasn't LOL'ing at the time
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micahanjello View Post
Thanks for the input I am getting ready to head over to do some diagnostics on my bike.

Scary I definitely will start with your reccomendations on how to proceed.

Clspht your advice is spot on. One year ago I had the same problem and my current switch I red loctited them.

Good possibility the soldering at the terminal broke.

Anyway I will post results this afternoon and let you know the outcome and hopefully get back to the timing issues.

Clspht your advice on setting the timing in the oem/voes mode.

I just want to make sure I am clear on proceeeding.

1) Set @ oem/voes and kick start mode.

2)Set trim pot @ max advance.

3)Set flywheels @ T:F on front cylinder compression precisely.

4) Turn module until light goes out precisely and lock her down this would be considered static timing correct?
I check it with a dial back light and all should be good.

5) What should my plugs be gapped @? Currently @ .040

If done correctly I should be spot on @ 30 degrees full advance?

After this I owe you all a thank you.
Like I said before Scary as well as Clspht if you happen to be in my strip of the pacific coast your always welcome in my home.
Everything is good except #2...Put the trimpot on MIN...MIN will put you at 30...If you went MAX, you would be up around 35/36
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
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Everything is good except #2...Put the trimpot on MIN...MIN will put you at 30...If you went MAX, you would be up around 35/36
Min will put you at 26
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:43 PM
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Yup...Just realized we switched motors...We started talking about a 127 and now we're on a 113....Yup...set the trimpot to MAX
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:47 PM
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Chip, I have a problem telling him this method.

He's using the dual fire hi4.

Maybe the cures and advance are the same....but maybe they're not.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2009, 12:58 PM
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I didnt see that...I thought we were talking about a single fire...Crane website is gone so I cant find the instructions for the dual fire...Not sure why the curves would be different but I dont want him to take a chance until he finds out what the total timing would be.
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