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11-12-2008, 06:34 AM
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Would this unit work to keep the wiring simple?
Centech AP-1 - http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml
Any thoughts as to using this to wire a bike? Obviously there's no "harness" with it, and the wires would still need to be run, but would this unit do the job?
Thanks!
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11-12-2008, 06:51 AM
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Dont really see how the unit makes it any more simple or reliable than 2 or 3 basic circuit breakers...Personaly, I stay away from anything with a circuit board on a custom...
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11-12-2008, 07:03 AM
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It is just a fuse block. OK if you want a central fuse location but the bike would have to be pretty well loaded to need that much fusing. You will still have a main breaker somewhere and relay (relays if you need all that fusing). There is nothing wrong with circuit boards on a bike as long as the conductors can actually handle the fuse amperage.
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11-12-2008, 09:50 AM
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So basically, instead of using that fuse block, I'd be able to go to Radio Shack, get a few spools of different color wire (in the necessary gauges), a few inline fuses, and something to attach/mount the fuses to, and I should be good to go?
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11-12-2008, 09:53 AM
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Use circuit breakers, not fuses.
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11-12-2008, 09:55 AM
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Looks pretty cool, I made my own....
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11-12-2008, 10:04 AM
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i see a lot of these kind of posts and i don't understand why anyone uses fuses these days. there are a few good solid-state harness boxes on the market. on my bike, i run a little WirePlus module that does everything and protects everything except for the turn signals and i feed it with a single breaker. The harness/controller hides nicely under the tank in my case, all of the wire run in clean looms from there. Solid-state built-in breakers are the way to go... Check these out:
http://www.steelthundercc.com/wire_harness_kits.html
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11-12-2008, 10:14 AM
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Is it common to include a quick-disconnect plug to separate the front wiring from the rear wiring in case some of the wiring needs to be replaced, so that you wouldn't need to pull all the wiring out just to get to one accessory?
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11-12-2008, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rastoy
Use circuit breakers, not fuses.
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I actually meant to say inline breakers......Those ARE available at a place like Radio Shack, correct?
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11-12-2008, 10:20 AM
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I ran all of the wires through the frame, so I could not use any quick disconnects to split up the harness sections since the quick disconnects would be larger than any holes in the frame that i drilled. however, every component is removable and has a quick disconnect plugs - the main harness controller unit, the ignition module, turn signal module, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeV019
Is it common to include a quick-disconnect plug to separate the front wiring from the rear wiring in case some of the wiring needs to be replaced, so that you wouldn't need to pull all the wiring out just to get to one accessory?
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11-12-2008, 10:30 AM
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So the circut breakers work just like the kind you use in a house only for 12v? Could someone chime in as to how you wire these things up? Someone posted earlier in this thread that they had just one breaker that worked for all of the wiring on his bike... how does that work? Forgive my ignorance but I have never heard of circut breakers for the auto industry...
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11-12-2008, 10:44 AM
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Simple..reliable resetting breaker...
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11-12-2008, 10:55 AM
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Do you manually reset that one or does it do it on its own?
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11-12-2008, 10:58 AM
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Radio shack is not the best source for automotive parts unless the parts are specific to automotive use. An automotive store may be a better source for heavy duty parts (cause the bike is going to beat the snot out of anything less). Look for TXL Poly wire for automotive use.
Circuit breakers are used on circuits that are expected to have occasional overload (not common, but once in a great while). The circuit breakers have a bi-metal spring and a heater wire that takes a few moments to activate and later restores power if everything is OK. Fuses are a flat out indication of something that is not right. When a fuse blows, the fix is not usually to just stick in another fuse without figuring out why the fuse blew in the first place. The whole point of a fuse is to protect the wiring from overheating in an overload (which should not happen on a fused line). Parts are picked according to what they are supposed to do and not on what it appears that they do.
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11-12-2008, 10:58 AM
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The breaker in post 12 resets automatically. The ones that do not reset have a button on them.
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