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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2008, 12:31 AM
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kz1000p chop wiring help

I'm trying to find a simplified wiring diagram for a '82 kz1000p, although I'm gonna put a '97 engine in it but I know that parts the same... I saw a diagram for a 2cyl kawasaki on here but I don't know how well that would relate to my bike sents it has 2 coils instead of a single coil. I'm going to have it as simple as posible, need the battery to charge, engine to run, running lights, headlight, brake light, tach, speedo/tach backlight o yeah and starter... I wish I knew how to convert a kz1000j engine to a kicker... right now I just need to get it going. thanks
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Old 03-22-2008, 01:44 PM
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Get a service manual for your scoot and in the back is the wiring diagram, ebay sells manuals for most, then look in the archieves here and look for chopper wiring diagrams ( there is quite a few ) use the color codes and manual spec's and use what you need and shitcan the rest and adapt the chopper diagram.
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Old 03-22-2008, 10:36 PM
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yeah I got a manual but my eyes go crosseyed and i feel exhausted just looking at the wiring diagram... a flip out page completely covered with lines/wires... ok heres a stupid question... the archives your refering to, are they a seperate section that the regular forum? I've searched old posts already but I havent exactly explored all that much.
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:55 PM
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Is it posible to eliminate the starter relay? how many amps do I want going into the starter? I'm slowly using a stock wiring diagram, my harness and a pair of wire cutters to make a model of a wiring harness than I'll make one from scratch... All the harnesses on here are for twins it seems my bike is a 4cyl with 2 coils... There are somethings on the diagram which doesn't make sense to me like when I trace the start cercuit it has a engine stop switch, starter lockout switch, start button, starter relay, than starter... thing is some of the wires creat a loop in a round about way... as in the starter relay has the two main wires from batt +, to starter. than the other two which when I trace theme through the system ends up at the b/y wire which is a ground... and they all end up one one side of the start button. the way it looks to me when I hit the start button it's suppose to ground the wires going to my coils... doesn't make sense to me... I could make up a harness out of theory but I'm trying to fallow diagrams and shit so I don't fry anything... I've seen quight afew kz1000 choppers out there but I haven't seen one diagram for one. I don't know if dual coil would be much differant than a single, than theres the ignition module, voltage regulator, etc... btw the ignition switchs with the off/run/run with lights does that mean you turn you switch one more over while riding to turn you light cercuit on? maybe I'm thinking to much about this...
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:07 PM
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the other wire from the start button goes to the coils as well... wouldn't the start by turning the engine get the coils going? thanks.
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:24 PM
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Also I was looking at wire assortments on ebay but the only rolls of wire I could find are only rated to 140 or so degrees which seem really low or is that normal? thanks.
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Old 05-01-2008, 05:04 PM
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A lot of the questions you're asking suggest you might be much better off talking a Kawa mech into working something up for you. It'll be a lot cheaper in the long run.

I'm not trying to give offense, it's just my opinion.

1. You need the relay to the starter unless you're installing an ignition switch rated for the amperage.

2. Last time I checked, Kaw 1000's used two coils and each coil fires two cylinders. If I recall correctly, the firing order was 1-2-4-3 and one coil serviced cylinders 1-4 and the other 2-3. This was to allow dwell for the coil to "charge" in-between firing impulses. This isn't unusual in engines that can redline at 8,500 rpm....because there's a lot of sparkin' goin' on. That redline is for the '82 model...it may be significantly higher in a '97 meaning that the significance of two coils is even more important.

3. A Kawasaki isn't anything like a V-Twin. Little things like changing the size of the airbox or the length of the runners to the carburators can change a shitpot of stuff. Didn't the '97 have EFI? If so, you're nowhere near finished "tracing wires".

4. Wires are usually rated "above ambient". I don't know what wires you're looking at but if they're rated "above ambient" then the actual temperature rating of the wires is far higher than 140 degrees.

All this stuff is kind of basic. That's why I'm saying you'd be much better off if you got a pro to help you out. I don't think internet explanations are going to be much help.
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Old 05-01-2008, 06:39 PM
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the '97 engine is also off a cop bike which is carberated, I do know the fire order and the like but the above question is trying to figure out the purpose of some wires which splice into the wires going from the ignition module to the coils... 140 degree thing with the wires, I honestly did'nt know... I always figured ratings were given before trouble happens. I wish I knew the amperage, theres no fuse between the starter and the battery, only the relay. can't afford a pro, hell I can barely afford the parts, any time I talk to a mechanic most of theme are the type to try and keep it stock, I would prefer to find a good information source to answer my question on this bike, but dispite it's history the kz doesn't have very many sites on it... I ask alot of basic questions on things that I pretty much understand but want clearification/confirmation on... what I was getting confused about is how some of the wires run through afew switches and end up looping to it's origenal location pretty much... hell, I'll just check out some differant diagrams and see what I can figure out, there are only 3 differant wires I'm trying to figure out there perpose, than of course trying to figure out ways to eliminate as much as posible. thanks.
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Old 05-01-2008, 08:10 PM
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All I could find online was a service manual for a 2003 KZ1000. It shows an ECU, EFI, Radiator, and all kinds of nasty shit.

Is your manual in electronic format? Depending on how fast you need the information, I might be able to look at it this weekend and see if I can sketch out a simplified diagram.
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Old 05-01-2008, 11:11 PM
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here is the wiring harness I've been working from. I am thinking about changing my ignition switch... I need to replace the one I currently have anyway. and I'm going to have to get a differant start button. I am going to be going with another gauge cluster... speedo/tach with back light so I can read it while riding (of course), according to the diagram I would be using only the four wires going to the tach on this diagram. any help would be appreciated. thanks.



I had to scale this image down to 18% of it's origenal size... don't know if it's going to be legable or not... at full size it's 1.04 MB or so.

Last edited by mekial2222; 05-01-2008 at 11:13 PM..
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Old 05-02-2008, 05:41 AM
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mekial....I've pm'd you with my email address. Email the unshrunk diagram and I'll try to look at it this weekend to see if I can identify what you're trying to describe.

I do need to know a few things, though.

1. I'm assuming you have electronic ignition. Does your system have other inputs for vacuum advance, temperature adjustments, throttle position?

2. Are you just trying to simplify the ignition circuit and you're keeping everything else? I ask because a lot of your inputs go through a junction box that is chock full of not only fuses...but diodes as well. At least one of those diodes is for the starter circuit.

I realize you think you can't afford to work this out with a tech but my thinking is if you can't afford a hundred or so bucks to get a tech to spend an hour and a half and sketch out a wiring diagram for you...it's very possible you can wind up spending more than that fixing what you fry if you make a mistake.

I would look on the metric forums and specifically seek out people who have chopped KZ's. It may not be a practical motorcycle to chop but quite a few people have done it and I can't see none of them being willing to help.
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:50 AM
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I've looked on a kawasaki forum but they seem to be more interested in bolt on mods, not really chops I started a similar thead there but I got 2 responses, one being someone telling me to look at the diagram, and the other being someone else asking for the same thing... no vacuum advance, or temp adjustment... there are the oil idiot light and the neutral indication light but they only go to the dash and they are already cut. No thottle position sensor. I want to remove anything not neccissary for bike operation... I need the regulator/recifier, ignition module, I have another tach/speedo which only has 4 wires going into it, so the only thing on that I'll need is the wires shown on the diagram going to the tach unit and illumination light... no kill switch (I can always add a switch to a wire later if need be), brake lights, head and tail light... I know the light curcuit (illumination, head, tail) can be done easily asside of the main system. I'll keep the starter relay if necissary but would like to get rid of it. I'm going to get another ignition switch at some point because my stock one is pretty jacked up and it's $45 or so for another one, so a after market 2 or 3 post might be purchased. I do plan on retaining the multi plug connectors where the regulator, igniter, etc plug to the harness that way if one goes bad I can just unplug it and plug another one in... thank you.
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Old 05-02-2008, 09:34 AM
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David,
I've marked up the drawing you sent me and highlighted the specific ignition circuit. I've shown you how to bypass the starter lockout and go directly to the starter relay which should make things easier to understand. I've circled the ignitor circuit (which should go to a module you'll find somewhere on your bike) that you'll need to keep. There's no reason you can't relocate this anywhere you want it and splice wires to it but I would give it a shot before modifying it so you'll know if (after you modify it by splicing) if you screwed something up.

If you'll list here everything you want to keep I'll trace the wiring for those items and see if I can make a bunch less wires.

There's not actually a "kill" switch on your bike, but there is a stop/run switch. The circuit you've been sent shows how the power to your coils goes through this switch. I don't recommend running without a switch but any "maintained" of/off switch will work fine for this circuit...it's not pulling any significant current.
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Old 05-02-2008, 12:57 PM
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I've just sent a couple e-mails your way. one shows how I currently have the start button wired, and the other I circled what I would like to keep. there if PDF format because I don't have a image editor that will retain theme as a jpg. thanks
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:54 PM
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I think we should be o.k. now. Again, I'm recommending that as simple as you've described, you shitcan the entire wiring harness and build from scratch.

I also suggest you keep provisions to add things like turn signals and accessories, even if you don't want them now. At some time, you'll learn it's less painful for you when people around you know what your intentions are.

Oh....yeah...and a horn. They're not 'nice to have' they're 'need to have'.

regards,
ray
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