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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2006, 02:24 PM
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Electrical Problems, need help!

A buddy of mine is having problems with his 04 AIH Tx Chopper. He's had the problem from the day it showed up! Major electrical problem. Something is wrong with the circuit breaker, so bad that you have to kick the rear wheel to get the system to turn on. Im assuming something with the circuit breaker mounted just in front of the rear wheel. He replaced the circuit breaker once, and the problem was fixed for about 2 months, then acted right back up again with the same problems. It will not rev over 4000 RPM without cutting out or it will lose all power. Complete stall. Only way to reset power is to reset the key or tap on the circuit board. Somehow at one point in lauched a large enough ammout of electricity back into the battery to melt the posts, but didnt ruin the battery. It has been at the stealer for the past month, and they dont have any idea what could be going on. Its riding season, and he's getting impatient! Any help you guys can give would be awesome! Thanks a bunch!
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Old 04-14-2006, 02:59 PM
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if you can fix the problem by tapping the circuit board, check for a bad ground.

Circuit boards can be grounded at the mounting points. this can be seen by looking at the solder ring around the hole of the mounting screw.

Also, check for any cold joints. That is, on the board, any solder joint that appears to be good, but has really broken its bond. (ya gotta poke around a little).
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Old 04-14-2006, 03:09 PM
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Grounding point (mounting hole).


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Old 04-14-2006, 07:30 PM
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id rewire the whole bike
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Old 04-14-2006, 08:11 PM
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Sure sounds like there is a power supply wire somewhere that is gounding out. Re-wiring might be the best fix if you can't find the bad wire or component.
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Old 04-14-2006, 09:40 PM
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Just trailored a BUDDY home yesterday! Right handle bar harness from neck up melted away! Just aftger he installed new chrome switch cases
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Old 04-15-2006, 07:05 AM
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you have to be careful running wires through the handlebars,sometimes its just smarter running them outside less headache
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:25 AM
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Hopefully that dealer has been in contact with our tech assist guys. Sucks to have the bike sit at the dealer for a month and not be fixed. Not dogging the dealer, I'm sure they are trying their best but if they should have called for help!

First thing I would suspect would be the Power Control Module (called the PUC) mounted to the upper splash shield located right behind the oil tank. The PUC has two removable relays (ignition & start) mounted on it as well as some internal circuitry. I'm thinking this is what you were referring to when you wrote "tap on the circuit board". The ignition relay could be coming loose or was never completely seated from the beginning. Those relays are usually a bitch to get off, but I have seen some of them work loose. Also, the PUC has a six-pin Deutsch connector plugged into it. If the pin that supplies power to the igniton module isn't fully seated or was poorly crimped, it will cause intermittent problems. Both potential problems are easy fixes once you can get to the PUC, which is a bit of a chore.

The problem of the bike cutting out or dying at or around 4000 RPM can also be caused by what I wrote above. There is a lot of vibration on that splash shield and at 4000 RPM it could vibrate enough to "break" igntion contacts. There is a fix available for that, which that dealer should know about.

We went away from the whole PUC "thing" in '05, cause the internal circuitry wasn't as solid state as the vendor claimed...
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Old 07-21-2020, 09:36 AM
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Years after this post but maybe someone can help.

Is this what you have called a PUC. It is in a modified Nemesis kit bike and works but I have had engine dying problems and wondered if anyone has information, circuit diagram, knows what the LEDs mean.
I know main breaker connects to battery and then rectifier and ignition switch.
Another loose wire goes to starter solenoid.
7 wire connector block includes front brake light and horn (as these stopped at same time as middle green LED).
When engine wouldn't start, one of the LEDs was red.
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