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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2006, 02:57 PM
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building an Engine

I thought some of you guys who have never been inside an engine before might find this interesting.

First off, before the “pros” start attacking me, I am in no way trying to imply that I am a professional engine builder. I am not.
I am also not implying that this is the right way to do it. This is only how I do it. Knock on wood, I have never encountered any real problems. Not with bikes anyway. Blew a couple of v8’s in my past because I was too stubborn to see the importance of plastigauges. This is just a thread that I thought would be interesting. Something positive on this forum.

Please excuse the fact that this was built in my Basement living room. LOL

I am not going to give you the specific tolerances. You need to find the specs for your particular engine.
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Old 01-10-2006, 02:58 PM
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This is my first big stroke engine so I had 2 minor issues that I wasn’t sure of that pertain to a big stroke. So a big thank you go out to Gypsy and Don for clearing them up!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had no intention on doing this when I was putting it together so please forgive the lack of some pics.

The first thing I did was to clean the crankshaft assembly. Once that was done, I pressed on the inner Timkken bearing. I then cleaned and blew dried the left case and installed it onto the sprocket shaft. Then I installed the bearing spacer, and pressed the outer bearing on. At this stage I did this dry. No lube. I then cleaned and installed the right side case and torqued to spec. making sure to follow the proper tightening sequence. Next, I preloaded the main bearings by installing my bearing tool and tightening. I checked the crankshaft endplay with a dial indicator. Once I saw that it was fine, I disassembled the cases and pressed the left case off the sprocket shaft.
Next I took some Vaseline and lubed the inner bearing and race. Then placed the left case back over the bearing. Put the bearing spacer in and lubed the outer bearing and race, and pressed it till it bottomed.
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Old 01-10-2006, 02:59 PM
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the next thing I did was to check the breather to make sure it spun freely in the right case. It didn’t. I had to remove a few burrs in the cavity. I cleaned the right case, blew it dry and applied case sealer. Be careful around the inner breather cavity. You don’t want sealer squishing in and blocking any passages. The pinion bearing (Torrington) is pressed into the case and secured with a snap ring. I lubed up the pinion bearing with Vaseline. I then put the right case over the pinion shaft and torqued
to spec.



I then put a small amount of sealer on the outer shell of the main seal and Vaseline on the rubber part. Next I pressed the seal in.
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:00 PM
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Next I assembled the oil pump Applying assembly lube to the feed and return gears and shaft. Then slipped it into the case.
I torqued the pump and put the keyway, oil pump, drive gear and snap ring on.



Next the pinion drive gear and gear spacer.



Next I put on the pinion gear, and pinion nut (use red Loctite on threads and taper) and torqued. I then lubed the cam bearing (Torrington) with Vaseline. I installed the cam thrust washer, cam spacer and cam, making sure all were lubed with assembly lube. When doing this all alignment marks must match up. Cam @6 o’clock, Pinion @ 12 o’clock, Breather to line up with cams second mark @ 8 o’clock, on this engine anyway.



Yes I know my marks are off in this pic. I rotated the crank a little.

It should be noted that Prior to the cam being installed, I checked the cam centerline with the nosecone installed. It was fine. If it wasn’t, I would have had to ream the cam bushing.

The next step was to install the nosecone. And then the lifters and housings. Make sure you use an alignment tool in the hole next to the oil feed on the lifter housing.



I cleaned the cylinders. I use a paper towel soaked in oil.



Next, i set the ring gap. I put the ring in the cylindr and square it by pushing the piston down on it. I check the gap with a feeler gauge and file to spec. I have a ring grinder but a file will work.
I used this to figure out the gap I needed:
bore x .0045 for the top ring
bore x .0035 for the second ring
bore x .015 for the oil rings
Tighened em up just a little.

Next, I put the compression rings on the piston. They do have an order in which they go, so check your specs. Installed the piston, wristpin and clip. The oil rings were next. Because this piston is short, the wrist pin goes through the oil ring groove. So the wrist pin goes in first. Lube everything.
Another thing about the rings is to make sure the gaps are away from each other and not over the wristpin hole. if they are in line you will have a blowby issue and oil contamination. not to mention compression.



Next put the base gasket on, compress the rings and install the cylinder. I use motor oil on the pistons and cylinder wall for this.


I then installed the head gasket and head, torquing in an x pattern. Repeat the process for the next cylinder.

Last edited by Mr Scary; 01-10-2006 at 08:08 PM..
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2006, 03:00 PM
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Next came the rocker gaskets, lower rocker boxes, and rockerarms. All lubed and torqued.



Top rocker cover and o ring. Torque and done.



That’s it for now. I have to do the pushrods and shit like that. I will get around to it eventually.

Now this engine will start, as long as I have proper air/fuel mix, compression, spark and proper timing. It can’t not start if those 4 things are present. The real question is; how long will it stay running. LOL
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:08 PM
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VERY cool man, i recently did the same thing and have been writing it up for a few days...engine looks great

what parts did you change from the original ultima?

cause i see alot
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:17 PM
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Gypsy, I didn't Know you were going to do a thread on this,
Sorry Man!!!!!!
The unassembled long block didnt include a valve train, nose cone, rockerboxes, etc. Which I was glad about. I used jims, S&S, andrews...
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrScary
Gypsy, I didn't Know you were going to do a thread on this,
Sorry Man!!!!!!
The unassembled long block didnt include a valve train, nose cone, rockerboxes, etc. Which I was glad about. I used jims, S&S, andrews...
Yeah! but they will be quite different, you have the luxury of a leather sofa and piped music. . Well done man, that was interesting.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2006, 03:28 PM
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oh no man, i think mine is a little longer.
no worries....more power to ya.

see alot of nice jims stuff there! that is gonna be a nice puppy
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:34 PM
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Oh yea. This is definitely abbreviated. Theres I lot I either forgot or chose to leave out.


One thing I should add,

Once the nose cone was on and tight, I checked the cam freeplay through the lifter bore to make sure it was cool.
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:35 PM
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Killer man just killer. You have inspired me. LOL
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:36 PM
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what kind of pushrods you go with?
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Old 01-10-2006, 03:42 PM
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I have a new set of andrews I have had lyin in the garage I never used.

I forgot to put in the part about ring gap. I'm gonna edit it now.
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by freeway
Yeah! but they will be quite different, you have the luxury of a leather sofa and piped music. . Well done man, that was interesting.
Freeway, I cant stress enough how friggin cool it was to do it like this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:38 PM
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Awesome MrScary! You have inspired me as well.

Gypsy,

Are you going to make a list of "special" tools? Like the ring compresser tool pictured in scary's build.
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