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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2005, 09:20 AM
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2005 big dog transmission problems

here is a history on the situation.

at 250 miles the chain tensioner bolt fell out of the drive and was chewed up by the gears into little tiny pieces while i was driving. i took it to the dealer and they took the primary off and found the peices and replaced the bolt. manufactures defect they said.

at 320 mile the bike started to creep fwd in gear while the clutch was fully depressed. so i took it to the dealer and they said i need to quit slipping the clutch. ok so i said no problem and they adjusted the clutch again.

now at 470 miles and the bike is doing the same thing. creeping fwd in gear with the cultch engaged. called the dealer and they said the same thing. so i adjusted the clutch myself and the problem is fixed for now. however i called the dealer to tell them i have fixed the prob and this time i talked to another person and he said that my clutch is rated for 300hp and that i shouldnt be adjusting the clutch he thinks there is a transmission prob. any ideas??? wolf
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2005, 07:15 AM
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No, tranny's don't make a bike creep forward, that's all clutch and clutch adjustment. You may have a clutch basket "issue" or a throw out bearing problem. Or it could be something as simple as the clutch cable adjuster locknut not being tightened...

Kinda sounds to me like the clutch pushrod locknut wasn't properly tightened when you took it in for the problem at 250 miles and the same mech adjusted your clutch again at the 320 mile repair...see where I'm going with this?

If the locknut isn't properly tightened it will back off and allow the pushrod to slowly "walk" it's way out and then, of course, your clutch will be out of adjustment.

Since you fixed it, I would just ride it and see if it happens again. If it does then you'll need to take a good look at everything related to the clutch; clutch basket bearing, throw-out bearing, ball-n-ramp, proper number of steels and friction discs in right order...etc

What kinda bothers me is: When you took it in for the chain tensioner bolt being "chewed up by the gears", did the shop replace the engine sprocket, primary chain, inner primary bearing and clutch basket? I would have...
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Old 06-19-2005, 07:17 AM
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and another thing...a clutch is meant to be slipped...thats why its a clutch

it is for an ACCURATE TRANSFER OF POWER TO THE TRANS, and is made to be used that way

it is not on or off...it is a fucking CLUTCH

since i stopped workin in dealerships, i will never set foot in another, and after 10 years its still the same i see.....i have had it with the factory bullshit

a CLUTCH is a CLUTCH...it is there for SLIPPING EXCLUSIVELY, end of story
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and the bullshit just keeps on comin, explain "clutch" to bonehead super mechanic, have him call me if he needs a little refresher 540 949 0083(ask for the guy thats gonna tear him new one)

ALTO RED EAGLE...LIFETIME GUARRANTY, NO QUESTIONS ASKED EVER, USE YOUR CLUTCH LIKE A CLUTCH
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:39 AM
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Well said, gyspy. Man, I've been amazed at the level of "expertise" in the dealerships and indy shops in about the past five years. I guess it kinda coincides with the boom in the V-twin industry. Big boom in v-twin sales=more shops (dealerships included) opening their doors=more mechanics needed, and I use the term "mechanic" loosely. Just because you can spin a wrench doesn't mean you are a mechanic. I don't care if you've been factory trained and have a string of patches down your sleeve, either.

I've always told anyone that cared to listen: find yourself a good mechanic in your local area ( not only a good one but one that really cares that his reputation and name are forever attached to the repair he did to your bike) and treat him like a king! Mow his lawn, walk his dog, drop off a six-pack just before closing time at the end of the work week and you will reap the rewards!!! Hint: The really good mechs don't work at the dealerships. There are always exceptions, but for the most part, go to the indy shops in your area. That 'ol graybeard in the back that rode in on a Shovel or old Evo with grease up to his elbows will give you the real answers, not the kid at the parts counter (or service desk) that was working at Walmart 5 years ago...

Sorry watevrpal, guess I kinda highjacked the thread. Had to get that off my chest...lol
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Old 06-19-2005, 03:10 PM
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taking a sissy bar "kit" out of a bag, along with a set of chrome switch housings, does not make a mechanic, and beatin flat rate at that and not having comebacks doesnt either...PDI's and tire changes, along with the stage 1 kit install at 30 minutes doesnt do it.

the deck is stacked against too many good mechanics comin out of that system, most are locked into what they get good at
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Old 06-19-2005, 06:26 PM
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BD knew about the creep problem in March 2004. It was like a keystone cops episode and it sounds like they still don't know what to do. I would call directly to BD.
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Old 06-19-2005, 06:30 PM
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Damn Gypsy jumped on it before I could.

I cannot beleive that was of sperm said to stop slipping the clutch. You should ask him HOW? That is one of the dumbest things I have ever heard. Please make him call Gypsy. I would love to hear his reason.
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:00 PM
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same problem. i adjusted the clutch and the bike rode fine for about 75 miles. then when i came home i parked it in the driveway and a couple of hours later i went to put the bike in the garage and put it in gear and with the clutch depressed the bike drove into the garage. still creeping forward. i am not about to take it to the big dog shop because when i called the owner seemd annoyned that i was calling with the same problem. allthough he said bring it in i am going to find a local shop and pay to have it looked at and fixed. thanks wolf
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:10 PM
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THESE CONSTANT adjustments are a sign that either:

your cable is breaking
your throwout bearing is failing
the ends of your clutch throwout rod is galling

the first is an anomoly

the rod ends and throwout failure are caused by running the adjuster too tight, and having pressure on them all the time

if you are capable, pull that adjuster all the way out
stick a magnet in the hole(bout 3 inches) and pull out the rod

look at both ends of rod and the"pocket" it goes into in the end of the adjuster(divot)

if it looks all ok put it back together and the throw out needs to be checked, the rod failing wont do damage, but the throwout failing will blow your tranny wide apart

let me know what you find...or post it....clutchs dont need this type adjusting
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:36 PM
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The prototype bikes did the same thing when everything was new. There is not a part that is bad just a design. We put four primaries in one bike before we got one that, did not slip, did not creep and did not chew itself up. I was not working on that project but I told the engineer and management that it did not work. Then sat back and watched primaries, transmissions and belts get shreded and they went ahead and put it in production.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:23 AM
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primo belt drives, stop foolin around
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:00 AM
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117 fin - It sounds like you work for BD, or used to. I work for AIH. I guess that makes use sworn enemies! LOL, just kidding.

I forgot that BD uses their "own" inner/outer primary design. Do you guys manufacture those in-house, outsource or what?

I guess if the inner primary isn't designed right, it could put the tranny mainshaft in a bind and then when the clutch/tranny gets hot it could cause things to "creep"...
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Old 06-20-2005, 08:30 PM
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I used to work for big dog, engines/regulatory compliance. I quit one day and they talked me into staying so they could fire me the next. The drivetrain is Baker/BDM. Gypsy is right go Primo. No I did not take the money they offered and it was worth it when I told them I would tell anybody anything that I wanted to.
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Old 06-20-2005, 08:40 PM
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whatre you doin these days?
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Old 06-20-2005, 09:00 PM
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Engineering consulting for small motorcycle companies and engines for marine use.
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