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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2020, 07:15 PM
erlobulldog's Avatar
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Shovelhead Wiring Diagram Needed

So, I’m in need of a simple wiring diagram for my shovel project.

I’m running the following:

-a hella single beam headlight
-Handle bar has a starter button, toggle engine kill switch and brake lever switch
-2 wire barrel ignition key
-Crane Digital ignition
-Regulator
-Starter
-Starter solenoid
-Dyna coil with 2 terminals
-Rear brake light switch
-Tail light

No turning signals, horn or anything else.

Thanks guys for your help
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2020, 11:27 AM
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That's a simple one, that's the way they should be..If no one posts anything in the next couple of days , we can draw one..
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2020, 01:43 PM
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If you google images chopper wiring diagram the,s bunch of them there , all simple and some may
Or may not haveall the elements you need. But you could scavenge from all of them.

My wiring diagrams on all 4 bikes are the most simple. None have starting relay or remote start button. All start from 4 position auto ignition sprung key.

All the wiring disconnects there, including charging wire from the rectifier which I don,t allow to end on the positive battery terminal directly. You never know what those solid states can do- shorten somewhere and drain the battery.

Only rear brake runs with the switch. 3 of the bikes run front and rear brakes from the single foot master anyway.

I started to use tnis switch under the brake pedals instead of sucky hydraulic:
It,s off when plunger in depressed from the rear of the pedal. On once it moves forward from it.

My handlebars have no wires. Foot clutch, manual shift . Only accelerator on the handlebars.
Speedo, horn, turns? Fuck em.

One thing I might consider to do is a kill switch interrupting hot wire to the coil( easy to reach, attached on the left , to the motor mount.

Electric containers for breakers vary and opportunistic. In last bobber- nice box from hardware store
Now it,s hidden behind the trans.

Most important, battery, starter and main electrics+ ignition key I locate close to each other. . Battery cables short and thick.
Here,s other bobber with kidney tool box for electrics
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Old 06-12-2020, 05:50 PM
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Here is one, and this is simple because it leaves out the starter relay"not needed if you have a high amperage ignition switch" or starter button like Stein suggested....This has points, "wires same as a module, and of course an alternator instead of a generator, this doesn't show a fuse box,,"needed"

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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 06-12-2020 at 06:04 PM..
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Old 06-12-2020, 08:57 PM
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WOW! thanks guys! you rock!im going to check these out in detail.

In the meantime, I made a diagram of what mine looks like at the moment...(I feel like its all messed up) so the colored one is how its set up right now which isn't doing me any good...

and a blank one in case anyone has any suggestions.

thanks again guys!



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Old 06-13-2020, 08:42 AM
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Nice drawing. But mistake(s)
From the hip, the rectifier connects to + of the battery, not negative, interrupted by 30 amp main fuse.

Even better : battery> Main fuse 30 amp>Power post of 30 amp ignition key meeting the charging hot rectifier wire. And from the other posts ( ign, acc) the rest of the 15 amp fuses( as many circuits as you like as logical to you as possible.

I,m minimalist, but for convenience have been always using three 15 amp Circuits/ fuses: 1) ign. system+service idiot lights il pressure , neutral( yes I,m sentimental), 2) front accessories( headlight, high beam indicator, could add horn, front turns. 3) rear accessories: tail, brake, +if necessary- rear turns.
Easy to follow bunches of wires and narrow down the problem.
Btw. I have only one hot wire to the headlight. Right in the headlight- high, low off toggle, and indicator. Negative- bike itself.

Also the easiest way to wire ignition is to run the whole ignition wire bunch to the coil, wherever it is. hook it up there with hot wire from ignition in mid post ( meeting power supply from the ignition circuit- thus powering coil and ignition - one wire)and connect correctly front and rear coil negatives( tape the rest of BS- tach, VOES, etc)

I trigger starter solenoid by the 4th post of the ignition key( sprung operation). It,s always located near oil bag, right or left. Easily reachable even in traffic.

Something like that.
Cheers
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113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
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127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech FL 2014/2019 bobber

Last edited by STEINBVG; 06-13-2020 at 09:22 AM..
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:37 PM
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Nice art work, I would leave the relay"since you have the dinky starter button" and make the one correction from the regulator to the battery and you look good..

Harley does not use the breaker between the regulator and the battery, don't know why, " my 88 twin cam did not"


it needs it, if the regulator shorts, you will go up in flames. Don't know why they are using the relay for the headlight..just complicates things..More stuff to go out on the road. I just helped a buddy change his last month.
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1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 06-13-2020 at 04:43 PM..
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Old 06-13-2020, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
Nice art work, I would leave the relay"since you have the dinky starter button" and make the one correction from the regulator to the battery and you look good..

Harley does not use the breaker between the regulator and the battery, don't know why, " my 88 twin cam did not"


it needs it, if the regulator shorts, you will go up in flames. Don't know why they are using the relay for the headlight..just complicates things..More stuff to go out on the road. I just helped a buddy change his last month.

Thanks man! I did the correction to the voltage regulator by adding that breaker in line and will now have it wired up to the positive terminal on the battery

I would like to know how I should wire up the 12V 30A relay though.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2020, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erlobulldog View Post
Thanks man! I did the correction to the voltage regulator by adding that breaker in line and will now have it wired up to the positive terminal on the battery

I would like to know how I should wire up the 12V 30A relay though.
Not sure what you mean, how to wire it,, I would not use the relay, my chopper uses a starter button like yours, and it's fine, the solenoid winding only draws an amp of current, not enough to burn a starter button, and the head light can draw 4 or 5 amps, but you still don't need that relay, not if you use a heavy duty light switch, and a little thicker wire. eliminate the relay, "I thought you were saying that you already
had the relay" If you are starting from scratch , I would do like Stein suggested and use an automotive ignition switch, you can run your ignition, starter, and lights all through that switch, with no relay ,but it wouldn't be on the handle bars..Handle bar button or automotive ignition switch, it would all wire up like the diagram I posted.

If you want to keep the relay then your diagram is correct.
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1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 06-13-2020 at 07:44 PM..
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:42 AM
erlobulldog's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
Not sure what you mean, how to wire it,, I would not use the relay, my chopper uses a starter button like yours, and it's fine, the solenoid winding only draws an amp of current, not enough to burn a starter button, and the head light can draw 4 or 5 amps, but you still don't need that relay, not if you use a heavy duty light switch, and a little thicker wire. eliminate the relay, "I thought you were saying that you already
had the relay" If you are starting from scratch , I would do like Stein suggested and use an automotive ignition switch, you can run your ignition, starter, and lights all through that switch, with no relay ,but it wouldn't be on the handle bars..Handle bar button or automotive ignition switch, it would all wire up like the diagram I posted.

If you want to keep the relay then your diagram is correct.
Yeah, itís already on there. Back in 2000 I had the bike worked on by a local mechanic and although he did a great job, he really loved that wire loom and excess wire.
FF to today, and Iíve cleaned up the wiring, soldered everything nicely and eliminated as much un-necessary wiring as a could.
But my inner dumbass forgot to take pictures of the wiring before I disconnected the wires and now Iím only relying on memory to put everything back together. Ugh...

I will install the automotive switch in the future when I upgrade the brake master cylinder to one without the OM button box housing.
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Last edited by erlobulldog; 06-14-2020 at 06:55 AM..
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2020, 03:46 PM
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I know what you mean, If you don't draw a diagram, "wire colors" then it can be time consuming tracing every thing with your ohm meter..
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Old 06-14-2020, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
Here is one, and this is simple because it leaves out the starter relay"not needed if you have a high amperage ignition switch" or starter button like Stein suggested....This has points, "wires same as a module, and of course an alternator instead of a generator, this doesn't show a fuse box,,"needed"

There,s one thing in this diagram I disagree with, the regulator I would connect to the other post of the 30 amp main fuse- then the battery is protected. The rest of the shit has fheir own 15 amp breakers to protect themselves.

Again even better imho , I would connect the regulator after auto ignition key. So there,s no permanent connection to the battery.
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. CAN'T SEE SHIT.
113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 1998/2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech FL 2014/2019 bobber
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2020, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEINBVG View Post
There,s one thing in this diagram I disagree with, the regulator I would connect to the other post of the 30 amp main fuse- then the battery is protected. The rest of the shit has fheir own 15 amp breakers to protect themselves.

Again even better imho , I would connect the regulator after auto ignition key. So there,s no permanent connection to the battery.
Thanks man! I was thinking the same about that breaker Iíll move that regulator wire to the top of the breaker where it connects to the ignition switch then.

Quick question though, this diagram shows a 3 wire ignition switch. How would I wire it on my 2 wire ignition switch?
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erlobulldog View Post
Thanks man! I was thinking the same about that breaker Iíll move that regulator wire to the top of the breaker where it connects to the ignition switch then.

Quick question though, this diagram shows a 3 wire ignition switch. How would I wire it on my 2 wire ignition switch?
The hot comes from the battery via 30 main fuse. And the other wire leaves to the distribution split to other circuits. Auto switch simply separates ignition and accessories circuits in different positions, you can run them separately testing the lights etc. also a cool thing about the auto ke :when you crank, all the other circuits are killed saving juice.( see my lights go out in the video- that, s not from the lack of power lol .
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VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. CAN'T SEE SHIT.
113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 1998/2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech FL 2014/2019 bobber
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Old 06-14-2020, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEINBVG View Post
The hot comes from the battery via 30 main fuse. And the other wire leaves to the distribution split to other circuits. Auto switch simply separates ignition and accessories circuits in different positions, you can run them separately testing the lights etc. also a cool thing about the auto ke :when you crank, all the other circuits are killed saving juice.( see my lights go out in the video- that, s not from the lack of power lol .
Gotcha!
So this is basically the relay, where do I hook up the ignition key to? And where do I hook up the starter button to?

Iím guessing that the bottom ď30Ē terminal goes to the 12V constant from the starter selenoid. Where does the small terminal of the starter selenoid connect to on the relay then? The top ď87Ē terminal of the relay switch?

Thanks for all the help man! I truly appreciate it.

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