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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2020, 04:36 AM
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So finally got her fired up. Moved the battery closer but that still didn’t work. Had to hook up a car battery with jumper cables to get her started. The battery I have was fully charged and over 500 cranking amps. Any other thoughts. It wont start without the additional battery hooked up.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2020, 06:33 AM
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I went through all that on my 127. Does the engine spin over if you have the plugs out, or hold the compression releases down? Holding the releases down" don't let them pop up" might be the only way you can crank the bike until it loosens up or get a stronger starter..Is you starter black inside? they get that way from turning over slowly.... if so it might be weak...mine was..I cleaned it twice and then replaced it, no sense in getting stranded.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2020, 05:38 PM
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The starters brand new. 2.0. Spins over freely with the plugs out.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2020, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartacus View Post
The starters brand new. 2.0. Spins over freely with the plugs out.
How easily it starts with car battery? Any hesitation? Binding?
is your timing correct? Not too advanced?
Did you set to fire on 2-3d revolution?
firing on the first kicks out compression release too soon. That,s why Shovel and I modified our compression releases. At least holding them down till it fires might be an answer .

Some people measure amperage during the starting effort. There,s an induction Ampermeter , like a loop around the cables.

Starting current should not be above 200 amp. Too much may mean increased electric or mechanical resistance.
You would have to troubleshoot each component.

I remember my s&s 113 with 11:1 compression was a very hard starter. I broke a couple.
Till I machined in the releases and used better cables and more powerful batteries.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2020, 09:02 PM
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If it spins over freely with the plugs out, then try holding the releases down, here is a pic of my rear compression release, using a piece of coat hanger wire with rubber coating on it to hold it down, it's the only way mine will crank..

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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 05:25 AM
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Stein and Shovel

It stars fairly easy with the additional battery. No hesitation. The timing is all set. I may just have to hold my releases down to start it.
What size battery cables are you guys using?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 09:36 AM
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2 gauge is plenty for that length, it takes about 15 feet to get a 2% drop at 12v. so a couple of feet at 2 gauge..fine
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 12:35 PM
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I just want to add support for what Steinbvg and Shovel are saying.
It is my Corvette so maybe apples and oranges but I don't think so -
Corvettes are notorious for battery drain during down time because the system
has some constant current draw. I had a dead Batt twice so I was ready to
get a new battery cause mine was a smaller one than usual stock . I had the hi-amp
trickle charge on for couple of days with no luck. I followed the hack that others talked
about and cut the tin POS clamp off and replaced with a nice KIcker clamp.
Now it can sit for 2 -3 weeks and crank over like new. it really had a big effect.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 12:40 PM
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Is 2 ga enough for 4 ft
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopperfugger View Post
I just want to add support for what Steinbvg and Shovel are saying.
It is my Corvette so maybe apples and oranges but I don't think so -
Corvettes are notorious for battery drain during down time because the system
has some constant current draw. I had a dead Batt twice so I was ready to
get a new battery cause mine was a smaller one than usual stock . I had the hi-amp
trickle charge on for couple of days with no luck. I followed the hack that others talked
about and cut the tin POS clamp off and replaced with a nice KIcker clamp.
Now it can sit for 2 -3 weeks and crank over like new. it really had a big effect.
Not sure here, are you saying that your Corvette has a constant current draw due to
clocks and other appliances that are constantly on? and are you referring to your battery post connection when you say tin positive clamps? are they corroding and not getting a good connection? Don't quite understand what you are saying but would like to understand the concept..what was pulling the battery down and how would just changing a clamp stop it?
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Last edited by Shovel52; 05-17-2020 at 04:05 PM..
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2020, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartacus View Post
Is 2 ga enough for 4 ft
No. 2 is plenty thick for 4 feet..Why don't you get your bride to hold down your rear compression release, while you hold down the front and see if the bike cranks easily?
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Last edited by Shovel52; 05-17-2020 at 04:14 PM..
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2020, 06:09 AM
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Shovel -
Basic answer = yes.

It's a known problem with C6 Corvette - it is the computer system.
They used a harness for a positive cable not just a simple cable and
used a cammed battery post clamp which works OK without corrosion
wear. You can search it on Corvette Forum. The clamp loses it's grip.
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