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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2020, 02:35 PM
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Bleeding brakes in dna rear end. Need help

so Iím trying to bled the brakes in my DNA rear end. I took off both calipers. the left side caliper because when mounted the bleeder sits at the bottom ( not a great design ). I also took them both off because I heard that the pistons on the calipers tend to go in a little when you let up on the pedal so I used a piece of 1/8 thick metal in between the pads when bleeding. I canít seem to keep a hard pedal. If I pump it up fast itíll get hard and stay but was I let off the pedal I lose it. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-29-2020, 07:24 PM
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Block off the brake light switch or bleed fluid at the switch, I’ve seen them hold air and cause a mushy pedal.
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Old 03-31-2020, 04:50 AM
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Thanks captain. I’ll give that a shot
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:27 PM
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I've been told that if you tie your brake lever/pedal up so there is pressure in the system over night that it helps get the micro bubbles out, as they rise to the top and out of the system cos the piston is open...

It kinda makes sence but I've never tried it so not 100% sure it works
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Old 03-31-2020, 03:22 PM
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Thanks Ed. I’ll give that a shot also
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:29 PM
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This is what I miss. All the good advice from the members..

OP, I will add just one thing that I learned from 2 days of hell in my shop. Fresh brake fluid was the trick for me.

Good luck sir....
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Old 04-01-2020, 10:47 AM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJp-VOps5Mc

1. One move nipple opening. Where you pump like if you're at a farm with a water well with the handle, and just keep pumping with an open line. When I installed that hose and bleed it once, I had a pedal. There was no change so I wasted the taper on that nipple... meaning I didn't, but that open/close shit is for squids. Same goes for the titty sucking tools. It's not rocket science.

2. Gravity feed. Just like you tried. Better you hang the nipple vertical with hose extended. Had an aprilia with a rear caliper that had to be removed to move those trapped bubbles. I hung it so the nipple was at the highest point. I banged on the hose every few hours, meaning, you walked the bubbles up the hose. That did the trick. You'll have a clear hose on the nipple end, break the nipple loose and push the pedal down, watching the bubbles leave first with solid fluid at the end and close the nipple*.

3. Same gravity setup, but this time, zip-tie the pedal or jam a hammer handle in between it, barbell weight, something to load the master and walk away from it. By the lever still loaded, you break the nipple this way having the fluid loaded, slowly open the nipple and watch the bubble change to liquid.

4. Hook the whole brake system up like normal, zip the brake pedal like Ed mentioned, we use this for racing lines, where we bleed the lines and zip the lever overnight. Yes it works. Might have to do it a few times. Quality race masters are no problem. I just bled a friend's dirt bike; it was mush; and then had to zip it. Lever came back. Grabbed it again the next day or so, saw it was still mushy and zipped it again. Finally came back to normal. So it might take a few 'overnight' tries.

5. Vid shows to tackle the banjo bolt like Captain mentions. Again, zip it and banjo it, or hand pump it up so it feels like a hard pedal, hold and break the banjo bolt at the master. Trick is to open slow and close before the pedal bottoms out.
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Old 04-01-2020, 04:10 PM
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I had the same problem with front brake.
Followed all the different things - even 'pump it a 100 times'

Went to Harbor Freight - got a power bleeder - hooked it up
to air compressor - done deal - 5 minutes.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:53 PM
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I was going to mention the hand vacuum pump also..it was the only thing that worked when we were installing an hydraulic clutch on my buddies Victory..
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Old 04-03-2020, 12:04 PM
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I used 50-100 cc syringe and pushed the fluid in reverse- through a slightly open nipple on a caliper and it comes into the master. Once bubbling stops- you pretty much done. If the level is too high, you can scoop it with that syringe and reuse it again into the nipple . If the system is complicated like mine- 1 master, 3 calipers - I would do it from each nipple.

The other way- a long thin translucent tube connected from a nipple to the reservoir. Keep pumping and seeing the fluid move in the circle till it clears all the bubbles. Can do with another nipple too. Done.
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Old 04-04-2020, 07:40 PM
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Good idea, never heard of that one but can see how it would dis lodge air, cheap too..
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Old 04-05-2020, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shovel52 View Post
Good idea, never heard of that one but can see how it would dis lodge air, cheap too..
Yah, I had a several foot long one going from the rear brake of my truck to the front, where the master is. The fluid and air just traveled by my window as I was sitting in and kept pushing the brake pedal. Once it was clear- I went back, tightened the nipple- done.
I think It,s a nylon line , you know those tough ones , I believe 1/4Ē , has to be tight on the nipple. Bought in a hardware store like 12 Ď.

Takes one person.
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Old 04-05-2020, 07:19 PM
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I want to be clear that I am not talking about the hand vacuum
pump - I have 2 of those and they didn't cut it.
I am talking POWER bleeder. It is cheap at Harbor Freight/
Big difference.
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