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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2017, 06:37 PM
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Try to ohm all those wires around the high beam switch to ground to see if maybe something melted to ground....then do the same from wire to wire...it seems that it would have to be a fairly large wire not to go up in smoke, but just trip a breaker...

Question...you say when you started the bike , the positive battery cable...the one that hooks to the battery, got hot....how about if you don't crank the bike? does it still get hot just by turning the switch on?

Your charging wire from the regulator goes to the battery, this is not the one getting hot is it? this one is pulling 20 amps by itself .......it's the other larger cable thats getting hot? the one that goes to the starter..?


Here is one other trouble shooting tip.....Your ignition switch test has proven that you have a bad or dirty switch....I would keep my jumpers in place while troubleshooting other areas.to guarantee success.
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 09-12-2017 at 07:32 PM..
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2017, 01:37 PM
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OK, so today I got the bike running, and it ran for a couple of minutes then died and no lights, I removed all the self re-setting circuit breakers (they are on the belt drive) and put in hard-wires, put the key in the ignition and turned it on like normal, the lights would only come on and t would only start if the jumper wire from the battery was connected to the middle wire of the ignition switch (the power in supply) as soon as I unhooked the jumper cable, everything dies, All while doing this I had the headlight unhooked. if I re-connected the jumper cable everything comes back on, spark, ignition, lights. etc. SO this rules to the circuit breakers. is there anything down by the started that could be tripping the wire going into the ignition? Edited to add.....there is definitely a draw somewhere because I haven't touched the bike since last week and it didn't have enough juice to crank, after a short charge is was back to 100%
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Last edited by Slutty22; 09-21-2017 at 01:44 PM..
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2017, 07:21 PM
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The hot wire to the ignition switch usually comes straight off of the starter, they do that to clean up wires coming off of the battery..they then go to the breaker and then to the ignition switch...
if you are sure that wire is bad and it's not the ignition switch itself, i would disconnect the starter cable at the starter and see if relieves the draw down..sounds like something is wrong right there..you said before that the big wire to the battery was getting hot..sounds like the starter..keep in mind that the voltage regulator hooks directly to the battery too, you could have
shorted diodes in the regulator also..disconnect that that wire from the battery and see if it relieves the short..a milliamp meter is useful for that....it sounds like the draw is pulling your battery down too low and killing the bike...
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
1975 Harley Davidson Shovel head Chopper
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Last edited by Shovel52; 09-21-2017 at 07:34 PM..
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2017, 05:11 AM
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check/add an additional ground. Had to do that with my 127.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2017, 07:54 AM
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To me the electric system is like a tree. It,s important to have right gauge wires for diffrent things. I prefer 1 level overkill: the main ( and only) wire from the (+) battery terminal to the main 30 breaker,s copper stud - 10ga(typically12). Then from the main fuse to the power stud of ignition switch- also 10( or12). Now from the ignition switch ( mine is 30 amp car type in order to use the cranking function without the relay) you branch out 2-4 circuits with 15 amp fuse in each. In my case from Ign.post- 12(or 14) wire goes to the ign. fuse and then 16ga( 18) - to 1)coil, 2) ign module3) idiot instrument lights.
To the the ACC stud -using 12ga(14)wire I connect the following 15 amp circuits : "front" which includes headlight +/- horn and "Rear"- includes Tail light and brake. The final wire I typically use 16ga( although for tiny loads and for cosmetics one can use 18 and 22 )
This way - easy to isolate an issue and to unhook the culprit circuit. There could be variations in the logic, but the point is clear.

By the way, In my schematics as opposite to Harley's, the charging wire( 10 or 12 ga I believe)
from the rectifier/ voltage regulator wire I connect to the Ign post of ignition switch instead of directly to battery or even main fuse, thus, when the key is off- no chance of any drainage if the regulator shorts. The charging current travels through ign switch, main fuse( both30 amp and are capable of handling it) to the battery.
My battery cables are huge, not even 1or 2 ga, but 1/0 or 2/0 , size of my finger- ensures no loss of starting current.
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VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2017, 09:09 PM
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Thanks man....I appreciate your help. I tore into it today.....I have the wire loom pulled to where it inserts to the frame....trying to pull the oil tank...as the starter is underneath it. So I can track where everything is going and trace from there. It seems to me that everything on my bike is wired in series. Not sure yet though....this tank is a bitch to get out. In all honesty....the only things running electrics on this bike is head/tail lights, starter/ignition and the charging/stator system and that's it.....shouldn't be too hard to figure once I can visualize everything.....I might re wire things after reading above....it seems I might be under guaged. Gotta get this friken tank out first
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2017, 04:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slutty22 View Post
Thanks man....I appreciate your help. I tore into it today.....I have the wire loom pulled to where it inserts to the frame....trying to pull the oil tank...as the starter is underneath it. So I can track where everything is going and trace from there. It seems to me that everything on my bike is wired in series. Not sure yet though....this tank is a bitch to get out. In all honesty....the only things running electrics on this bike is head/tail lights, starter/ignition and the charging/stator system and that's it.....shouldn't be too hard to figure once I can visualize everything.....I might re wire things after reading above....it seems I might be under guaged. Gotta get this friken tank out first
Sounds good. You want an electric system to be easily accessible. Not cramped up!
I don't like running wires in the frame- one can do pretty clear installation without needing to do it[ easy to strip wires while pulling them through- who knows what's inside? ]
I do like the standard Harley resetting fuses with bolt on hook ups. And if the schematics is clear and logical- when there's a short and you hear the fuse click and unclick and it's easy to trace the short.

On this particular bike i have the electric box made of an early Harley bean shaped tool Box] that has all my electrics and easily accessible and not cramped together[ like the house electric panel]
Also, all the remote- peripheral wires i have black[ with tiny colored wire ties at the ends to mark them. Within the electric box i use colored wires.

Good luck, Keep posted
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber

Last edited by STEINBVG; 09-26-2017 at 04:48 AM..
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2017, 09:24 AM
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So stoked....im about 95% sure I've found the problem....as I suspected...that middle wire to the ignition has a break in it. Under several layers of heat shrink and electrical tape. Lol
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2017, 05:55 PM
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Wiring is a real challenge..it takes a lot of patience and time...congrats on not giving up. most people would..
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2004 Ultima 127 Chopper
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 03:17 PM
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Thanks man....im cheap, so most repairs come by my own hand or not at all
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2017, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slutty22 View Post
Thanks man....im cheap, so most repairs come by my own hand or not at all
To repair yourself-Nothing to do with being cheap.
But as far as electrics.
It is tough to repair not a standard custom electric harness on a chopper done by somebody else. At times it,a easier to re- wire the god damned bike from the scratch.
__________________
VITALY.
SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
127"Ultima, Chassis Design rigid 2013 bobber
120"Ultima, Kraft Tech rigid 2014 bobber

Last edited by STEINBVG; 09-27-2017 at 07:36 PM..
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