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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2014, 03:38 PM
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Clutch is gone!

I have an ultima 127 with bdl 3" open primary. was riding down the road and down shifted, and bang no clutch. Luckly I was half block from the house. When I opened the clutch up it was full of powder, yes it is worn out. My question, I have been riding bikes since 1965 and have never had one go out all of a sudden , they always
give slippage, and then again I have always been able to shim the springs or sand the disks and get it to run a while longer. My clutch is not the round dog type, each plate has 38 notches, nice and quiet and no problems. I added another steel plate in the back and still nothing, sanded and nothing. This clutch does not allow you to adjust the springs. the bolts bottom out. Maybe the fiber is not worn flat?? I am ordering new plates, but I hate when i can't figure something out. Shouldn't the extra steel plate have given enough pressure to give some grab? Come on some of you veterans!
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:53 PM
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When you say that you have no clutch do you mean that the bike won't move(slipping) or it won't shift(not dis-engaging)? How does the clutch lever feel?
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:16 PM
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It is slipping, and the clutch feels normal.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:35 PM
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If the friction material is wiped out the pressure added by the extra plate really doesn't create any more surface area for the clutch to grab. If you want more clamping pressure you can get stronger springs, use more springs, or use shorter spacers but you'll still need the friction material in tact to get proper power transfer. Don't forget to make sure that everything is mechanically sound and that the hub, basket haven't moved(bad bearing, loose mainshaft nut), and pushrod/throw out bearing haven't failed creating clutch slippage since this happened all at once.
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:09 PM
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The pushrod throwout bearing is something that struck ,me unless I am overlooking something.
The clutch adjustment bolt seems to adjust the clutch lever properly. I am not real familiar with this, is it possible the pushrod could be pushing farther than normal even though the clutch still seems to adjust properly? and pressure plate still moves outward? to check the throwout bearing , you would have to remove the trans. cover on the other side of the bike, correct, and it has oil. I believe it is an ultima trans, no markings that I can see. I could swear I heard a feint grinding noise a while before it went
out, I just thought it was clutch plates sticking from all the powder.

Last edited by Shovel52; 11-27-2014 at 05:12 PM..
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:21 PM
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Thinking about it , the clutch should be ingauged if the adjustment bolt is screwed out and not seated, against the pushrod , but it's not, it's like the bike is in neutral almost. Everything else you mentioned
seems to be ok. It has to be the friction material gone, hopefully the noise was loose plates.

Last edited by Shovel52; 11-27-2014 at 05:30 PM..
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Old 12-04-2014, 06:19 PM
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Well, apon more examination, It's not the clutch at all. If i had turned the transmission shaft a little harder when I had the clutch out I would have seen that the Mag. wheel is stripped out. I guess thats what you have to put up with when you ride a monster. Yeah!
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Old 12-04-2014, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shovel52 View Post
Well, apon more examination, It's not the clutch at all. If i had turned the transmission shaft a little harder when I had the clutch out I would have seen that the Mag. wheel is stripped out. I guess thats what you have to put up with when you ride a monster. Yeah!
You mean the clutch basket,s inner hub stripped the splines?
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:45 PM
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No, rear wheel inside stripped out. the rear pulley was turning with out the wheel. I couldn't see it, who would have thought? Remember the old jap bikes that have the rubber dampeners in the rear wheel that actually grab the wheel. This very expensive mag wheel
assembles in three parts and has nothing but a couple of bolts that stick into a hole in the center wheel , pee poor design. What they are doing is sacrificing practicality for looks. the axle is complicated also with bolts that screw into each end and has a plate to cover it , same thing, for looks. I was able to replace the sheared off bolts though. On the road again!
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:53 PM
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Had to remove the wheel again, there was a little sideways slack in it. Evidently it took out too much metal . This is a 3 piece wheel setup. I had to tie it together with rope, then duct tape the caliper to the frame to get it off. The wheel consists of 3 sections. the center wheel is solid aluminum about one inch, with 10 holes. Each hub has 5 studs that fit into the holes. Whoever assembled the wheel did not apply any lock tite and the studs worked themselves back to the point to where they just sheared off. Left a 1/8 gouge in the surface of the center
wheel. I filled in the gouge with JB water weld, that stuff is as hard as steel, then I mounted
a piece of carbide sandpaper on the hub and worked it down by hand, until perfectly flat, then made a couple of shims out of sheet metal to take up the slack from the missing metal. Nice tight fit. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. I'ts going to be 70 degrees here in Shreveport this weekend, gonna go for a putt, yeee ..ha impress all the neighbors!



whoops! how did that get in there?


Last edited by Shovel52; 12-11-2014 at 07:11 PM..
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