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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2013, 12:32 AM
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Having a problem mounting mirrors

I bought a set of la chopper bars with hand controls off of e-bay. I've got a set of brand new mirrors I'm trying to mount on bars. The hand controls I believe are from custom chrome, they have holes running thru them next to the pivot point holes where the hand control levers attach. I'm sure they are for mirrors, they don't have any threads in them . They are about 1 3/4" deep. The mirrors come with a standard set of 8mm and 10mm x 2" threaded rods one end threads into the mirrors which leaves about an 1 1/2" threaded rod, now the 8 mm fits loosely in the hole but doesn't reach all the way thru and the 10mm is just a hair to big for the hole and acts like it would work if you used a tap to thread the hole. the guy that sold me the bars said I am suppose to run a bar or threaded rod long enough to go all the thru and put a decorative washer and nut on it On the far end. So I need some input, what's the solution? Am I just being really stupid, can I tap this hole out and then it will be threaded and really strong or do I find longer threaded rod and use a nut and washer? I just think it will be loose and spin freely with just a nut holding it. HELP? Thanks. I hope all that wasn't to confusing. I would post pictures but I'm not sure how.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:10 AM
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Pictures please
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:51 AM
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Sometimes there is... but typically there is not a "supposed to" or standardized way to make different brand aftermarket parts work together.
To me thats half the fun of building a bike. It would be damn booring if this shit was all..."put peg A into slot B & tighten bolt"... know what I mean?
Don't be afraid to do some "post manufacturer manufacturing"...
Go ahead & thread that bitch.... but I would first double check that the hole is indeed the right size.
Online you can find a chart that gives the proper pre-tap hole size for any given thread configuration...
Here's one: Tap Drill Chart ...there is a bunch of them....
Then break out the micrometer and see what you're dealing with. Don't be afraid to drill that hole out a little more if it's too tight.... on a hole like that I'm sure you've got plenty of room to go a few thousanths bigger & not do any damage to the controls.
Oh... & when you tap that bitch.... use plenty o lubricaton!
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:15 AM
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I'll bet you'll find that mounting hole for a 3/8 bolt.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:36 AM
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Trying to post pictures from an I pad, can anybody help?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:56 AM
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I just use chrome cap screws and washers and mount from the bottom. You can also get a set screw long enough, or cut a piece of all thread, and use an acorn nut.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:22 AM
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Spent an hour trying to post pictures, can't seem to get it. I think I got them in my gallery anyway. There's a picture of a wideglide front end there also, I was hoping somebody could tell me who makes it? I think it a pro one but not sure.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:14 AM
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:44 PM
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pokergolf420 i think your idea is best if the lever is threaded and is tightened and the mirror is not in the correct position and you have to back off the mirror then it will most likley loosen up, if you drill through the lever nut the top and use a cap nut or as you said an acorn nut it will lock in position where ever that is on the lever, the other way the threads determon where the position of the mirror is at its end you have no control of the adjustment. just my thought
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:57 PM
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I've always used unthreaded perches. If the perch has no threads and the mirror stem is threaded, you just run the screw up thru the bottom and tighten it in whatever position you want. I've used cap screws and the stud/nut method, both work great.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:37 PM
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I think I'm gonna get a piece of all thread and lock it down from the top with a nut and the bottom with a decorative nut and see how that works, I can always go back and tap it out with threads later if that mirror ends up moving around to much. Thanks for all the input
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