Questions before I start my first bobber build..

[102511]

Hi all. Im in the planning stages for my first build. A bobber with a springer. I have a lot of questions that I want to ask before I make mistakes and waste money and time. First a a little about me. Im 22 and I like to build things (guitars and a few 1911s). I work as a helicopter mechanic so I feel I can handle a bike build with some help from you guys. I have a 5X9 shed to work in and I dont plan to fabricate any major parts. I can handle making small brackets and such. I dont weld but there is a shop near me that has good rates. Im in the process of planing and saving money now. I know I wont save any money by building a bike. I have what I think is a realistic schedule of 2-3 years to build the bike. Im in no rush. I want to do this rite. My dad will be helping me. He just doesnt know it yet.

Heres what I want my bike to be:
-Kraft tech 30 degree 0 stretch standard tire frame. kraft tech part number K16051.
-Dna springer with no fender mounts and shock from KC International. Chrome. I want the lower frame tubes to be level with the correct trail so Ill need help calculating that.
-Paughco bobbed rear fender part number 134EB.
-The big/wide front tire look. I hope you know what I mean. When the front and rear tires look the same size. I think I need 16 or 19 inch front and rear tires. but I need to find out what the paughco fender is for first.
-40 spoke rims. Can I run tubeless tires on spoked rims?
-Soft tail/ flh looking large tank. I need more than 3 gallons.
- Classic spring solo seat.
-Evo softail engine from harley davidson. I think its a good price for a core engine. Unless theres something out there I dont know about.
-Closed primary.
-5 or 6 speed trany. If I can I would like to use a kicker. Why you ask? Because Im 22 and I think its cool.
-Im going to be using as many safety features as I can. Horn, turn signals, loud pipes.
-I want a good riding bike that I can be on for some time without hurting my back. I like forward controls with the bars in easy reach. None of this hunched folded in half stuff. I agree it may look cool but I want to commute on this thing. Im 6'2" by the way.
-Foot shift.

Thats all I can think of now. I want to order the frame next month and have a roller assembled in 5 months. My biggest problem is getting the trail and tire size figured out. Ill try to post a picture of the big tire thing I was talking about. Thanks for any help.

[102511]

This Is what I mean by Big front tire. I dont know who built it. If you know tell me so I can give credit. This is the link to the frame Im going to use. Is KC Int. a good company to order from? They have the best price on this frame and dna front ends that Ive found. I want to get my frame, springer, and rims from them to save on shipping.
http://kcint.zoovy.com/product/50-27032-05

[JoeyD]

looks like you've got a well thought out and sound plan there. Personally I'd nix the DNA for a better, albeit more expensive, springer. Just my opinion. The K/T is a great frame as is your motor choice.
Enjoy the process of building with your dad. I've done the same.

[MAKO6]

First, congrats on your decision to do one yourself, second, Bravo for having a solid plan and looking at your build from a practical perspective (young guys don't often do that). Most all of your design intents appear to be well thought out, eg. realistic rake, reliable motor choice, closed primary, big gas tank, reasonable timeline, etc... Post plenty of pictures and ask plenty of questions here, (you will get plenty of right answers). I would like to speak for most all the members here saying that young guys like you are what this site is all about, sharing information and grooming the new guys to keep this wonderful culture alive and well.

Welcome to the forum..

Mak

[102511]

Thanks guys. I spent about 4 months trying to figure out what I wanted. At first I was just going to get a sportster 48 and call it good. Then I realized how much cash I would sink into new pipes and screaming eagle stuff that It would be easier to build one. Plus Im to fat for a sportster. I did a lot of searching on this forum and google and made my list from that. Also the RI DMV web site. I wanted to make sure I could ride it when its done.

Im set on the dna springer for now. From what Ive heard people like them for what they are. A no frills springer. As long as the quality Is there Ill be happy. If I dont like It I can sell It on ebay and upgrade later.

I guess my first goal Should be to assemble a roller. Frame, springer, rims, and tires.

Here are my first big questions:
1- How do I install the neck cups and bearings? Do I need a tool or can I make something out of threaded rod with aluminum pressing plugs? Do I use Lock tite? Do I just lube the bearings with wheel bearing grease or do I need something special?

2- How do I figure the trail? The frame is 30 deg. 0 stretch. I assume Im going to need a stock length springer. For dna its 22". Ill use 16 or 19 inch tires front and back. What ever size fits the fender best and doesnt look funny. Do I need the stock length dna? This Is where I really need some help. I dont know where to start with it.

[UKLee]

sounds like a man with a plan. Difficult to add anything to what's already been said really. The bike in the pic though I think must be a Sucker Punch Sally as SPS comes up when you hover over it. I'm planning my first build at the grand old age of 39 so you're way ahead of me. I got my wheels, front end, motor and the frame is being built as we speak. Best of luck to you.

[HDFACTORYCERTIF]

Like old school guitars?

http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ecaster001.jpg

[Mr Scary]

Very Nice Don....

[ericf07c]

I would run a 4" under DNA springer on the frame you are looking at.... at the very most a 2" under.

http://clubchopper.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83897
here is my thread I am running a 4" under and I actually would have liked it smaller but that is the smallest DNA makes so I flipped my rockers.

[Captain America]

I have that frame with a 2 under DNA and it works great with a 21" front tire. 4 under wouldn't work for me, I run a front fender and clearance for the fender would have been a problem let alone ground clearance. A stock length front end will be OK with a 16" front tire. As for your two questions...
1. Just draw the races in like you said and pack the bearings with a good wheel bearing grease, loctite on the races in unnecessary.
2. Trail is not going to be an issue for you with that frame/tire/springer combo. If you want to measure it here's Scooters trail calculator page...

http://www.scootersperformance.com/t...ake_trail.html

[Neo Dutch]

All sounds good bar the DNA. Dump that for a 41mm tele's.

[ericf07c]

I forgot you said you were running a 16" wheel up front in that case captain is right a stock length springer is probably about right....

edit: you asked about KC International, they are a great company I have used them several times and never had a problem. They get good pricing on Krafttech but I would also give John at Scooters a call, he is an active member on the forum and gets the same pricing on Krafttech products I believe (remember to add shipping to the prices on KC Internaitonals website)

[cntrhub]

Bottom insert is first question? Do I need a stopper or will my front end have fork stops like a dutch front end replica 45" springer to tag a frame rail?

Second is have dad or you-torch the neck so the inserts can be hammered in with a 2x4. Those bearing carriers are soft china junk so use or destroy the 2x4 so you salvage the finish. Attempt a bare tap on the carrier... I told you so!

The trick is to freeze the carrier, torch the neck, hammer the cap straight in, no angle smacks or you lose time on the shrink. Tape the bearing carriers when painting. Do not pound them out again. You might weaken or loose the tight fit integrity of the first install at the neck.

[coolcat2002]

I think you're better off getting a used Sucker Punch or Flyrite and then modifying it.

I bought my Titan and it came with a DNA springer. Man that thing sucks. I guess I've been spoiled with the R1 front suspension. You want a -2 or a -4 to get the frame parallel to the ground for 21" wheel.
I installed my cups using a deadblow hammer & a long 1/2" threaded rod from Home Depot and used a large socket nut that happen to fit/ to bang in the races. I used wheel bearing grease but the stuff I've seen is this light blue colored grease I dunno the brand.

You can go tubeless with spokes but if I were to do it over again I'd get forged wheels.
I had to put an inner tube in my cheap cast wheels they were so porous.

Riding rigid with at 3" springs (not the V-twin torsion crap) and a thick cushion seat actually isn't too bad. I wouldn't go less if you have a bad back.

Motogadget has some really cool stuff for wiring and instruments.

Last thing, I dunno about that 5x9 shed. Guys here convinced me to bring it into the living room where it's climate controled, a centerpiece that ties the room together. You're artistic juices flow a lot better when you have the perfect workspace.

[dirty d]

dont beat your bearing cups in, just draw em in with an allthread and a couple thick flat steel pieces . there is also a tool made for the job. great selection on parts. the kraftech frame is one tough sucka. the only thing is the dna springer man. im sure they work and all but to me, and this is just my personal opinion here. they look blocky and cheap and make an otherwise great bike look unfinished and cheap. good luck on your build and welcome to the site . looking forward to seeing some pics. oh one last thing. if you want the vintage fat look for your tires the avon mk II in a 16x5 is just the ticket. !!