Metric Wiring made EASY!!!!!!

SJ Bikesaws · #1 (**permalink**) 08-09-2010, 02:01 PM

I notice allot of people have trouble when it comes to wiring up their rice chops. XS and CB diagrams are readily available on the web but other bikes are a complete mystery to most. Here are a few of the diagrams I have made up for weird shit here and their.

This one is for a Suzuki GS1100, it will probably work on a few other suzuki 4 banger models too:
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These are what I drew up for my CB360 project. This shows how to wire up your points. It also shows how to wire up a 2 diode system that is found on all early honda twins (CB-CL-SL 350, 450, 200, 360, 500T, etc.):

I drew these up for a Honda VT500, but they will also work for all of the early VT series (500, 700, 750) and the early VF series (V30, V45, V65) bikes:

I am also encouraging others to share any diagrams they may have here.

SJ Bikesaws · #2 (**permalink**) 08-09-2010, 02:11 PM

These were done by other folks of more commonly chopped rice:

CB750 SOHC points motor (probably all of the early single cam honda fours)

Electronic XS650

SJ Bikesaws · #3 (**permalink**) 08-09-2010, 02:58 PM

I have known folks who have successfully wire up bikes and still didn't know what was going on and why. Understanding how the components function can also help you to wire your bike.

**CDI ignition-- Is a very simple circuit. You have magnetic crank triggers, coils, and a CDI box. The triggers are operated magnetically when the crank or cam rolls around, this is used to tell the CDI where the motor timing is. The coils store energy until they are told to fire. When the CDI senses the triggers activated, it tells the proper coil to discharge.

Most twins and four cylinders use two trigger coils, on most four cylinders, two of the cylinders will fire at the same time. The cylinders will either be in sync or 180 cam degrees out of phase of each other and riding a dead spark to each cylinder every other time.

**Alternator -- Most of the bikes being chopped these days have three diode wire alternators. Each of the diode wires produce alternating voltage (AC) as the alternator spins. I have seen the AC voltage as high as 45 volts from each wire.

Some of the early twins from Honda and Kawasaki only used 2 diode systems. Even though there are three wires coming from the alternator, one would be a full charge wire, one a 2/3 charge, and one a 1/3 charge. On these systems you tie off the 1/3 and 2/3 diode wires together. In the early days the activation of full charge was controlled through the headlight switch. If you ran the headlight on all of the time you would eventually choke out the battery. I still cant figure out why they ever thought this was a good idea.

Regulator -- This is just a grounding device, once you start pushing over 14.5 volts at the battery, the regulator will ground the excess voltage.

Rectifier -- This box contains the diodes. A diode is a one way valve for voltage, this converts the incoming AC voltage into direct current (DC) voltage.

Regulator/Rectifier -- This system is the same as the separate component system, only they shoved it all into one box. There are pros and cons to this. The Pro being that it mounts away tighter, the con being that testing and replacing the components can be tougher and more expensive.

******Now that you understand what is going on, you might have figured out that you CAN mix and match these devices from different makes and models as long as you find the diagrams on both. Different CDI's might have different advance curves but the differences are very minimal if at all noticeable. Different charging systems may put out better amperage, but since I don't build baggers with light shows I have never had a problem with this. I have cross bread components from all sorts of makes and models with success. I started doing this back before ebay and the internet when a dead charging system or dead ignition system meant death to the bike and even the dealers would just shrug their shoulders. Once I figured out you can do this I started saving every known good CDI, Regulator, and Rectifier I came across.

SJ Bikesaws · #4 (**permalink**) 04-04-2011, 02:52 PM

Well I learned something new this weekend working on my friends xs400 chop. There were a few extra wires coming from the lower end. The first plug had the three white diode wires, the second had a yellow (oil pressure), green (neutral light), and a black and a blue (???). I didn't figure out that it was an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet until I pulled the alternator apart because it wouldn't charge. Hooked up the magnet to a battery while it was out and a screwdriver stuck so I slapped it back together and it charged. I have never run into an alternator like this on a bike, there might be a few more bikes with this style of alternator out there. I also have the ignition diagram around here somewhere, I will put it up when I find it.

dirty d · #5 (**permalink**) 04-22-2011, 09:32 PM

nice, my daughters xs 400 isnt chargin maybe this will help thanks !!

SJ Bikesaws · #6 (**permalink**) 04-23-2011, 09:56 AM

Let me know how it turns out DD.

Well I drug a goldwing home last week. Here is what I came up with for that one, pretty simple.
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dirty d · #7 (**permalink**) 04-24-2011, 07:24 AM

mmm cant shake it out , ive got to go back through and see if im not doing something right on the cdi wiring and the chargin system, if ya got an xs 400 set up let me know brotha

SJ Bikesaws · #8 (**permalink**) 04-25-2011, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirty d

mmm cant shake it out , ive got to go back through and see if im not doing something right on the cdi wiring and the chargin system, if ya got an xs 400 set up let me know brotha

I do have one, but I scratched it out on paper. It is bound to turn up around here somewhere. When I find it I will draw it up on the puter and stick it here.

dirty d · #9 (**permalink**) 04-25-2011, 08:47 AM

right on man, I can dig that thanks !!

SJ Bikesaws · #10 (**permalink**) 11-08-2011, 08:38 AM

Since I now know it works from testing:runnin 001.AVI - YouTube

I replaced the Honda ignitors (with a going rate of about $125 a pop)

with a pair of these (with a going rate of about $15 a pop)

The chevrolet modules will also replace the ignitors in the Cb650, CB750 twin cams, CB900, and CB1100 (marked OKI MPS-200). Pretty much any Honda with mechanical advance and electronic ignition. They won't work in systems with electronic advance. Its nice to know if you burn a module you can pick one up cheap at any auto parts store and be back on the road. I also mounted them tight to a big chunk of aluminum so the heat sinks can cool. The stock ignitors needed a ballast resistor so they wouldn't burn up, the chevy modules don't.

Here is a quicky diagram I drew up on how to wire in the chevy 4 pin modules.

RyanRogers · #11 (**permalink**) 01-03-2012, 04:23 PM

I get paid friday and am trying to get my Maxim running. Im unsure if it has electrial advance or not? The Chevy idea is great! Anyone have a diagram for my scoot?

SJ Bikesaws · #12 (**permalink**) 01-10-2012, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanRogers

I get paid friday and am trying to get my Maxim running. Im unsure if it has electrial advance or not? The Chevy idea is great! Anyone have a diagram for my scoot?

Yes, the CDI does control advance on those so the chevy modules won't work.

Road Rash · #13 (**permalink**) 01-19-2012, 10:11 PM

Honda Shadow VLX 600

sneeyatch · #14 (**permalink**) 01-20-2012, 02:09 PM

Hey guys - new to the site, been lurking for a while. I'm getting myself into a '78 KZ400 A2 bobber project and the guy that owned it before me gutted the wiring to his needs. I'm having a hard time getting info on the '78 A2, but can find info on the other '78 models. Anyone know if I would be OK referencing the other model's wiring diagrams? Better yet - anyone have an actual A2 wiring diagram they'd be willing to share?

Thanks for any help!

SJ Bikesaws · #15 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sneeyatch

Hey guys - new to the site, been lurking for a while. I'm getting myself into a '78 KZ400 A2 bobber project and the guy that owned it before me gutted the wiring to his needs. I'm having a hard time getting info on the '78 A2, but can find info on the other '78 models. Anyone know if I would be OK referencing the other model's wiring diagrams? Better yet - anyone have an actual A2 wiring diagram they'd be willing to share?

Thanks for any help!

Its pretty simple really. The dude at Oregon Motorcycle parts has diagrams incorporating his regulator. I put one on one of my bikes and I am pretty happy with it. But if you want to use a factory reg and rect setup.

There seems to be a split in 78 if it has a two or three diode alternator. If it is a 2 diode system, the charging diagram for the CB360 is the same, if it is a three diode system then the diagram for the VT500 above is the same. It is a points bike, just wire the points like the CB360 diagram above.