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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2014, 10:30 PM
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Cant wait to see it
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2014, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidr View Post
Cant wait to see it
The frame was made at Cycle One Manufacturing.
The frame is at the powder coaters right now.

Last edited by donald branscom; 09-19-2015 at 03:28 PM..
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2014, 02:33 PM
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While the frame is at the powder coaters I am painting my gas tank and rear fender.
I am on the second coat of color and it looks like it may need a third coat.
Darn it. Oh well.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2014, 05:11 PM
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I picked up the frame today after the powder coating was finished.
I might be able to get the engine mounted into the frame weather permitting.
I will post a pic as soon as that gets done. Next day or so.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2014, 10:53 AM
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Photos of frame.
Powder coating done by Custom Coatings of Ukiah Ca.,.
Good workmanship. Nice people. Attention to details.

First photo of 4 photos.

It pays to round all sharp edges for powder coating.


This photo shows the compartment for all of the electrics.

Last edited by donald branscom; 09-25-2014 at 11:14 AM..
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2014, 11:20 AM
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Good looking frame. If i ever get to painting my bikes, the frames definitely will be black. I guess gloss black.

Keep' em pics coming
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SORRY FOR THE UPPER CASE. I AIN'T YELLING. I JUST MAKE TOO MANY TYPOS IN THE LOWER.

113"s&s, Walz softail 2000/2012 prostreet
96"s&s, Daytec dyna/ softail hybrid, 2010 chopper
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2014, 01:56 PM
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The engine in the frame.
Rigid frame with Yamaha 1700 V twin engine.
It is a Cycle One Manufactured frame.

Last edited by donald branscom; 09-19-2015 at 03:29 PM..
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2014, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEINBVG View Post
Good looking frame. If i ever get to painting my bikes, the frames definitely will be black. I guess gloss black.

Keep' em pics coming
The thing about BLACK frames that I like is that it helps to hide wires.
I do not like drilling holes in a frame for wires.
The holes let in air and then the corrosion process can start.
And if you have a hole in a tube for wires then it may need a drain hole for water to escape. That is another source to help the corrosion process.
BLACK makes the frame look smaller.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2014, 05:02 PM
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Todays work... Friday Sept. 26th 2012.

I got the engine bolted into the frame and made sure to add shims so that no engine mount flanges were under stress.

I installed the transfer gearbox/oil tank.
Reinstalled the oil filter housing casting,and new filter.
I installed the bearing cups into the steering head of the frame.
They were really tight to fit.
I should have put them in the freezer overnight.
I installed the front forks into the frame.


This box end wrench is essential to tighten the steering head nuts
especially if the risers are in the way. The wrench is about 2 feet in length. It just barely fits the length of my tool box drawer. LOL..lol

Transfer gearbox and sprocket line up perfectly for a 5 inch HD wheel with 180mm Tire.
If you went to a 240 tire and wider 8 inch wheel, then a special sprocket hub would be needed for the left side. Same for the right side too .
The problem with that idea is making a hub with the correct splines for the Yamaha engine.
Only one way out of that is to use a jack shaft arrangement custom made.

Last edited by donald branscom; 09-26-2014 at 05:22 PM..
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2014, 10:22 PM
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That is really lookin good! Love the clean lines and the black and chrome.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadDawg View Post
That is really lookin good! Love the clean lines and the black and chrome.
This is my 4th build.
I sold the others at a low price so I could keep building and getting closer and closer to the look I want. Once you choose a frame you are committed to a certain look. You just hope it can look the way you want.
I also built one of the bikes from the frame up. Same problems though, getting the final result to match the fantasy.

This build is really going the way I want so far.
I am working on the wiring now and I am using the stock wiring harness and just trying to keep it all plug and play as much as possible.
That way when I am not around anymore or do not own the bike that another person will be able to understand the wiring and not butcher it up.
The tail lights and signals always involve splicing ,soldering and shrink wrap.
That is just the way it is.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:44 AM
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Looks great so far. Looking forward to seeing the finished bike and how it sits.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2014, 08:32 PM
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There are good days of a build and tough days too.
Today I was tearing out my hair.

I thought it was a nice Sunday afternoon and I was going to put the front wheel
on the bike.
Everything went south .

I went to install the brake rotor on the wheel and I used grade
8 hex bolts with Nylock nuts. The rotor bolts to a flange on the hub.
Later I saw that the hex bolts protruded out just a little too far and were rubbing on the brake caliper. I will have to back to using the button head bolts that sit down lower in those recessed holes.

I got the wheel in position, and the axle in, but I could not get the wheel centered in the forks without the brake disc getting too close to rubbing on the rocker bolts.
I modified some spacers etc.,. but I was 1/8 from getting the front wheel from getting centered in the forks.

I tried every trick. Thinner washers etc.,.

I checked my records to see if I had bought the wrong front wheel.
NOPE....the ad said that the wheel was compatible with my DNA front forks..
The speedometer drive was incorrect too. Cheeeeeessssshhhh!!!!!

I decided to start all over tomorrow.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2014, 11:49 PM
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I was reading online that other builders were having the same problem.
DNA front springers and steel hub, 21 inch front wheel for wide glides.

It could be solved if the companies making the wheels would move the rotor flange
just 1/4 inch closer to the wheel center.

Then narrow forks like the DNA Springer would be able to bring the
caliper into adjustment and have no interference.

Or conversely DNA could make the forks 1/4 inch wider to accommodate more wheels.
It is easy to add spacers but if there is no space you are at a dead end.

Last edited by donald branscom; 09-29-2014 at 07:55 AM..
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:36 PM
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In about 2 hours or so I can post a solution the getting that wide glide steel hub front wheel to line up centered within 1/16 inch of center of the DNA springer front forks.

That is the best I can do, but to me that is acceptable.
I will show the photo how to .

I am almost there.
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