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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2007, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision
Yea but wouldn't it be the copper that would be the one to corrode? Ideally there is some way to isolate them...(maybe a thin layer of epoxy)..but admittedly I dont have it figured out yet or I would be out doing it right now.
The brass on the tank and all the other brass parts on my bike are/will be powder coated clear, which I hope seals the part from corrosion.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2007, 07:13 PM
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That's really helpful. Will print out for future reference. I'm sure I'll make a lot of scrap.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 01:31 PM
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well after seeing Markee's scoot on the Cho of the Month, i started to read his build post and thus came to this thread.

now i am stoked - i had half-assed cut up a tank and had no idea what the hell to do to try to get it as i wanted it. this thread really helps with some ideas and pointers. just wanted to say thanks for the info.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2007, 02:23 PM
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I still need to do the last update on the thread so people can see the final product. I have a few more tank shots to upload.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 07:54 PM
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Markee,

Upload, upload, upload!!! Haha!

I can't tell you how much I appreciate you posting this thread. I just stopped by one of the local shops here in town to talk with them about building me a tank and they started spouting out numbers like $1200 & $1500 to "custom" modify a peanut tank. Needless to say I left just a little bummed! Well, after seeing your "how to" I see no reason I can't mess around with some metal and do it myself!! Anyway... thanks!
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2007, 08:51 PM
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Markee,
Did you mention somewhere in the build thread how you did the "etching" on the brass strap on the tank or is that paint?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2007, 10:46 AM
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looks more like subpar grinding to me...
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2007, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poop
looks more like subpar grinding to me...
GRINDING!! Should be using a 100 grit 4 inch flapwheel perferably the blue zirconium type, not a grinder on a gas tank. the ginder will put marks in a piece of 16 ga. that could go 1/3-1/2 the total depth of the metal.

Just a suggestion.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2007, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donald branscom
GRINDING!! Should be using a 100 grit 4 inch flapwheel perferably the blue zirconium type, not a grinder on a gas tank. the ginder will put marks in a piece of 16 ga. that could go 1/3-1/2 the total depth of the metal.

Just a suggestion.
and probably a good suggestion, too. thanks for the advice, db.

it was just a little inside joke, probably wasn't appropriate for this thread anyway. not that i'm ever too concerned with that...

i think we were discussing more the work he did on that brass strip on the centerline of the tank. to call it grinding is a bit absurd, i agree!
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2007, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMikeSimpson
Markee,
Did you mention somewhere in the build thread how you did the "etching" on the brass strap on the tank or is that paint?
Its "engraved" or whatever the pros want to call it. You have to watch your terms, because they will tell you its "grinding" and then kill you.

I used a dremel/rotory tool with diamond tip bits and other carbide bits. It has a black inlay and a clear powdercoat finish.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2007, 05:24 AM
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What did you use for the inlay? Paint, enamel, etc.?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2007, 07:27 AM
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Sure looks good, great detail.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2007, 08:22 AM
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High temp header paint so it would with stand the powdercoat. If the part is left raw like most aluminum, i've heard of some using just black enamel.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 07:11 AM
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Question?

This is a very good tutorial and the finished product looks great. I do have a question though.
1. Why didn't you inlay the brass into the shell and drill out the filler hole before you mounted the tunnel to the shell? The reason I ask, is if you would have done this first, then drilled the filler neck hole you wouldn't have gotten shavings inside the tank?
Also, if you would have mounted the tunnel to the frame and installed the petcock bung first, before welding it to the shell, you could have avoided getting any metal shavings inside the tank from the mount cut-out and the petcock hole.

Once these things are done, then you clean the shell and the tunnel and weld them together.


Very Very good thread. I enjoyed reading it and seeing other peoples thoughts about building tanks and working with sheet metal.

-JC
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 09:58 AM
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I wasn't sure if I could even get the thin material worked into a tank. No need to cut a filler hole if its not going to work out. But I do see your point.

Appreciate your input

Last edited by Markee; 10-22-2007 at 10:00 AM..
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