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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2006, 12:07 PM
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good job on tank Markee !!
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2006, 05:57 PM
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Below are the tools and parts needed to get the tank mounted and the gas to the motor.

Parts:
-Mounting straps and hardware.
-4 Mounting Bungs
-2 Cross over bungs

Tools:
-Drill
-Pilot bit
-Step Bit
-Center punch
-Degree square
-Marker



First you position the straps on the tank as you see fit. I wanted to mount the bottom strap as close as I could to the end. Because my tank narrows, the strap will need to be cut down and in the end be shorter than the top.

Once you are satisfied with the positon, do a ruff trace. You can now start to do some measurements to make sure your straps are on center and square with the backbone.

Then mark where your holes will be for the straps. Center punch on your mark, pre-drill with you pilot bit and chuck up the step bit and drill until you step up to the correct diameter of the bung "neck".

When all your holes are cut, you are ready to drop those mounting bungs in and weld.

For my petcock opening, i'm using two openings which are actually cross over bungs. These I mounted as close to the bottom as I could. They will be used for dual petcocks or dual outlet into one.

Moving on to cut the straps to fit my application which is a 1.5 backbone.

I take a sample of my backbone and place it in the tunnel. This will let me know where to mark and cut my straps. I do this for the top and bottom.



Once the straps are cut, I install the gromets and hardware to do a test fit. All done for the mounting until the build progress further.



Now you would normally want to wait until all the welding is done to do a presure test, but I couldn't wait. I fell confident that I can weld in my filler bung with out holes. But the rest of the tank had been a real challange to weld because of the thickness.

I capped off my left side petcock opening and installed a air fitting contraption on the right side to presurise my tank. Used teflon tape on all the fittings. DO NOT STOP READING!



Next I built another goofy ass contraption to regulate the air presure going in. DO NOT EXCEED MORE THAN 10psi. I only did 5-8. If you presurise to much, you could warp your tank. I've learned that lesson from someone else on this forum.



Now dunk that sucker in some water and start searching for air bubbles. You know, the same way you fixed your bike tubes as a kid.

Whipe down and mark areas to be fixed.

I ended up doing this about 3 times, the 3rd time yielded no leaks.

Moving on to the next challenge. Remember the strap that filled the gap between the two panels?



I need to do something better than this. This doesn't look bad at all, but I have a idea.

The idea and challenge is to get this piece of 3/16 thick 2.5x 36in piece of brass to fit nice and flush with the tops of the round bar.



I'll cover that on the next update.

Last edited by Markee; 04-21-2006 at 06:01 PM..
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2006, 06:30 PM
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Lookin great Markee.

Now I have to try this. LOL
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2006, 12:24 PM
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markee, you're kicking ass, man! good job.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2006, 12:27 PM
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This is quickly becoming a work of art!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2006, 10:08 AM
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Ok, here we go. Time to get this piece of brass to fit in between the tank ribs.

I take some construction paper, trace, cut, trim, etc.. to get it fitting nice between the ribs.



I trace the template onto the brass plate and cut out with my Jig saw. Bevel the edges so the piece will fit snug and flush with the middle/top of the rib, not the sides.

Now the fun part, bending this sucker to fit the tank. The wood panel template really helped to accomplish this.

I screwed the brass into one end of the template so its sticking straight in the air. Set up the oxy/acc torch and went to work.

Note: Wood forms/templates work great. I soaked with water first to help with fire. It still cault on fire a couple times but I was very pleased how the wood held up.

Bent like butter


To mount, I welded in some stainless bolts on the front and back, finished with brass wing nuts.



The tunnel opening was then opened up with my air dremel.

Time to cut the opening for my filler neck (pictured above). I really wanted to pick the position of the neck when the tank was mocked on the frame. With a tank this small, you want as much gas as possible, so the neck needs to be at the highest point on the tank. The frame has not arrived yet, so I gambled.

Picked a spot, measured center and chucked in the hole saw that matched the outside diameter of my filler bung.

The traditional hole saw with center pilot arbor wanted to bite bad, so I ran the drill backwards until a slight groove was formed. Started to cut very well.



The bung fits perfect.

Next update includes gas cap mod to accept my one off spinner and also some photos of the finished tank mocked up on my CFL (which I have now, the tutorial is real time now.)

Last edited by Markee; 04-23-2006 at 10:12 AM..
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2006, 10:13 AM
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Thank God you didnt burn the deck down. LOL
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2006, 10:18 AM
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Haha, its a wooden access ramp at the back of the shop. I put it through hell.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2006, 09:29 PM
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Wow this thread kicks ass. Did you finish it yet??
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:54 PM
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I found these in his gallery.



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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2006, 04:36 AM
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Great thread. I'm going to be printing this one out and hanging onto it for future reference.

Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2006, 05:31 AM
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This is without a doubt, one of the best threads, ever on this forum. Great stuff.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2006, 06:47 AM
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Thanks for the comments dudes.

The tank is pretty much finished. Need to seal the inside and skim coat/mold and prime.

I think i'm going to do some engraving on the brass strap. Haven't decided yet.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2006, 02:54 PM
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Killer thread Markee...keep us posted as it progresses!
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2006, 06:21 PM
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Markee,
I am new here and I am impressed with your skill.
Think about just a polish and clearcoat on the plain steel.
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